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Milan Fashion Week has seven "best", who can make the list?

The heat of Milan Fashion Week has not dissipated because of the end of the competition.

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Milan Fashion Week has seven "best", who can make the list?

The heat of Milan Fashion Week has not dissipated because of the end of the competition.

Instead, people think back and forth about what happened in this week's program with a series of questions: What do miuccia prada and raf simons want to say this time? Why does Alessandro Michel have so many twins? In which play did paris hilton appear? What are the most memorable debuts of Fashion Week?

Faced with these problems, VOGUE quickly sorted out the seven "most" of Milan Fashion Week, and maybe you can find the answer from them.

Prada

Before the opening of the big show, the atmosphere of suspense was already coming, and the neon screen, like a torn irregular window, was an immersive performance space experience. The atmosphere of all this is thanks to director Nicholas Wendingfen and AMO Design Company.

Nicolas Windingfern directed films such as Running at the End of the Road and Desperate Driving. In his narrative language, gorgeous, violent, calm and depressing styles are intertwined, and a series of short films and exhibition spaces created by him and AMO with the theme of "original touch" truly reproduce his visual characteristics. The guests at the scene can witness the clips of the short film through the perspective holes cut around the program, which is like a kind of snooping, curiosity and panic banishing their sight.

The screen of Nicolas Windingfen's short film "Touch Crude Oil" and the immersive space of the program create a sense of suspense.

At the beginning of the drama, the real story was officially staged. Miuccia prada and raf simons, two "directors", expressed their fascination with traces of life with fashion. The folds inadvertently left by sitting and lying are emphasized and amplified. In their eyes, this is not an embarrassment brought by fashion, but a natural trace left by people in their lives. Miuccia prada explained: "This is a female life consciousness. Life and humanity make clothes-not superficial embellishment, but traces and marks of life. This idea of shaping clothes through human nature excites us. "

"The language of the show environment-the setting of tearing paper-echoes the fashion design. We like this feeling of fragility and wrong posture. This feeling and native state is exciting. Clothing carries the feeling of life-they are full of vitality. " Raf simons also expressed a similar view. Careful observation shows that these deliberate mistakes can be seen everywhere in our daily life, such as the folds of skirts, the gaps that are accidentally torn open, and the flat leather bags that have been pressed in the clothes for a long time, which are normal when busy.

The genius of miuccia prada and raf simons lies in that these details are full of ritual through visual creation. The hurried music makes people think about the story behind these "mistakes". The exaggerated long false eyelashes cover the eyes of the models and also hide the expression of emotions. Where did they come from and where are they going? The answer is different because everyone's life trajectory is different. Everything in the story is trying to guide a kind of thinking, rather than pointing to an objective result.

Fendi

Fendi, who just held Baguette's 25th anniversary show at New York Fashion Week half a month ago, returned to Milan this week to release the Spring/Summer 2023 collection. Faced with such a fast pace, Kim Jones, who has multiple responsibilities, also put forward his solution: "I have programmed the design." If I can link the autumn and winter series and the HD series with the concept of this conference, the brand display will be very meaningful, and there will be new series extensions on this basis. "

The style of this big show has thus become simple and clear. As you can see, not long ago, the modeling in high fashion shows became more practical. Light satin replaced heavy industry embroidery, and it showed a smart and elegant posture when walking. Whether it is a dress or a suit, the glossy fabric flows downstream along the model's body with its outstanding tailoring, and the smooth and comfortable daily dressing experience is from the body to the heart.

Of course, Jones didn't do it alone. Since taking office, he has been reviewing the fashion tone set by karl lagerfeld for Fendi around the Millennium, but now his interpretation is more modern and concise, and these just right colors are eye-catching and won't usurp the host's role. He knows very well that what he has done in Fendi is not to break the old and establish the new, but to protect the glorious history of this fashion house. Together with Silvia Venturini Fendi and Delfina Delettrez Fendi, we will work together to bring Fendi into the future.

Gucci

Alessandro Michele is worthy of every audience who watches the big show completely. Just when people thought that the 68 groups of shapes filed out announced the end of this big show, the overhead partition in the center of the show, a portrait taken by photographer Mark Pekmez, slowly rose, and the two sides of the show merged into one, and the excitement just began.

The model who was alone just now suddenly found the same "other half" as her and appeared hand in hand. The meaning of the program theme "Twinsburg" can also be fully explained: Twinsburg, Ohio, USA is called the city of twins, and the annual "Twins Festival" here attracts twins from all over the world to come to the party. From a more personal point of view, Michelle's life is also accompanied by this twin influence. His mother Gerarda and Juliane are twins, too. "They are twins as the ultimate symbol of their existence, and they are dressed the same. They are magical mirrors, one recreating the other. "

Having said that, Michele doesn't just want to use this sense of form to increase the stunt of the program. On the contrary, the similarity and difference between twins, personality and * * *, dislocation and difference are the key points he wants to express. When each pair of twins was born, this genetic similarity began to affect their lives. They were patterned to wear the same clothes and become each other's other selves.

And the social response to twins is also contradictory. We marvel at this high degree of similarity, but we can't help but explore their differences as individuals. This entanglement and dislocation does not affect the twins' self-identity, but after they have the ability of independent thinking, judgment and behavior, why do they continue to recreate another self in their lives with behaviors similar to "performance"?

What role does fashion play in the identity world of twins? Those neat uniforms and suits are all role settings endowed by society, while those seemingly gorgeous and romantic tulle and sequins have lost the right to be "beautiful alone" in the Gemini world, but they have produced1+1> 2. attract people's attention.

Guan Heguan, a twin model from China, participated in the fashion show.

"The same clothes exude a completely different temperament on seemingly the same body. In the final analysis, even in a series of reproduction and reproduction, the vitality of fashion will not hinder the most authentic self-expression of each individual. " Michelle gave an understanding from her life experience. "In fact, all twins have clearly realized from birth that they are not the center of the universe." And this sentence also reminds each of us that we think we are unique. Does the "authenticity" carried by fashion have to be different? Do we unconsciously expose our self-centered arrogance by showing off our personality? When a face similar to clothes appears not far away, how can a person's personality be revealed? Even the definition of personality was disintegrated and reconstructed in this show.

Versace

Donatella versace has always had the strongest catwalk lineup in Milan Fashion Week. This time, she invited Paris Hilton, one of the most important symbols of the Millennium pop culture, to give the finale performance.

The diamond chain mail dress brings people back to her birthday party 12 years ago. The pink shape of the whole body declares the Millennium fashion sovereignty, and the exquisite veil on the head also symbolizes the quiet change of identity.

Except this fluorescent Barbie powder tailored for Paris Hilton, the whole show was completely wrapped in electro-optic purple, and Donatella's design inspired by the dark gothic goddess was full of confusion and charm. "I have always admired the rebels. A confident, wise and somewhat queen-like woman, wearing leather clothes, rivets, washed jeans, chiffon or knitting, wearing a crown, boldly shows her fashion attitude. She is a strong, independent, beautiful and confident woman and a free and easy goddess. " She explained.

She dressed these glamorous Gothic queens in purple armor, and played a mix of various materials on the basis of dazzling colors, from electro-optic purple silk dresses to matte purple leather tube tops, as well as soft and blurred purple chiffon lace and irregularly cut fabric shawls. Almost all objects are intoxicated by this unique Gothic charm, which is dangerous, but even more irresistible. 20 1 1 donatella used tulip printing to awaken people's yearning for purple. After 12, Versace decided to bring purple back to the peak.

One of the biggest attractions of Milan Fashion Week is the first show of three major brand designers. Maximilian Davies, Marco de Vincenzo and Luigi Villa? Or their new role will be a topic of repeated discussion for some time to come.

Ferragamo

Maximilian Davis, who is only 27 years old, became the creative director of this brand for nearly a century in March this year, and transformed Ferragamo into a new image before the show. In an interview with Vogue, he once said that he was digging up brand documents to determine a new brand password. Now, a dazzling fashion image is undoubtedly becoming the focus of attention.

Maximilian Davis explained: "I intend to interpret Hollywood culture from a new perspective and pay tribute to the brand origin of Ferragamo. Show your leisure and sexy, think about sunset and sunrise. " Red is inseparable from the red carpet and Hollywood starlight, and it is also the core and starting point of the whole series. At the same time, Davis drew inspiration from the bright red high-heeled shoes designed by brand 1959 for Marilyn Monroe, and decorated the dress with star-like rhinestones.

In addition to the ceremonial red shape, the artist Rachel Harrison's "Sunset Series" has also become his creative source. Those gradual colors appear on the soft organza and poplin, showing a rich festive atmosphere, echoing the red sandstone arranged in the show. "Sandstone is closely related to Ferragamo, Hollywood and the ocean, and has an indissoluble bond with me. In Caribbean culture, the ocean is a place to stimulate thinking and feelings. I hope to interpret the meaning of the ocean to Caribbean culture from the perspective of Ferragamo. "

Etro

Marco de Vincenzo last blew up social media when he asked models to walk on outdoor shows with ice cream of the same color as the model. De Vincenzo was appointed as the creative director of Etro at the end of May, so the preparation time for the first show was very tight. "For me, this season is to express the potential of Etro and show the broader possibilities that have not yet been explored."

Compared with Etro's bohemian style and the continuation of Paisley printing, De Vincenzo's creativity is bolder. "I like the structure and compact materials, and I am not very familiar with the bohemian world; This doesn't mean that I can't interpret it in my way in the future, but now I am given this position to express my views. " He is very determined and confident to inject a new look with a personal style imprint into this old fashion house, but fortunately, this has not separated the brand history.

Like a gardener holding an encyclopedia of botany, he integrated the historical prints of flowers, trees, birds, animals, insects and fish into his own design, and presented modern and novel fashion elements such as cashmere, denim brocade, cotton shirts and satin tennis shirts by hand, so that Etro could really be integrated into everyone's wardrobe. This is what he said, "provide a variety of choices while taking care of actual needs."

Barry

Remember Villa Luigi? The name or is a bit difficult, but you must be familiar with the Rhude he founded. He once told the media: "When I founded RHUDE, it was largely because of my desire for luxury goods." Now, he finally got his wish and became the creative director of a classic luxury brand.

1992 was born in Manila Villa, Philippines? In other words, when I was a child, I immigrated to the United States and was deeply influenced by the local pop culture in Los Angeles. Therefore, in Bally's debut, which almost made his dream come true, he made the traditional leather craft into the epitome of memory-the high fashion style at the turn of the Millennium, "pursuing luxury and sexiness. It is about what I want to wear when I go out, what my friends want to wear when I go out, and what I think others want to wear when I go out. "

Excellent hollow leather, suede and colored snakeskin can be seen everywhere, conveying ambition and rebellion under orthodox fashion items. The elegant slim dress, black knitted dress, casual shirt and high slit miniskirt in the second half of the show vaguely remind people of tom ford's classic works in early 2000. Verase? Or undoubtedly want to revive those luxurious traditions, Bally's stage is enough for him to continue to cheer in the future.

Bottega Veneta

Walking into the Bottega Veneta show, the show equipment designed by artist Gaetano Pesce is eye-catching-the floor of the show cast with colored resin and 400 colored seats all stir the nerves of the guests. Yes, since Matthieu Blazy's stunning appearance in Bottega Veneta, everyone is expecting what new surprises he can provide.

"As a designer, I create original works, not standardized series." It turns out that the creation of Blazy and his team can also be called modern works of art. Let's review this release in reverse order. At the end of the big show, three dresses borrowed from Pesce's accessories adopted a brand-new technology. In the hand-woven fabric with tassels, they are as smart as feathers.

More details reflect the creative integration between Blazy and Pesce. Abstract prints and irregular tassels on the knitted dress shape the model into a moving sculpture, which blazy called "the process is very technical, but the result is full of emotion."

This happens to be a state that is generally pursued in artistic creation, and the experience is maximized in the process. No matter whether the result is shocking or silent, it is a tempered emotional expression, which has nothing to do with the purpose and result. Just like Kate Moss's flannel shirts and a series of leather suits and jeans need printing and dyeing 12 layers in order to achieve the plaid effect. Interestingly, Blazy and Pesce achieved a "two-way trip" in their thoughts and actions. The former's most everyday ready-to-wear is made according to the standards of art, while the latter is created according to emotional impulse-400 seats in the exhibition will be sold as commodities at the Miami Art Exhibition.

moschino

It is undeniable that Jeremy Scott's "noisy" Moschino always brings surprises to Fashion Week. This time, he let the new season fashion "swell" collectively, and swimming rings and life jackets were the main culprits.

"The cost of everything is rising: housing, food and life. So I incorporated inflation into the creative inspiration of this series. " He translated such a slightly serious and pessimistic social phenomenon in the form of four pairs, showing a playful effect. The first series of modeling starts with the neckline and skirt of the clothing, injects air into the balloon structure, and makes the iconic heart-shaped pattern in the brand history three-dimensional.

Then his focus began to turn to children's swimming rings and lifebuoys. "Sometimes we feel that we are drowning. But no matter what happens, we have to leave room for happiness, right? " Scott explained, "The more helpless the reality is, the more I want to find happiness in design." Of course, he not only brought happiness to himself, but also made us smile involuntarily with his rhythm.

Author: Shanlai

Editor: Yang Yi

Design: ice ice