Gobi misty rain Jiayuguan

Original title: Longshang Fireworks City Gobi Yu Yan Jiayuguan

The majestic Jiayuguan Tower stands proudly.

Text/Enyou Liu

Looking at Qilian snow in the south, leaning against Heishan in the north, locking the key and throat.

The majestic Great Wall and the ancient Silk Road, like two historical streamers, meet and blend here. The camel bells of Zhang Qian's voyage to the Western Ocean still seem to reverberate in this land, and the horseshoe of Shengfeng's army also rings here. Border oases and trading ports, rich history and diverse regional cultures have become the focus of world attention, and the new appearance of "half city, half city and half lake" has attracted more tourists from all directions.

This is Jiayuguan, which is located in the middle of Hexi Corridor and is known as the "Pearl of Gobi".

Fireworks ancient city

198 1 summer, I came to Jiayuguan.

My home is not far from Guancheng. You can see the towering Jiayuguan Tower every day, and it takes half an hour to walk to the foot of the Great Wall. Whenever the sun sets, the wheel-like sunset glow in Qilian Mountain is transparent and bright, like a red-hot iron block, which pollutes Jiayuguan's previous life.

Jiayuguan Pass is listed as the first of the top ten passes of the Great Wall in Wan Li in Ming Dynasty. It is the first pass at the western end of the Great Wall in the Ming Dynasty and the transportation hub of the ancient Silk Road. Built in the fifth year of Hongwu in Ming Dynasty (AD 1372), it is the throat of Hexi Corridor thousands of miles away and has the reputation of "the first pass in the world".

Jiayuguan Tower under the setting sun

On the scorching evening of the sunset, the vast red clouds outlined the majestic and proud outline of Guancheng, and Zuo personally wrote the solemn words "The First Xiongguan in the World", as if covered with beautiful red gauze. Looking at the Great Wall bronzed by time, many magnificent works left by countless literati in ancient and modern times for Jiayuguan flooded into my mind. The most famous is Lin Zexu's Feeling of Walking Out of Jiayuguan: "There are hundreds of feet in the west, and Wan Li recruits people to be stationed in horseshoes. The flying pavilion is far away from Qin Shu, with dazzling walls and low clouds. Tianshan stands shoulder to shoulder, and the vast sea is fascinating. Who said that faith is eternal? When I look back, all I see is a grain of mud. "

Yun Qi is full of smoke, flames and dark clouds. Later, the world seemed to hear the fierce battle of Emperor Wu of the Han Dynasty and the neighing of war horses, the echoes of sheep and caravans passing through Jiayuguan in the Ming Dynasty, and the white "Bright Moon Hanging in the Sky in the Infinite Clouds and Hazes" looking up, Wang Changling sang the white grass on the Gobi Desert. Of course, you can also feel the unrestrained and unrestrained snow flowing under the beacon tower in Jiayuguan.

Living in Jiayuguan is like walking on the long corridor of time, and you can smell the fireworks of history: look, the maid of the general's family is rolling long noodles, the cook is adding firewood to the stove, and the hot air from the pot permeates the whole city. In this ancient Guancheng, there are incense-filled Guandi Temple, antique sacrificial platforms, legends of strict stone-beating, legends of goats carrying bricks and transporting stones on ice, bricks for repairing the city, bold and unrestrained nomadic dances, patrol soldiers riding horses and wearing armor, and business trips with camels. ...

Shi Yun chanting.

What is engraved in my memory? This is a small stone.

Stone is a hard thing, but it is very soft in my eyes, because it is inseparable from Jiayuguan city, so it can touch my heart most. 500 million years ago, the Ordovician crustal movement, volcanic eruption, surface uplift, Qilian Mountain and Jingtieshan Mountain jumped into a mountain range across the north and south, so molten magma erupted and deposited colorful minerals.

Jiayuguan is not only a pass, but also a city. It is a city named after the pass, established by mines and built by enterprises. 1955, the predecessors of Team 645 of Northwest Geological Bureau went through hardships and found Jingtieshan, a large iron mine with a reserve of over 500 million tons, in the hinterland of Qilian Mountain. Subsequently, jiuquan iron and steel Company, JISCO for short, was established. 1In July, 965, Jiayuguan City was established in the State Council. At this point, this emerging steel city rose from the Gobi desert, and people used to call it "steel city".

Gobi Desert sings with stone rhyme.

Jiayuguan city was actually born from fireworks; Forged molten steel is like flowing silk; There are also ironmaking fireworks and splashing steel flowers to illuminate the sky in Jiayuguan day and night. Workers of jiuquan iron and steel Company smelt iron-containing ore into furnaces of soft molten iron every day, and then smelted the molten iron into high-quality steel for sale at home and abroad, benefiting people along the Silk Road. Jiayuguan people seem to live in a stone tribe.

I often stand in the middle of the Gobi, as if I were in a sea of stones, such as steamed bread, cakes, potatoes, radishes, cantaloupes and eggs, which are round and smooth, just like polished by a machine, and can't even hang a drop of water; And angular, some symmetrical, some enchanting, some colorful, showing a variety of customs in the sun.

"Steel City" is inseparable from stones. More than 200 mysterious and precious "gobbledygook" rock paintings from the Paleolithic Age to the Ming Dynasty were engraved on the stone of Jiayuguan Pass in Braque Mountain, and they left a "history book" on the stone. So it can be said that the soft Jiayuguan stone bears the history, culture and feelings of Gangcheng people. Therefore, Jiayuguan people like stones, so it is very important to go to Gobi to see the huge sea paving stones, see the surging waves and listen to the fine wind-washed stones at the foot of Qilian Mountain. ...

Queming fountain pen

Peach blossoms and flower trees all over the streets are in full bloom. Lilacs spit out lush ears in early spring, and peach blossom powder, with bright cherry blossoms and white pear blossoms, is followed by several miles of Sophora japonica blooming all over the city, like strings of pearls hanging on both sides of the road.

Secondly, in this heavy industrial city, which mainly produces steel, how can there be such beautiful songs of magpie and cuckoo? In the morning and evening, there are always cuckoos singing tactfully outside the window, and the sound of magpies can be seen everywhere, which reproduces the scene of the poet Xin Qiji's "bright moon surprises magpies, and the breeze knows at midnight". In fact, streams, wetlands, inlets, islands, lakes and other different forms of water space highlight the urban characteristics of Jiayuguan, that is, "water is in the city, and the city is at the water's edge", "you can enjoy the scenery when you go out of the window, and you can enjoy the garden when you leave the garden".

Jiayuguan Caohu National Wetland Park

Jiayuguan is a small town, but it has a unique rhythm and rhythm. Today's park has become the back garden of residents, from apricot flowers, pear flowers and peach blossoms in the garden to cherry blossoms, cloves, Rosa davurica, peony, and lotus flowers in the pool, one after another, blooming wave after wave.

"I! Hey! " Walking in the park or on the road in Jiayuguan, you will always hear the cheerful cries of magpies. In order to find fame, magpies with flower tails jump on branches not far above your head in twos and threes. Jiayuguan in front of us is a city dotted with lakes. In the past, people used to call Jiayuguan Steel City, but now I think another name is more suitable for Jiayuguan City, and that is Lake City!

Jiayuguan Donghu park

In the courtyard wall on the east side of the sculpture "Pioneer of Steel City", Hongshan Hawthorn leans against the wall to watch pedestrians coming and going; On the crown on the right side of the sculpture, the magpie's nest is getting bigger and bigger. At dusk, you can hear pairs of flowers and magpies twittering and pulling home. Jiayuguan has 7 large-scale ecological parks and more than 20 artificial lakes, with a per capita water area of 27 square meters. Every spring and summer, "Jiayuguan vegetation fragrance" is the common feeling of all Jiayuguan people. I have received many foreign friends from Jiayuguan, and two things surprised them and shocked their hearts:

First of all, Jiayuguan, a Gobi city, can meet blue water everywhere. Looking around, the blue sky and the lake are like a dream, and "half city, half city and half lake" has become a major landscape of this Gobi city. Just walk in here and you will see the sparkling water. Walking in Jiayuguan urban and rural areas, Chinese kale seeds are in full bloom at zero temperature, and Youlong Sophora japonica, Youlong juniper, BBK juniper, Shouxing peach, Parthenocissus tricuspidata and cypress are planted in the square.

Shejian tasty

When it comes to Jiayuguan barbecue, memories and emotions are instantly awakened. Here, "a barbecue and a city" are inseparable.

Jiayuguan people have the most say in barbecue. Barbecue here has a long history and is one of the intangible cultural heritages of Jiayuguan. As early as the Wei and Jin Dynasties, there was a diet custom of kebabs here. Archaeologists have found many realistic pictures of kebabs on Wei-Jin bricks in Jiayuguan. At this time, I seemed to see the fire of mutton skewers on brick murals in Wei and Jin Dynasties. They are like a tribe by Caohu Lake. The mutton skewers on those iron skewers are still the same as they were more than 1000 years ago, fresh, tender and fragrant.

Jiayuguan barbecue

Jiayuguan barbecue tastes unique. Lamb kebabs are made by cutting fresh mutton into diamond-shaped pieces with your thumb, stringing them on iron skewers, sprinkling seasonings such as Chili powder, pepper powder, star anise powder, ginger powder and refined salt, baking them in a special rectangular oven with fire, constantly turning them over, and sprinkling seasonings at any time. The surface is crisp and yellow, the meat is cooked, and the strong fragrance wafts away, which makes people salivate.

Jiayuguan barbecue is well known. On CCTV, there are not only mutton skewers, but also lamb chops, legs, stomachs, feet, sheepskin, heads, bones, whole sheep and pit meat. No matter spring, summer, autumn and winter, barbecue shops everywhere are full of fireworks, and by dusk, the shops are full of guests. Especially in the summer evening, about three or five friends, sitting in front of the barbecue shop, having a few barbecues, bottles of wine and draft beer, eating meat and drinking a big bowl, like the fireworks village in the city, is comfortable and quiet.

This Spring Festival, I called to greet an old friend who lives in the south. He especially misses the mutton in Jiayuguan. I bought a freshly slaughtered sheep that day, packed it and flew it over. The next day, he happily enjoyed the delicious food in Jiayuguan. At that moment, in a foreign land in the south, he must have felt the northland atmosphere in the depths of Jiayuguan Street, especially the taste of crossing history, which is an inexhaustible homesickness.

Taste buds are a shortcut to the atrium. The best place to fall in love in Jiayuguan is to bring your girlfriend here for a barbecue. As long as you "feed" your girlfriend, it's a shoo-in, and the word "success" is not negotiable.

In addition to barbecues, Jiayuguan has a variety of delicious food. For example, soft gluten stuffed skin, hot and sour fried bean jelly, wheat-flavored baked shell, mala Tang, delicious mutton powder soup and so on. It is deeply favored by foodies.

In addition to local specialties, there are Beijing Roast Duck, Tianjin Goubuli Steamed Bun, Fujian Shaxian Rice Noodle, Hunan Stinky Tofu, Xinjiang kebabs, Sichuan Spicy Hot Pot, Shaanxi Qishan Saozi Noodle, Northeast Stew and other foreign cuisines. * * * With the flavor of Jiayuguan City, it is fragrant.

"North-South Tune"

If there is a dialect in Jiayuguan, it is "Southern accent to Northern tune".

Jiayuguan is a typical immigrant city. 1958 In March, 30,000 construction workers transferred from Angang Construction Company camped in this vast desert. Therefore, the dialect popular in Jiayuguan in that year was the Northeast dialect. Since the completion of 1958 Jiugang, a large number of people from all over the world have gathered at the foot of Xiongguan. These pioneers from Jiayuguan, from all corners of the country, took root in the Gobi desert and built Jiayuguan, a big nest, like a flock of swallows singing endlessly, holding the soil. As a result, the dialect that was popular in Jiayuguan in that year became "Southern accent and Northern accent".

Nevertheless, experts who have studied Jiayuguan dialect believe that the spoken language of Jiayuguan residents is mainly Mandarin, and local dialects are mainly manifested in Yuquan, Xincheng and Manjusri, all of which take "n" (including en, in, un and ün) as the nose and "ng" (including eng, ing, ong and ion) as the nose and tail.

Lexical aspects, such as:

The dialect "Le Yi" means "always, often, always", such as "the old man coughs badly after winter".

The dialect "gan Lian" means "connected and implicated", such as "this matter has nothing to do with me"

The dialect "Shangshou" means "upper seat, upper seat, upper seat", such as "please sit in the first room for the elderly".

The dialect "burning incense" means "burning incense to respect the gods", such as "burning incense to respect the ancestors".

Dialect "main waist" means "clothes, small cotton-padded jacket", for example, "it's hot, so I'm going to take off my main waist"

The dialect "Lewo", also called Yaowo, refers to the armpit on the chest side, such as "pain in Lewo".

In the "South-to-North Transfer Project" composed of dialects from all over the country, there is a "Qingming Riverside Map" of Jiayuguan's social life, which is also a barometer of people's joys and sorrows. When it is opened, it is full of Vientiane vitality and lights.

In the early 1980 s, he moved to Jiayuguan with the army. Ten years later, he changed jobs from the army and chose Jiayuguan to settle down. What immigration brings is the integration of all aspects and the collision of sparks of wisdom. Walking into the vegetable market, I saw Henan people selling beef, mutton and pork, Hubei people selling tofu, Sichuan people selling various seasonings, and Shaanxi people making leather ... They talked happily in their respective dialects, and I blinked, but I didn't understand many words. But when I went shopping, they immediately changed their roles and communicated with me in Mandarin, which made me laugh.

In the corner of this city's gentle silk house, in the verandah of a quiet furniture store, and in a fragrant flower shop, you can see Jiangnan beauty as soon as you look up. No matter how you ask about the quality of the goods in the store, they are always so gentle and delicate. They brought Wu Nong's soft language to Jiayuguan, allowing this rough land to penetrate into the warmth and beauty like a gentle breeze and drizzle, and also string the flowers and birds all year round into thousands of customs.