How do people in Wuhan say and play the "yellow plum blossom dish"?

Red plum blossom dishes

Article/Xiaoyin

Wuhan people drink and like to drink. People all over the country know this habit. If you walk around the late-night snack stalls in the streets of Wuhan, you can often see people at a table watching two people. They stretch their hands in front of each other's eyes, fist and arms, and mutter a long string of sentences without saying anything at the same time. Constantly changing gestures. The winner was elated, while the loser looked dissatisfied. The onlookers applauded, jumped for joy, stood up to fight, or drank together with wine. The men and women acted as if there was no one else around, and it was really lively.

This is the most lively and comfortable scene at the Wuhan wine table where the king is determined with his fists.

Many people know that Jiuling probably originated in the Western Zhou Dynasty. In the past, the ancients played things like throwing pots, shooting cups, and drinking water. Most of them came from the gatherings of literati, so drinking orders appeared frequently in Tang Dynasty poetry. For example, Li Shangyin wrote: "Every seat is given a spring wine to warm it, and a candle is covered with wax lamps to make it red." Another example is Bai Juyi's writing: "When the flowers are drunk, the sorrow of spring is broken, and when drunk, the flower branches are used as wine chips." I guess Mr. Lotte had a good time drinking. He got up and folded a bunch of flower branches. Everyone at the table was asked to take a flower branch. The person with the shortest flower branch, I'm sorry, was confused. People in Wuhan can't afford that now, unless you pick it in your own back garden, but few people seem to have their own back garden. Otherwise, under normal circumstances, you will be fined if you just go to the park to pick flowers. So in slightly more elegant situations, toothpicks are used instead. Although it sounds less romantic.

However, the shadow of Qushui flowing in the Wei and Jin Dynasties can still be seen in Wuhan’s drinking ceremony today. The so-called "flowing wine cup" means that a few friends choose an elegant and secluded place. They sit in an orderly manner beside the gurgling meandering water. One person places a cup filled with wine upstream and lets it flow down the river. The wine cup stops at He would take it and drink it in front of someone, and then write a poem while he was slightly drunk, whistling or aiding Han. The most famous one was the Orchid Pavilion Cultivation Conference on March 3, the 9th year of Yonghe reign of Emperor Mu of the Jin Dynasty. The great calligrapher Wang Xizhi and 41 celebrities of the time gathered in the Orchid Pavilion of Shanyin in Kuaiji to express their sentiments and express their feelings. A collection of poems was compiled by Wang Xizhi was drunk and wrote the "Preface to the Orchid Pavilion Collection" which will be passed down through the ages. Of course, there are also people who simplify this and only drink wine without writing poetry.

Wuhan’s drinking regulations also have similar rules. For example, a basic rule is that everyone at the table must participate. No matter what kind of drinking technique you know, or what method you use, Liushuiguan is something everyone needs to pass. The second is that for the sake of fairness and continuity, it must be carried out in a clockwise or counterclockwise order, punching the winner, no gaps, jumping, and running if you win. This actually echoes the words of the mandarin duck in "A Dream of Red Mansions": "The drinking order is as big as the military order!".

The Wuhan Drinking Order is extremely rich in content. It is not simply like the northerners, who just start with "two good men, five masters, and eight horses", nor is it like Mongolia, Tibet, and Xinjiang, which give you Sing until you're drunk. Wuhan's boxing and drinking orders include the Huazhi Order, the Riddle Order, the Allusion Order, the Word Splitting Order, the Dice Order, the Silent Order, and the Urgent Command, which are quite ancient and rare across the country.

Take the punching ritual called "waving order" in the Tang Dynasty as an example. Wuhan's punching ritual is the most musical and ornamental among similar drinking rituals in the country. First of all, before entering the theme, you have to recite a verse similar to a poem, split the words in the punch, connect the poem, and all kinds of hidden traps. The most popular saying is: "Please, pie, red plum blossom dishes!" (pie, means treat) The two sides must sing in harmony, and the rhythm and cut are matched, so that the following number competition can continue, otherwise the game cannot be played. Many people have asked me before, why do people in Wuhan put "red plum blossom vegetables" at the end of every sentence? According to my understanding, the original origin of Wuhan's Yilu boxing style cannot be verified. But what is certain is that the addition of "dishes with red plum blossoms" was added in the late period of the Cultural Revolution. "Cai" means "not good" or "so-so" in Wuhan dialect. For example, people in Wuhan say "so-and-so is very good", which means that you are not the wine, you are just trivial, serving food and wine. A Soviet song "Red Plum Blossoms Are Blooming" that was popular across the country during the Cultural Revolution once sung: "By the fields and rivers, red plum blossoms are blooming." A large number of young people who went to the mountains and countryside sang this song and went to the countryside. Moving to the borderland of the motherland, after many years, the Wuhan drinking order gradually evolved into "Please, pie, red plum blossom dishes!", which contains a lot of bitterness and helplessness, but it seems that there is So a little bit open-minded, and a little bit cynical.

In Wuhan, the old tradition of cutting drinking wine has become less and less common. What can be heard now are only a few wonderful couplets. Listen carefully, it's like poetry. And because it comes from the folk, it also has a strong market atmosphere. Chu Land has a profound cultural heritage. For thousands of years, the lyrics in the streets and alleys have a somewhat romantic literary flavor. If you don’t believe me, go to the Hubei Provincial Museum and take a look. The weapons unearthed from the Chu culture are all carved with dragons and phoenixes, and they are as exquisite as works of art. This is not as good as Qin's, soldiers and weapons. As a weapon for killing people, the Qin weapon is simple and simple, which reduces its aesthetic function to the lowest level and invisibly increases its spiritual and cultural lethality. Nothing more than Qin being able to unify the country and accomplish his great cause.

But having said that, there is an old saying: "Although Chu has three households, if you forget Qin, you must be Chu!" The romantic cultural atmosphere created by Chu culture would rather break than bend, but it also has another great power. As the saying goes, don't rush to be first when the water flows, the way of nature is the way of nature.

“A bare pole carries rice to Chengdu. Girls in Chengdu love rice, and I love flowers in Chengdu.” This is an ancient Hubei wine order. The person giving the order said, "If there is anyone who can't be picked up, you have already lost, and of course the wine will not be able to escape." In ancient times, drinkers must be quick-witted and have certain literary talents. The content of drinking orders ranges from astronomy to geography, poetry, lyrics, music, rhymes, flowers and birds, and scenery. The knowledge is extensive and all-encompassing. Colorful and colorful. In modern times, China's wine culture has gradually given way to business and officialdom, and is no longer the grand event it once was. But we can still vaguely see from this drinking order spread among the people in Hubei, the grand scene of Huguang filling Sichuan in the late Ming and early Qing dynasties, as well as the economic and cultural exchanges between Hubei and Sichuan. At that time, due to wars, plagues and natural disasters, Sichuan's population dropped sharply and the cultivated land was deserted. Under this specific historical condition, in order to solve the problem of labor force and food production in Sichuan, the Qing Dynasty adopted the measure of "immigration to reclaim wasteland". Immigrants from more than ten provinces across the country, including Hubei and Hunan, including Huguang Province, successively settled in Sichuan. Among them, Hubei and Hunan provinces have the most visitors. According to statistics, this immigration lasted for more than a hundred years, and more than one million people entered Sichuan, half of whom came from Hubei and Hunan provinces. Among the immigrants in Hubei Province, immigrants from Macheng occupy an important position. After understanding this history, you will know that it is not surprising that such a drinking order appears in Hubei.

Of course, there are some famous old wine orders that are also worth talking about. "The east wind blows, the war drums beat, who is afraid of whom in today's world" that took place during the Cultural Revolution clearly has the style of educated youth. And "Mighty and high-spirited, Liu Chuang walked into Han Ying's room, looking east and west,..." is a libretto from "Honghu Red Guards" to ridicule and relieve boredom. And "What time is the clock at Jianghan Pass? The three reds and four joys are the two Guangdongs." I'm afraid it has a lot to do with the opening of Hankou and the transformation of the political status of Guangdong and Wuhan during the Revolution of 1911.

In the past two decades, Wuhan’s drinking laws have also undergone many new changes. For example, because of the 1983 version of "The Legend of the Condor Heroes", a brand new character version of the drinking order appeared in Wuhan. "Evil in the East and Poison in the West, Ouyang Feng, Emperor of the South and Beggar Hong Qigong in the North. Yang Kang, Guo Jing and the old naughty boy, everyone wants to marry Huang Rong." It timely, quickly and accurately reflected some of the situations that the common people liked to see at that time. In recent years, Wuhan's drinking orders have become more personal and private, and public drinking orders are rarely heard of. It's similar to "climb the stairs, touch the platform, and such a big ingot rolls in. Congratulations on your fortune." The source is Wuchang Prison, and "The water of East Lake is green and green, and our relationship has just begun." I'm afraid it has something to do with Wuhan University. The young students are inseparable from the relationship.

Of course, all these drinking orders are just the cuts and lyrics before the fist fight. These lyrics are either tactful or sonorous, and require familiarity by both parties. Each person's one-line interjection or chanting has the meaning of "the jade flute is played in the Yellow Crane Tower, and the plum blossoms fall in May in Jiangcheng". Afterwards, in every punch fight, the fists must be kept close to the thumb, and the hat must be on the tail, which means the last few words of the drinking order. For example, if both parties say "Please, pie, dishes from red plum blossoms!", they must add "Seven tricks, dishes from red plum blossoms" during the guessing game. And so on.

More recently, new entertainment methods have changed many traditional understandings of wine, and have also changed many ways of drinking. Nowadays, the most common place to see drinking orders besides the wine table is in various bars. Popular things include Japanese boxing, Korean boxing, Hong Kong boxing and Taiwanese boxing. For example, the most popular "Two Bee Order" is full of childishness and is said to come from Hong Kong. The specific password is: "Two little bees, fly into the flowers, fly! Rock, scissors, paper, and then the winning party will slap someone in the face, once to the left, once to the right, and at the same time say "pop". If the guess is a tie, the loser will shake his head and shout "ah, ah"; if the guess is a tie, he will make two dubbing sounds and movements like kissing, and if he makes any mistakes, he will Drinking is required. This kind of game is suitable for two young people to play. It has a bit of flirting and is probably not suitable for old comrades. Otherwise, if you are over 50 years old, you will have to make two dubbing sounds while making kissing gestures. , I’m afraid it’s really weird.

Other popular drinking games are not unique to Wuhan, there are similar games like Dice 789 and Dice’s Big Talk (this is an ancient name). game), tiger stick chicken worm, poker, 7-over, 15-20, frog jump, beauty and hero, etc. One of the games is called "train driving", and the method of the game is, before starting. , everyone names a place to represent themselves. But the location cannot be repeated. After the game starts, assuming you are from Wuhan and another person is from Shanghai, you have to say: "Drive the train, drive the train in Wuhan." open. Everyone asked together: "Where to drive?" "You say: "Shanghai is leaving." Then the person representing Shanghai will immediately respond and say: "Shanghai's train is about to leave. Then everyone asked together: "Where to drive?" This person then chooses another game object and says: "Drive to such and such a place." "If the opponent hesitates for a moment and doesn't react, he loses.

This reminds me of a legendary story called "Shen Tucheng" in the Tang Dynasty. Legend has it that a commoner scholar named Shen Tucheng went to serve as a county captain, but the wind and snow blocked his journey and he had to stay in a thatched hut at night. The hospitable host prepares the table with wine and entertains the guests around the fire. The romantic and talented Shen Tucheng raised his glass and made an order: "If you are tired of drinking at night, you will not return until you are drunk." He quoted a line from the Book of Songs to make an elegant order. Unexpectedly, as soon as he finished speaking, the host's daughter sitting opposite giggled and said, "Where else could you go on such a windy and snowy night?" After saying that, the girl gave Shen Tucheng a passionate look, He blurted out the order: "The wind and rain are as dark as the sky, and the rooster crows endlessly." After hearing this, Shen Tucheng was amazed. He knew that the girl used the verses in "The Book of Songs? Zheng Feng? Wind and Rain" and omitted the last two lines of "Now that I have met a gentleman, Yunhu is not happy?" This shows that the girl has expressed her love to him implicitly and skillfully. So Shen Tucheng proposed to the girl's parents and they got married.

It’s just that such a story would never happen in the era of two little bees.

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