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How to sew handmade leather goods and how to deal with the edges of leather goods?
Let me tell you about the production process!
1, design the template first! This template is the designed cardboard! (Not in this picture)
2, then cut the dough and wallet Lippi! (There is no diagram of this process)
3. Carve leather on the dough (by hand or laser). Without this picture)
4. According to the design features, Lippi's zipper and Lippi's part are sewn first.
5, the dough and Lippi are punched together, and the number of holes is correct for the stitching of the dough and Lippi!
6. After sewing, the edge of the leather bag has been treated, usually by grinding and gluing, so that you won't see the hair on the edge of the leather! It is also a kind of protection for leather!
You can see two pictures in the picture, showing that the leather edge is a little wet! That's glue)
7. Finish leather products, coloring and polishing (waxing).
The leather surface of this wallet is hard skin graft, which is easy to carve and color!
You can also make some ordinary chrome leather, which is soft, so you can't carve it! Chrome leather can be made like cloth! )
Manufacturing technology of leather products
(A) the production process of leather products
(2) Conventional technology and special technology
Craft refers to all kinds of crafts, methods and technologies in the production of leather goods, which is an important link to reflect the quality and grade of a product. Mainly including material selection and cutting technology; Techniques and data such as shovel skin thickness, width and inclination; Needle shape, number of stitches, stitch distance, margin, number of stitches, thread color, thread quality, and techniques and data of open seam, hidden seam and semi-open seam in sewing; Selection of auxiliary materials, processing technology and data; Assembly process, folding, wrapping, oil edge, glue, bonding process and data; Brand, silk screen printing, automobile decorative thread, computer embroidery, punching, threading, beading, nailing and other decorative technologies and data, and so on.
The following are the important processes of leather design and production, most of which are traditional processes, and the special processes are mainly completed with the help of special equipment or special production processes. For example, semi-slit technology, calendering and die setting or large-area embossing technology, shoe pressing technology and so on. In addition, there are many other processes in the production and assembly process, which are also the technologies that manual workers must master in each process. For salespeople, they only need to have a certain degree of understanding of various processes in actual work, which can be used as reference materials to assist product sales.
Wrapping: Leather bone, core, spring or steel wire inner core, artificial material edge bone and rubber bone without wrapping material with various side bones, which are used to set off or enhance the opening effect of handbags.
Flat sewing: refers to a process of connecting single-layer or multi-layer overlapping parts by flat sewing machine, which is the most widely used process in leather sewing, and is suitable for connecting parts in the opposite plane of leather products or sewing decorative lines.
Internal seam: also known as hidden seam or buried bag, it is a traditional process of stitching the edges of two parts face to face and turning them over, so that people can see part of the seam but not the stitch. There are many methods for the initial manual sewing and industrial flat sewing machine or high head sewing, which are suitable for the connection of internal and external parts and the manufacture of soft handbags.
Open seam: also known as outer seam, refers to a traditional process of sewing the inner layers of two connected parts so that the surface line and bottom line can be seen. There are also two ways of hand sewing and high head sewing, which are suitable for the final sewing process of the mouth and horizontal head three-dimensional structure of soft and shaped handbags.
Edge stitching: It is a decorative traditional process of stitching the edge of one part with the upper bone, and then stitching it with the edge of another related part. It is suitable for the design and manufacture of the middle lattice structure of soft-packed handbags or special-shaped handbags.
Edge-wrapping and seam-opening: A decorative edge bone is sandwiched between two oil edges or hemmed edges, which is made by seam-opening technology, and is suitable for the design and manufacture of various packaging products.
Open hemming: it is a decorative traditional process of sewing the edge of plane parts or the outline of three-dimensional structure with a certain width of leather strips (or artificial leather strips, cloth strips, etc.). ). There are loose hemming, single-sided hemming, double-bread hemming, various reverse hemming and nylon belt inner hemming. The edge of the flat part is sewn with a flat sewing machine, and the edge of the three-dimensional structure is sewn with a high-end car, which is suitable for the design and manufacture of all leather products.
Oil edge: also known as loose edge, it is a decorative traditional process of grinding the edge of leather products or the attached three-dimensional outline and rolling it with a layer of leather edge oil. The methods of oil edge can be divided into two kinds: heavy oil method with different treatment processes and thin oil method with only improved edge color. Thick oil method is suitable for processing crisp high-grade leather products, which requires smooth and full edges; Thin oil method is common for both soft and hard leather, but rough fibers and seams can be seen on its edge, which is mostly used for the processing of leisure handbags.
Flanging: the traditional process of shoveling off the edges of product parts or directly coating glue (sticking double-sided tape) on the edges of interlining and artificial materials, and then folding them into the inner layer. Suitable for processing all kinds of artificial leather packaging materials and some leather products.
Semi-slit: it is a fashionable technology to sew with a special column car or rocking car after all the components of different levels are pasted into a solid structure. This technology is suitable for sewing bag bottom and three-dimensional closed leather, and it can't be turned over, which has the three-dimensional technical effect of only looking at the surface line and not the bottom line. In addition, the sewing machine sews the parts on the same horizontal plane, but after assembly, only the surface line can be seen, but the bottom line can not be seen. The difference between them is that flat sewing machine is suitable for plane sewing, while column sewing machine and pendulum sewing machine are suitable for three-dimensional sewing.
Common equipment for leather goods: cutting machine (die cutting machine), leather shovel, glue machine, folding machine, sewing machine, synchronous machine, high-grade car, grinder, nailing machine, etc.
Special equipment: train, calender, dryer, etc.
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