Anshun, Guizhou, how to create a "gourmet world" in food stalls?

How to define "Guizhou flavor" is a difficult problem, because it is far more than the well-known "sour" and "spicy".

Geographically, Guizhou has been a "foreign land" far away from the central government for a long time in history, and most people living here are non-Han people, so it is not an exaggeration to say that the background color of Guizhou flavor is ethnic minority flavor.

Guizhou is rich and unique in taste, but it is not famous as "Guizhou cuisine", not only because its color is deeply influenced by neighboring provinces, but also because Guizhou cuisine has not developed its unique cooking skills. The core and soul of "cooking" is the cooking method of handling ingredients.

Guizhou, located in the southwest border, is a place with poor cooking skills, but it is surrounded by several major cuisines. Spicy and delicious Sichuan cuisine, refreshing Hunan cuisine baking and clean Cantonese cuisine cooking have formed a taste intersection with traffic in Guizhou. At the same time, Guizhou is a big immigrant province, and the interaction of immigrant tides in different periods has fundamentally created the characteristics of "Guizhou cuisine"-fusion, which is delicious regardless of the place of origin.

If you want to experience the "Guizhou flavor" caused by traffic, Anshun, located in the middle of Guizhou, may be one of your best destinations.

1. Anshun snacks with commercial aura

Anshun has developed commerce and trade, and the local snacks are complex and diverse. Anshun was built in the Ming Dynasty, and its geographical location is "the lock of Yunnan and Guizhou". It is the fortress of Yunnan-Guizhou main channel, and Anshun has gradually become an important commercial port in Guizhou Province, known as the "crown of trade". Wu Qizhuo, a Qing Dynasty man, described the scene of that year in "A Tour in Yunnan"-"Anshun Fucheng is surrounded by nine miles ... Jia people gather far away, far better than Guiyang".

In the period of the Republic of China, Guizhou opened up smoking bans and advocated opium cultivation. To this end, Sichuan, Hunan, Guangdong, Guangxi and other big tobacco merchants gathered in Anshun, and Anshun became a large-scale material distribution center. According to "The Continuation of Anshun", "extending in all directions, merchants are everywhere, and silks and satins are bizarre; Foreign goods are full of brains, competing for each other; The prosperity of business is in the province. "

The active business has promoted the formation of Anshun business circle, which is "from the city gate to the Big Cross Bell and Drum Tower, the street is more than a mile long and more than 30 feet wide". There are three places in the north, namely Jiangya Street, Wang Chuntai Street and Rulin Road, and four places in the south, namely Caojia Street, Biyangwan Street, Gufu Street and Tongzhi Lane. Anshun snacks sprout, flourish and develop in the business circle.

2. "Clothing in Guiyang, eating and drinking in Anshun"

Anshun snacks are so dense that even Guiyang, the provincial capital, should be polite. Several seemingly low-key noodle stands on the streets of Gufu have been passed down from generation to generation, and each one is an old brand.

The best way to travel in Anshun is to eat there. Of course, this is not my idea alone. Every visitor to Anshun Old Town wants to try "crossing the street", eating from one end of the street to the other, eating from one street to another, carefree and free.

Wrapped rolls are a classic cold food in Anshun. Diners can choose four kinds of secret Chili sauce. When the tomato paste is imported, the skin is fresh and cool before filling. The wrapped sour radish, mung bean sprouts and crisp soybeans are all very crisp ingredients, with a little acid in the sweetness, which makes the lips and teeth feel refreshed. The more spicy pickled pepper flavor is wrapped, and the overall taste continues the refreshing taste. Spicy Chili sauce is a bit overbearing, and people have to eat it several times in a row before they stop.

The size of the wrap is suitable for eating in one bite, but with the market demand, there are large-size wraps that can satisfy the stomach, and you can also match the side dishes and sauces of rice skin yourself.

There is always a frying pan boiling in the obscure corner of the roadside. Egg cakes are golden and crisp, so people can't help but pick up a steaming cake and want to send it directly to their mouths. But this omelet needs to be dipped in hot sauce and eaten with broken ears to be right.

Fried egg cake originated in Zhenning. It is made like a sandwich: first, rice and soybeans are swollen, then mixed with rice and vermicelli powder, then mashed into slurry, put into a metal hexagonal mold, filled with stuffing, then put into the slurry, fried until golden, and then taken out. The shell is golden, crisp and white inside.

Anshun snacks have always been spicy and thick, but they are lifeless and sticky. Due to the influence of the southeast monsoon, even in the coldest January, the lowest temperature in Anshun is maintained at 4 degrees Celsius. There is no severe winter in winter and no heat in summer, which shapes the pattern of paying equal attention to hot and cold snacks in Anshun. Hot food gathers food, sweating like rain, cold food is fresh and refreshing, and it is endless fun.

3. Combination of rice and spicy patterns

Anshun snacks have two souls-pepper and rice.

The original flavor of Anshun snacks can't be copied in other places, and one of the main reasons is that the freshness of peppers is destroyed. In Anshun, snack brands will not gain a foothold if peppers are not well prepared.

Pepper-derived seasonings are the soul of Anshun snacks. It can be said that every time-honored Chili sauce is an exclusive secret recipe and tastes different. Homemade peppers are not difficult for Anshun people. Every August and September, when morning pepper and wild green pepper are on the market, every household in the city begins to make "rotten pepper" by the most traditional method.

"rotten pepper" is the name of "chopped pepper" in Guizhou. Take fresh peppers, chop them with ginger, garlic cloves, raw peppers and other accessories by hand, season them with salt, sugar and white wine, and pickle them in a jar. After half a year's static fermentation, by the end of the year, the rotten pepper in the jar released a faint hot and sour aroma, even if it was successful.

Anshun people's interest in pasta is always a little poor, but they are interested in studying all kinds of rice food. Whether it is rice paste or rice noodles, it is a fresh and locally developed food light industry, which runs around the clock and continuously supplies ingredients to every picky mouth in the city. Anshun has dozens of rice milling industries, such as rice flour industry, bean flour industry and tofu industry. The rice milling industry uses stones to grind rice into rice, or uses water to grind rice to feed more than a thousand rice workers in the city. The rice noodle industry uses a rice mill to make rice noodles, and the noodles made are delicate, uniform and clean, which is most suitable for snacks.

Ciba is the most common food in Guizhou. The raw materials are glutinous rice, which can be roughly divided into three categories: eating now, roasting on fire and frying. The current eating method is to beat glutinous rice into glutinous rice, put it in a hot iron pot, pull it into small balls, wrap it with sweet and salty stuffing, and eat it while pulling. There is a white cake baked by fire, without stuffing, sliced and baked, and served with soybeans; Bean paste cake, as its name implies, is oblate and has bean paste stuffing inside; Fried Ciba, there are Ciba pieces, cake pieces, fried beans.

Qingming Ba is a high-level display of Qingming grass and rice noodles by local people. The master took glutinous rice flour and japonica rice flour, and Qingming grass and water began to mix noodles. The combination of two kinds of rice neutralizes too much glutinous rice, which brings a touch of tenderness to women. I ate with bean paste. After half a bite, the smell of bean paste floated out and I was in a hurry to eat it. The aroma reaches the nasal cavity and is refreshing. This is a simple and lively sweetness. Southwestern people prefer salty stuffing, with rotten peppers mixed with minced meat and dried tofu.

There is also a very creative morning snack called "fried rice porridge", which mixes rice and oil artistically, plus a spoonful of Guizhou specialty "appetizer". Thick porridge and hot oil are mixed with rice fragrance to soothe the empty stomach in the morning, while fried rice porridge keeps its crisp fragrance.

4. The life of Anshun people starts from the dining table.

Consumption life makes Anshun's food more expensive bit by bit, and also enhances Anshun people's enthusiasm for life. At the end of the Qing Dynasty and the beginning of the Republic of China, the catering industry in Anshun began to develop rapidly. "The Continuation of Anshun" contains: "The market is prosperous, which is very different from the past. Businessmen make a lot of money and live more and more luxuriously; In terms of banquets, the past was nothing more than vegetables, eight bowls and tendons. Now it is a sea cucumber mat, a shark fin mat and a barbecue mat. "

No matter what class, as long as people are willing to pay attention, the hostess has a good cooking skill. Snacks should be prepared all year round. Cook Qingming Baba on March 3, eat glutinous rice on April 8, cook glutinous rice on Chongyang in September, and cook Laba porridge on the eighth day of the twelfth lunar month. The food is delicious and pleasant.

Dai Mingxian once mentioned the street sound of Anshun Town in One's Anshun. "Around midnight, the city was silent, and there was a unique cry of' fried rice with sugar'. In addition, there are several noodle restaurants that are quietly opened in the long night, selling sweet wine, printing mixed sugar and Hot-pastry-la at dawn! "With frequent hawking, the sky turned blue and white, the sun gradually dazzled, and the old town of Anshun became more and more lively. Stroll around East Street to find the sound and taste, and you will find a great breakfast shop.

Anshun people also have a funny breakfast jargon called "full of cooking oil", which is not spicy, onion is called "no red and no green", soup is called "soup width", and even spoons and chopsticks have nicknames-"duck" and "Artemisia stick".

Breakfast in Anshun also has obvious fusion characteristics. Broken shortbread is a snack in Yunnan, but it also blooms everywhere in Anshun. Only in time can you buy freshly baked buns. When you bite them, you can see layers of crispy skin, which will melt in your mouth and taste delicious with salty pork stuffing. Wrapped rolls are also the most common snacks in Anshun street. Generally, they are sold by the box. You can buy a box on your way home and take it home to all the people in Xian Yi.

It is always a good choice to have breakfast on Rulin Road every morning. The bluestone pavement on the old street has been polished by time. As long as there are colorful snacks, the town will always maintain a calm, simple and peaceful mentality, just like the years themselves.

The original text is taken from the authentic scenery of Guizhou, with additions, deletions and changes.