Strolling through Suzhou Creek

On the afternoon of arriving at Suzhou River along Suzhou River, the umbrella was high and the sun was burning the earth. Approaching the four rows of warehouses, there are no people in the upper reaches of the square. On the edge, the muddy Suzhou River pushes each other and flows slowly. Visitors in front of the warehouse may not know that the name "Suzhou River" actually comes from foreigners. /kloc-after the opening of Shanghai in the middle of the 0/9th century, many foreigners in Shanghai thought they could row along this river to Suzhou, so they named it Suzhou River.

Suzhou River, the earliest English name is "Soochow creek", and creek means creek. For China people, it is more inclined to call this river Wusong River. Among peers, the writer btr quoted Shangshu as saying that one of the three rivers refers to Songjiang, which is now Suzhou River. Later, because Songjiang was in Wudi, it was called Wusong River.

Before the 1990s, coastal industries developed rapidly, at the cost of Suzhou Creek being black as ink all year round. In this regard, Tianhou Niangniang can neither help nor help. After the 1990s, the factories on both sides of the strait moved and the rivers were treated in the third phase. Today, Suzhou River can maintain water quality through natural ecological circulation. Walking on the bank of Suzhou Creek Bridge, I heard my companion exclaim: "There is more than one fish on the shore!"

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Records of Suzhou Creek Industrial Building Remains: Shen ...

Riverside industrial heritage: four warehouses

The starting point of this walk is four rows of warehouses. This 0.3-hectare building is both a warehouse and a building. The "four-bank warehouse" mentioned today is actually two warehouses, with the "four-bank trust Shanghai branch warehouse" in the west and the mainland bank warehouse in the east.

Zhu Yichen, a postdoctoral fellow in the School of Architecture and Urban Planning, mainly studies the protection, renewal and enjoyment of waterfront industrial heritage. She introduced that the two warehouses were built almost at the same time, and they were connected internally when they were built. The four rows of warehouses you see today are what the design team looks like after careful restoration. There were seven floors before the warehouse was repaired, and the upper two floors were added later. During the repair, the seventh floor was demolished, and the sixth floor was taken over in the east, south and west directions. When you look at the warehouse from the bottom up, it is still the five-story building when it was first built.

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Four lines of warehouse recovery recording said: Shen clip: Wang Yuezhou.

Lou Cheng Hao, an advocate of ancient house protection and an expert in architectural archives, introduced to you that now, we have listed the warehouse behind the temple as a cultural relic building and strictly protected it. However, for a long time after liberation, residents and users arbitrarily built buildings around the warehouse behind the temple, and the facade of the warehouse was covered with various objects. The roadway is only one step wide, and the original appearance of the warehouse can't be seen at all. We can only try to understand that these lives are forced by the times.

At the end of the Battle of Songhu, when the fourth-line warehouse defended the war, the shells mainly came from the west. Nowadays, bullet holes are also densely covered with the whole memorial wall. At that time, the Japanese army did not dare to use heavy artillery, because the boundary between the concession and the Chinese border crossed obliquely from the middle of the mainland coast. If the gas tank of the gas company across a bridge is hit by a missile explosion and affects the concession, something will definitely happen. Even so, eight hundred heroes (actually more than 420 strong men) fought fiercely with the Japanese army for four whole days and nights.

When the buildings listed as cultural relics were restored, there were dozens of versions of the restoration scheme of this wall alone. It is suggested that if the exact position of the bullet hole cannot be found, it would rather be restored to the original state before 1935. According to many explorations and technical innovation breakthroughs of the restoration team, it was finally found that different materials were used for the original masonry and post-war sealing of the west wall of the warehouse wall. The old wall should be a big red brick imported from England, and later it was supplemented with another kind of blue brick used for early repair. After many textual researches, the team basically determined the specific location of the big hole and then rebuilt it. Finally, the historical traces left by 1937 after the war.

Of course, the four-row warehouse left us not only the above-mentioned industrial value and the commemorative value of the Anti-Japanese War, but also the landscape value, because it is next to the Suzhou River. In the past, the river was used for production, but now the Suzhou River has almost no shipping function, and people will regard the river as a place for leisure and walking, so the four rows of warehouses also played a symbolic role. We look up and exclaim, Oh, this giant by the river.

Life form by the river: Shen Yuli and other Shikumen

Now walking along the Suzhou River, there are no running factories and no busy docks, but the whole urbanization process of Shanghai is gradually extended with the Suzhou River. Not only industry but also shipping, such as silk weaving, textile, printing, flour and machinery manufacturing. Factories, stacks and warehouses have been set up along the river.

Mou Zhenyu, an associate researcher at the Institute of History of Shanghai Academy of Social Sciences, said that before urbanization, both sides of Suzhou River were farmers. 1843 After the opening of Shanghai, the British Concession was established, and some land in the lower reaches of Suzhou Creek was quickly rented by foreigners to build docks, warehouses and Shikumen houses. With the development of concession cities, Suzhou River and its nearby concession reach began to prosper. 1895 After the treaty of shimonoseki was signed, Shanghai allowed foreign capitalists to set up factories in Shanghai, and Suzhou Creek became the first choice for Chinese and foreign factories to set up factories. First of all, because of convenient transportation, the transportation of raw materials and products is convenient; Secondly, the east of Suhewan is the concession, and the west is the Chinese border of Zhabei. The initial land price was very low. The textile and printing industries need a lot of water and sewage, and they also save a sum of money financially, which can be borne by some smaller factories in China. In addition, there are railway reasons, such as the opening of Songhu Railway and Shanghai-Nanjing Railway, which have strengthened the connection between Shanghai and the whole hinterland of the Yangtze River Delta. By the beginning of the 20th century, Suzhou River along the river was not only an important port area in Shanghai, but also the most important industrial belt in Shanghai, and became the "home base of Huajie Factory".

The farther east you go along Suzhou Creek, the closer you get to the original concession area. Lou Cheng Hao said that land transfer used to be a game between local residents and foreign residents. At the end of the Qing Dynasty, in order to prevent the tide from flowing backwards, a sluice bridge was built in today's Fujian Road and Bridge, which is called the Old Sluice Bridge. Boatman boats from Taihu Lake Basin docked here and moved agricultural and sideline products ashore, forming a market for rice, cotton yarn and silk, which is called the North Market. After the appearance of the small fireboat, the corresponding maintenance hardware store and blacksmith shop appeared. A group of businessmen came into being in the northern market and settled here. Shenyuli is a better one in Shikumen, with a Feng-shaped layout and a standard residence in Xinli. Besides most residents are businessmen, there are also lawyers and doctors. There is also Yuminglou Bookstore around for their entertainment.

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Lou Shuo Shikumen and the record of population migration along Suzhou River: edited by Shen. ...

A typical Shikumen in Shanghai has a wide main lane in the middle and several side lanes. Shikumen was designed with living room, compartment, front building and back building. There are too many names, and each room has its own function. If you buy or rent one, it's like a conjoined villa now. Later, during the 72-tenant period, all the rooms became sleeping places.

As the epitome of Shanghai's urban development, Shikumen witnessed three large population agglomerations. The first time was during the Taiping Heavenly Kingdom, and the second time was during the War of Resistance against Japanese Aggression period. A large number of refugees fled to the concession. Then the educated youth returned to the city in the late Cultural Revolution. If the house is not enough to live in, build it in the patio and living room. The concentration of population in different periods led to the same chaotic construction.

Shen Yuli Shikumen Building, taken on 20 14. Lou cheng Hao tu

As an excellent historical building, Shen Yuli was illegally demolished around 20 10. Chen, one of the founders of urban archaeology, added that there was the former Shanghai fifteenth district office on that land. From 1947, the fifteenth district was renamed the North Station District Office, which is the first batch of immovable cultural relics in Shanghai. It is the first batch of immovable cultural relics in Shanghai. The original site of Beizhan District Office is located at No.40 Laozha Street, which is the last and oldest street left over from Laozha Market.

In fact, it is also the root of Zhabei. Because it is located in the old Zhabei, it is called Zhabei, and later it was called Zhabei District. Now it has been incorporated into Jing 'an District.

Shanghai shenyuli area. The road catalogue shows Laozha Street at the lower right.

Ambassador of Tianhou Palace, Aviation Academy and Shanghai General Chamber of Commerce

From a historical map of Shanghai 1600 years ago, we can see that one of the rivers flowing out of Taihu Lake basin flows to Shanghai, and its widest point is "ten miles wide", that is Wusong River (Suzhou River). After the changes of the times, the Wusong River has become narrower and narrower, while the Huangpu River has become wider and wider. Finally, Wusongkou became the mouth of Huangpu River. History books are also called "Huangpu wins songs".

Therefore, in a long historical stage, Suzhou River is also the starting point of Shanghai shipping. Mou Zhenyu said that China's southeast coastal areas generally engaged in navigation believe in Mazu, because Mazu can protect the safety of all beings at sea. Legend has it that in the event of a shipwreck, you only need Mazu's blessing to avoid the shipwreck. Mazu, whose real name is Maureen, was born in Meizhou Island in Putian in Song and Yuan Dynasties (960). In the fourth year of Yongxi (987), he rescued the sunken ship and was regarded as a protector by the local people after his death, and built a temple for sacrifice.

Shanghai is an immigrant society. Every place and all walks of life have their own gods, so all kinds of gods and buddhas gather here. Mazu belief was once very popular in Shanghai, and it was constantly recognized and titled by the government. From the Empress, the Lady, to "Tian Fei" and finally to "Tianhou", she was posthumously sealed eight times in Shanghai alone. One of the important reasons is grain transportation. Ensuring the smooth arrival of grain transportation in Beijing is directly related to national interests.

The earliest Tianhou Palace in Shanghai was built near the East Gate of the Old Town. In the third year of Xianfeng (1853), the Knife Society revolted and the Tianhou Palace was destroyed by war. In the ninth year of Guangxu reign (1883), Guangbang gentry and merchants rebuilt on the north bank of Suzhou River, then the North Road of Henan Province, also known as the "Railway Tianhou Palace", and the Mazu statue of Xiaodongmen also moved here.

Next door to the Tianhou Palace used to be an envoy. Built at the same time as Tianhou Palace. During the Westernization Movement in the late Qing Dynasty, it was necessary to send officials to study and communicate abroad. Before communicating with foreign countries, we need to find a place to stay, and that is the function of entering the palace. It will take several months by boat, so you need the protection of Tianhou Niangniang. In the early years of the Republic of China, Chen, commander-in-chief of the Shanghai Army, decided to take back the Tianhou Palace and the diplomatic garden, which were once enclaves (neither belonging to the Qing Dynasty nor the Concession), and let them be used by the Shanghai General Chamber of Commerce. What we can still see today is the gatehouse and the main building (now the restaurant) of the Shanghai General Chamber of Commerce.

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Talking about the historical record of Tianhou Palace: edited by Shen: Wang Yuezhou.

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Recording of Mou Zhenyu's belief in Tianhou: Shen Clip: Wang Yuezhou.

Video screenshot of the rambler in front of the gate of Shanghai General Chamber of Commerce

Nowadays, walking around the Shanghai General Chamber of Commerce, Mazu statue and Tianhou Palace building are hard to find. Li Feng, an architect who participated in the reconstruction of the stage of Tianhou Palace, said that Tianhou Palace used to be divided into several buildings. Nearest to Suzhou Creek, there is a gatehouse facing Suzhou Creek. Behind the concierge is a stage. Seen from the stage, there are two wings on which you can watch a play. The stage is facing the main hall, which is a typical official building structure in the late Qing Dynasty. There is also a bedroom for the queen of heaven behind the main hall.

In the turbulent years that followed, Tianhou Palace was used as an office building for schools or governments. In the era of tenants, it was ruined when the west knocked on the nail and opened the window. In 2006, due to the construction of Shanghai Rail Transit 12 Line, the remaining buildings of Tianhou Palace Stage can only be "fallen off the shelf". Brick carvings and wooden building components were removed one by one and stored in a warehouse in Zhabei District. Two years ago, after the renovation project of the gatehouse and stage was started, these components were tested one by one again, and will reappear in China Resources Vientiane World Suhewan Park in the future.

The Future of Suhewan: Urban Parks

Architect Li Wei presided over the architectural design of the whole Suhewan Park. He hopes that in the future, everyone can enter the open stage through the rebuilt Tianhou Palace gate. In this position, you can call for some very dynamic urban activities.

It is undeniable that these excellent historical buildings, including Shen Yuli and Tianhou Palace, were damaged to some extent in the later urban construction. Zhu Yichen said that now they have the opportunity to be rebuilt and re-presented to the public, which is a respect for history and culture. Because we can let people from all over the world see the cultural heritage in a public place.

At the same time, the reconstruction project of Shikumen like Shen Yuli is bound to face opportunities and challenges. The opportunity lies in the green space of Suhewan, where there will be very modern lifestyles such as leisure, commerce and culture, and there will be opportunities to present a basic form of modern life. The challenge is that, first of all, this is a reconstruction process, and it is difficult to say that it can be 100% restored, and its authenticity needs to be considered. Secondly, it is divorced from the texture of a city and will only rebuild eight Shikumen buildings, which is different from history. Today, there must be a gap. The third is its function. The residential function is bound to cease to exist. In public, it will definitely involve a new function.

In the past, the commercial format of the city was relatively closed, and it was difficult to connect with ecology and nature. As a walkable park business circle, for a city, it can make people understand its history, awaken the daily memories of different people and promote the communication between people.

Suzhou River was once an important waterway in Shanghai. But times have changed, Suzhou Creek has become the background of a city, and many people don't know the true face of Suzhou Creek in history. But the embrace of Suzhou Creek is always open to us. Walking in the city, we can read our Suzhou River and our sediments as slowly as reading.

The poster of Walking on the Suzhou River in Suzhou is hand-painted by Chen Xinpei.

(Author Chen Xinpei is a volunteer in the project of "Walking Suzhou Creek" and graduated from Shanghai Academy of Fine Arts with a major in printmaking)

Proofreading: Luan Meng