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Xiamen: Hecuo seafood is delicious.

Hecuo seafood mei

Xue Jiang

An accidental opportunity to go to Xiamen on business. Because I went there two years ago, I thought I had experience. This time it's just a revisit to the old place. It won't be anything special. When the plane stopped and the passengers got off at the berth, it was completely dark. When we reached the exit, someone naturally answered. Although a car is a bit crowded, it is not too crowded for three people to sit in the back. When we got on the bus, Xiao Huang, who picked us up, said to eat first and then go to the residence. As the saying goes, the decision is up to the guests. In this case, we have no reason to disagree. After a while, we came to a "Lei Yu Men Cuisine" shop. Although it is dark, I can't see around clearly, but by feeling, this hotel should be by the sea. As soon as you enter the door, there are all kinds of seafood, including fish, crabs, shrimps and shellfish, all of which are placed in bubbling glass equipment. This meal is naturally inseparable from seafood. As diners from Beijing, we appreciate the freshness and delicacy of seafood, and the host is very happy.

On the way to their place of residence, two colleagues said that when they came to Xiamen last time, there was a seafood stall at the seaside of a dock, which was just fished out by fishermen from the sea. That's the freshest seafood, and it can be processed next to it. Xiao Huang may not have been to this place, and his tone is not sure where it is. Anyway, we decided to go to this seaside to buy the freshest and freshest seafood the next morning. I have nothing to say all night. The next morning, two colleagues got up early and went for a walk. When I came back, I said I didn't know where "He Cuo" was. Because they broke into houses in the morning. Xiao Huang arrived as scheduled, and we talked about what to do in the car.

It turns out that He CuO is He's settlement, similar to the northern place names "hejia village" and "he jia zhuang". Hecuo Village in Xiamen is located on the eastern coast of Xiamen Island, and there is also a Hecuo Village on Jinmen Island across the sea. Their ancestors moved to Xiamen and Kinmen more than 700 years ago. Although the two Hecuo villages are separated by a sea area more than 5,000 meters wide, they have always maintained close contact through "ships coming and going". Due to historical reasons, the two Hecuo villages cut off the contact of "ships coming and going". The shelling incident on both sides of the Taiwan Strait in the 1950s was also between these two Hecuo villages. Wanshun Building, which is already a dangerous building, has been preserved in Hecuo Village, Xiamen. The traces of shelling more than 50 years ago are still clearly visible and have been protected by Xiamen as a memorial site of artillery warfare. 1979 After the publication of the Letter to Taiwan Province Compatriots, He Cuo's life under the fear of bullets was changed, and he resumed the comfortable life of farming and fishing. Great changes have taken place in Hecuo village over the past 30 years of reform and opening up. The villagers have been divorced from farming and fishing, and only a few are still engaged in sea fishing. Now, the commercial operation center of Guanyin Mountain in Xiamen has sprung up in Hecuo Village. Guanyinshan Beach, which is more than 2 kilometers long, has become an important tourist attraction in Xiamen, and a national first-class international yacht center is under construction. At the same time, the desire of navigation and trade mentioned in the letter to compatriots in Taiwan Province Province more than 30 years ago has also been realized, and the exchanges between the two Hecuo villages have become close and frequent.

It's only ten minutes' walk to the seaside. As the fishing boat hasn't returned to the dock, we first went to a beach to see the sea. The beach here is wide and the sea is blue. Xiao Huang pointed to an island in the sea and told us that it was Golden Gate Island. Xiamen and Jinmen are separated by a strip of water, so close, but separated by so many years! After sighing, we found that there is a "Chinese Young Pioneers Song Square" and a "Chinese Young Pioneers Song Memorial Hall" next to it. Xiao Huang said that this is the pride of Xiamen and Hechuan people. During the 30 years from 1950s to the end of 1970s, Xiamen, as the frontier of coastal defense, experienced the "September 3rd" artillery battle of 1954, the "August 23rd" artillery battle of 1958, the anti-smuggling and long-term propaganda war of 1962. While building, Xiamen people are brave and fearless, and many heroes and groups have emerged, such as "Heroes' Eight Roads", "Ten Sisters in the Frontier", "Zhao Yiman Class", Hong Xiuzong, Hong and Ye Zhongyang, and are known as "Hero City". 196 1 year, Hecuo Primary School 13 The story of primary school students walking through the battle in the artillery battle was put on the screen and made into a feature film "Hero's Little Eight Roads". The film was shown all over the country and received a strong response. The Little Eight Roads of Heroes reflects the era when it stepped out of the predicament of natural disasters and became a hero worshipped by hundreds of millions of people. The theme song of the movie "We are the Successors of Capitalism" was confirmed as "Team Song of Chinese Young Pioneers" at the First Plenary Session of the Tenth Central Committee of the Communist Youth League in June 5438+0978+00.

A small fishing boat sailed back to the shore, and the dock was full of excitement, so we rushed there immediately. Ha, there are a dozen fishermen selling trophies here. The pot and bucket are full of live fish, and the bucket is full of live shrimp. Fish, shrimps and crabs are all alive and kicking, and they all jumped out accidentally. Xiao Huang is not from Xiamen. He is usually busy at work and has no experience in buying seafood. A colleague also grew up by the sea. The so-called sea is connected, and the method of identifying seafood is basically the same. As amateurs, we can only stand outside and watch. Colleagues who know seafood crowded into the circle, squatted by the bucket, caught a crab, weighed it and put it back, caught a fish and put it back, repeatedly, and talked to the seller from time to time. Let's have a look at this house and that booth. Wherever he goes, we will follow him. Many buyers nearby picked out plastic bags, weighed them on the scales, paid the money and left. From the back I left, I saw their satisfaction and joy. We watched almost a dozen booths, and finally the colleague said to eat this at noon. So, he ran to this house with 10 shrimp, weighed 2 Jin of fish in that house, picked 3 Jin of sea otter in the east, picked 8 crabs in the west, and soon several plastic bags gathered heavily. There are several small restaurants on the other side of the dock. We took several bags of seafood, so we finally decided to stay in this "fishing village". However, it was still early for lunch, and the enthusiastic boss led us to sit down, soaked in Tieguanyin and performed Kung Fu tea, which is rare in the north.

Kung fu tea attracts us, and seafood attracts us more. After drinking tea for a while, it was less than 1 1, so we moved to the table and waited for the processed seafood to serve. Seafood processing has certain procedures and takes a certain amount of time. Of course, the processing methods of seafood may vary from place to place. Our colleagues who know about seafood, while chatting, told the little brother in the shop what shrimp should do, what crab should do, whether the fish is steamed or braised, and so on. We don't care much about what to eat and how to eat. The first course is shrimp. Ah, do it. It's too fresh. One person and two shrimps will soon become half a plate of empty shells, and there is no greasy feeling at all. Jellyfish is the freshest. You can eat it when you peel it off. We chose "fried jellyfish", which actually means frying eggs with jellyfish. On the table, I saw that the sea otter was indeed the protagonist. If it is in Beijing and other places, I think it is the eggs that have taken the lead. The third way is crabs. Many famous writers have written about how to eat crabs, and I have also seen how famous writers such as Wang Meng and Malaqinfu eat crabs. I have been eating crabs for many years. I've never seen them before. Their taste is incomparable. Perhaps because of the environment and time, I think I have never eaten a crab seriously for so many years. I always feel that eating crabs is more troublesome, so I often break up and have a taste. Nowadays, crabs are not troublesome to eat, but fun to eat. I used to eat crabs, and my hands, mouth and food in front of me were all in a mess. Today it is completely different. After two vegetarian dishes are interspersed in the middle, it is steamed fish. The steamed fish at the finale is fresh and tender. When you put chopsticks on it, in a short time, only some residual thorns and fish soup are left on the plate. At this time, colleagues who know seafood said, let's have a bowl of white rice. The fish soup made from this rice is beautiful. Sure enough, everyone is full. With the encouragement of colleagues, everyone is full. However, although we are full, we don't feel burdensome or uncomfortable, but we feel beautiful and comfortable.

According to the reception over there, every meal should be in a different place, so that we can taste different flavors, which also reflects the host's attention to us. But we just don't appreciate it We only like this small shop by the sea and buy our own seafood to take away. It was the same at lunch the next day and the third day. On the third day, we had to catch a plane after lunch, so we arrived early. In the past three days, we found that the seafood in Hecuo was delicious but not greasy, and we really missed it when we left. This time I went to Xiamen, I had no other activities except doing business. The only activity was to get to know He Cuo and get to know He Cuo. I have been to Xiamen before, which is a kind of tourism. I walked around the scenic spot and left. This time I stayed in Hecuo for three days, which can be described as a fixed-point in-depth understanding.

When the plane hovered over Xiamen after take-off, we could see the whole picture of Xiamen from the window. We burped with a full stomach of seafood and carefully identified where it was. ...

(Written on 20 1 1 year 1 1 month)