Milan Fashion Week has seven "most", who can be on the list?

Milan Fashion Week has seven "best" events. Who can be on the list?

The popularity of Milan Fashion Week has not dissipated because of the end of the schedule.

on the contrary, people are thinking back and forth about what happened on the show this week with a series of doubts: what exactly are Miuccia Prada and Raf Simons trying to say this time? Why did Alessandro Michele get so many twins? Which show did Paris Hilton appear in? What are the most memorable first shows at Fashion Week?

Faced with these questions, VOGUE quickly sorted out seven "most" in Milan Fashion Week. Maybe you can find the answer from them.

Prada

Before the opening of the big show, a suspenseful atmosphere came to my face, with a neon screen, like an irregular window that was torn open, and an immersive show space experience, all of which was attributed to the director Nicolas Windingfern and AMO Design Office.

Nicolas Windingfern directed films such as "Running at the End of the Road" and "Desperate Driving". In his narrative language, gorgeous, violent, calm and depressing styles are intertwined, and a series of short films and show space created by him and AMO with the theme of "original touch" have truly reproduced his visual characteristics. The guests at the scene can witness the fragments of the short film from the perspective holes cut around the show, which is like a kind of snooping, and curiosity and panic banish their sight.

The short film "TOUCH OF CRUDE" of Nicolas Winding Refn and the immersive space of the show build a sense of suspense.

when the big show begins, the real story is officially staged. Miuccia Prada and Raf Simons, two "directors", express their fascination with the traces of life with fashion. The folds inadvertently left by sitting and lying are emphasized and magnified. In their eyes, this is not the embarrassment brought by fashion, but the traces naturally left by people in life. Miuccia Prada explained: "This is a kind of female life consciousness. Life and humanity make clothes-not superficial embellishment, but traces and imprints of life. This idea of shaping clothes by human nature excites us. "

"The language of show environment-the setting of torn paper-echoes the fashion design. We like this feeling of vulnerability and wrong posture. This feeling and native state are exciting. Clothing carries the feeling of life-they are full of vitality. " Raf Simons also responded with a similar view. On closer inspection, these deliberate mistakes can be seen everywhere in our daily life, such as the folds of skirts, the gouges where gaps are torn carelessly, and the flat leather bags that have been pressed in the clothes pile for a long time, all of which are normal in the busy time.

The genius of Miuccia Prada and Raf Simons is to make these details full of ritual through visual creation. The hurried music makes people think about the stories behind these "mistakes". The exaggerated long false eyelashes cover the eyes of the models and hide the expression of emotions. Where did they come from and where are they going? The answer is different because everyone's life trajectory is different. Everything in the story is trying to guide a kind of thinking, rather than pointing to an objective result.

Fendi

Fendi, who just held Baguette's 25th anniversary show at New York Fashion Week half a month ago, returned to Milan non-stop this week to release the Spring/Summer 223 collection. Faced with such a fast pace, Kim Jones, who has multiple responsibilities, also put forward his solution: "I have programmed the design. If I can connect the autumn and winter series and the high-definition series with the concept of this conference, the brand display will be very meaningful, and there will be new series extending on this basis."

As a result, the style of this big show has become simple and clear. You can see that not long ago, the modeling on the haute couture show has become more practical, and light satin has replaced heavy industry embroidery, showing a smart and elegant posture when walking. Whether it's a dress or a suit, the glossy fabric flows downstream along the model's body with its outstanding tailoring, and the smooth and comfortable daily dressing experience is from the body to the heart.

Of course, this is not the credit of Jones alone. Since he took office, he has been looking back on the fashion tone set by Karl Lagerfeld for Fendi around the Millennium, but now his interpretation is more modern and concise, and these just right colors are both eye-catching and won't upstage him. He knows very well that what he has done in Fendi is not to break new ground, but to protect the splendid history of this fashion house, and together with Silvia Venturini Fendi and Delfina Delettrez Fendi, he will join hands to bring Fendi to the future.

Gucci

Alessandro Michele did not disappoint every audience who watched the big show completely. Just when people thought that the 68 sets of shapes filed out announced the end of the big show, the overhead partition in the center of the show, a portrait shot by photographer Mark Peckmezian, slowly rose, and the two sides of the show merged into one, and the excitement just began.

The model who was alone just now suddenly found her identical "other half" and appeared again hand in hand with each other. The meaning of the theme of the show "Twinsburg" can also be fully explained: Twinsburg, Ohio, USA is known as the city of twins, and the annual "Twin Festival" here will attract twins from all over the world to attend the party. From a more personal point of view, Michele's life is also accompanied by this twin influence. His mother Eralda and menstruation Giuliana are also twins. "They take the identity of twins as the ultimate mark of their existence and dress in the same way. They are magical mirror images, one recreating the other. "

Having said that, Michele doesn't just want to add the stunt of the show with this sense of form. On the contrary, the similarities and differences under the twins, personality and * * *, dislocation and difference are the key points he wants to express. When each pair of twins was born, this genetic similarity began to influence their lives, and they were patterned to wear the same clothes and become each other's other selves.

And the society's response to twins is also contradictory. We are amazed at this high similarity, but we can't help but explore their differences as individuals. This kind of entanglement and dislocation does not affect the identity cognition of twins' self, but after they have independent thinking, judgment and behavior ability, why do they continue to recreate another self in life with behaviors similar to "performance"?

What role does fashion play in the identity world of twins? Those neat uniforms and suits are all role settings endowed by society, while the seemingly gorgeous and romantic tulle and sequins have lost the right to be "beautiful alone" in the twin world, but they have produced 1+1 >; 2, attracting people's attention.

Twin models Guan Yiwen and Guan Yiyun from China participated in the catwalk.

"The same clothes exude completely different temperament on the seemingly same body. In the final analysis, even in a series of multiplication and reproduction, the vitality of fashion will not hinder the most authentic self-expression of each individual. " Michele gave an understanding from the experience of life. "In fact, all twins have clearly realized that they are not the center of the universe since they were born." And this sentence also reminds each of us that we think we are unique. Does the "authenticity" carried by fashion have to be different? Does our flaunting of our own personality unconsciously reveal our self-centered arrogance? When a face with a similar costume appears not far away, how can people's personality be revealed? Even the definition of personality is disintegrated and reconstructed in this show.

Versace

Donatella Versace has always held the strongest catwalk lineup in Milan Fashion Week, and this time she invited ——Paris Hilton, one of the most important symbols in the millennial pop culture, to make the finale.

The rhinestone chain mail dress brings people back to her birthday party 12 years ago. The pink style of the whole body declares the fashionable sovereignty of the Millennium, and the exquisite veil on her head also symbolizes the quiet change of her identity.

Except for this fluorescent Barbie powder tailored for Paris Hilton, the whole show is completely wrapped in electro-optic purple, and Donatella's design inspired by the dark gothic goddess is full of confusion and charm. "I have always admired rebels. A self-confident, wise and somewhat queen-like woman, wearing leather, rivets, washed jeans, chiffon or knitting, wearing a crown, boldly showing her fashion attitude. She is a strong, independent, beautiful and confident woman and a free and easy goddess. " She explained.

She endowed these glamorous Gothic queens with purple armor, and on the basis of dazzling colors, she played with a mix of multiple materials, from electro-optic purple silk dresses to matte purple leather tube top skirts, as well as soft and blurred purple chiffon lace and irregularly cut fabric shawls. Almost all items were enchanted by this unique Gothic charm, which was dangerous but more irresistible. In 211, Donatella used tulip printing to awaken people's yearning for purple. Twelve years later, Versace was determined to bring purple back to the peak.

One of the biggest attractions of Milan Fashion Week is that the designers of the three major brands changed coaches for the first time. Maximilian Davis, Marco de Vincenzo and Rhuigi Villa? Or and their new roles will be a topic that will be talked about repeatedly for some time to come.

Ferragamo

Maximilian Davis, who is only 27 years old, became the creative director of this brand with a history of nearly 1 years in March this year, and let Ferragamo transform his new image before the show. In an interview with Vogue's September issue, he once said that he was digging up brand files to determine a new brand password. Now, a dazzling fashion image is undoubtedly becoming the focus of attention.

Maximilian Davis explained: "I intend to interpret Hollywood culture from a new perspective and pay tribute to Ferragamo's brand origin. Show your leisure and sexy, and think about the sunset and sunrise. " Red is inseparable from the red carpet and Hollywood starlight, and it is also the core and starting point of the whole series. At the same time, Davis took inspiration from the bright red high-heeled shoes designed by the brand for Marilyn Monroe in 1959, and decorated the dress with sparkling rhinestones like stars.

In addition to the ceremonial red shape, the "Sunset Series" series by the artist Rachel Harrison has also become his creative source. Those gradual colors are presented on the soft organza and poplin, showing a rich holiday atmosphere, echoing the red sandstone arranged in the show. "Sandstone is closely related to Ferragamo, Hollywood and the ocean. At the same time, In Caribbean culture, the ocean is a place to inspire thinking and feeling. I hope to interpret the meaning of the ocean to Caribbean culture from Ferragamo's perspective. "

etro

Marco de Vincenzo last exploded social media when he asked models to walk in the outdoor show with ice cream of the same color. De Vincenzo was appointed as the creative director of Etro at the end of May, so the preparation time for the first show was very tight. "For me, this season is to express the potential of Etro and show the wider possibilities that have not been explored."

Compared with continuing Etro's bohemian style and paisley printing, De Vincenzo's creativity is bolder. "I like the structure and compact materials, and I am not very familiar with the bohemian world; This doesn't mean that I can't interpret it in my way in the future, but now I am given this position to express my views. " He is very determined and confident to inject a new look with personal style imprint into this old fashion house, but fortunately, this has not separated the brand history.

He is like a gardener holding an encyclopedia of botany, and he integrates those historical prints of flowers, trees, birds, animals, insects and fish into his design, and at the same time presents them with modern novel fashion elements such as hand-dyed cashmere, denim brocade, cotton shirts and satin tennis shirts, so that Etro can really blend into everyone's wardrobe, which is what he calls "offering".

Bally

remember rhuigi villa? The name of or is a bit difficult, but you must be familiar with the Rhude he founded. He once told the media: "When I founded RHUDE, it was largely because of my desire for luxury goods." Now, he finally got his long-cherished wish and became the creative director of a classic luxury brand.

Born in Villas, Manila, Philippines in 1992.