Summarize the changes of modern brewing industry in China.

The mystery of the origin of distilled liquor

When did China distilled liquor originate? At present, there are several theories about the origin in the Eastern Han Dynasty, the Tang Dynasty, the Song Dynasty and the Yuan Dynasty. Among them, the theory of the origin of the Yuan Dynasty originated from the old theory, which is evidenced by the records of people in the Yuan Dynasty, while the theory of the Eastern Han Dynasty and the theory of the Jin Dynasty are all based on handed down cultural relics or unearthed discoveries. However, Wang Saishi of Shandong Academy of Social Sciences and Ji Sun, an archaeologist of the National Museum, both suggested that the theory of the Yuan Dynasty was more reliable.

The saying that there was distilled liquor in the Eastern Han Dynasty originated from a bronze distiller in the Eastern Han Dynasty collected by Shanghai Museum. Ji Sun thinks that it should be conclusive to infer the distiller according to the structure of the vessel, but because of the sealing cover, evaporation chamber and condensation chamber of the kettle body, etc.

The lack of key components makes people question the theory that this device is used to steam wine. In addition, in the Eastern Han Dynasty, it was recorded that Dan Yao and toilet water were distilled by still, so it was really difficult to make wine with an unknown single utensil.

Age of origin.

One more thing, there is no water cooler on this distiller, and the alcohol consumption is too high, so it is not reasonable to be used as a distiller. Shanghai Museum has done the experiment of steaming wine, and the alcohol content can reach more than 20 degrees. And Han is obviously in the era of low alcohol consumption, and he will understand after reading so many relevant records of drinking.

Throughout the historical documents, from the Eastern Han Dynasty to the Song Dynasty, there was no sign of wine distillation in the form of words. The historical materials about "shochu" and "distilled liquor" in Tang and Song Dynasties are scattered, but before Song Dynasty, shochu did not belong to the category of distilled liquor, but refers to the grain fermented wine which was heated at low temperature. "Steaming wine" in Song Dynasty also refers to sterilizing wine by heating and preserving it for a long time. After the Yuan Dynasty, the so-called shochu was distilled liquor, but today's so-called liquor was officially named as shochu after the founding of New China.

The theory of Jin Dynasty originated from a distiller made in Xishanzui Village, Qinglong County, Chengde City, Hebei Province 1975. It consists of two parts, the lower part is a kettle and the upper part is a cooler. When it is nested up and down, it can be used as a distiller.

Yes, it is very similar to the modern pot steamer. The local cultural relics department has also tried it, but the amount of alcohol produced is very small and the alcohol content is very low. It should be that the local experiment does not conform to the method of taking wine in Yuan Dynasty. Ji Sun also found that,

At that time, the drip tile of the Yuan Dynasty was unearthed in the place where the distiller was unearthed, so he tended to think that this artifact did not actually belong to the Jin Dynasty or was an old thing of the Yuan Dynasty. If distilled according to the Yuan Dynasty, it will be brewed with jujube wine and Portugal.

Wine, distilled with this unearthed cultural relic, will certainly be able to steam out good quality wine. If this thing is the product of the Yuan Dynasty, then everything is very easy to explain, and documents and objects constitute an interpretation system.

Many experts compared this kind of vessel and found that it was consistent with the shape and liquid distillation method of the distiller described in the literature of Yuan Dynasty. In addition, in addition to single-person utensils, Jiangxi also discovered the relic of brewing distilled liquor in the Yuan Dynasty-Du Li Invisible.

Tang shochu workshop site. In June, 2002, when Lidu Town, Nanchang, Jiangxi Province reorganized the old factory building of the town's winery, it was found that there were a lot of brewing relics below. Later, after textual research by the cultural relics department, it was found that this is a particularly durable place.

Rare shochu workshop. There is also a wine cellar and a cellar fermentation pool. Ten archaeological discoveries of that year.

Except for unearthed cultural relics, the records of old history began in the Yuan Dynasty. For example, "Compendium of Materia Medica" records that "shochu is not an ancient method, but was created in the Yuan Dynasty. Its method is to use strong liquor and distiller's grains steam to expose it in containers."

Wang Sai said that foreign distiller systems may have been brought back to the Central Plains by Mongolian expeditions. The Mongols made expeditions to Central Asia, West Asia and Europe, and the western still method was introduced to China. The winemakers in China discovered the secret and changed the original equipment for steaming wine into steamed grain wine.

Steamed wine was originally called "Araghi wine" by Yuan people, and its etymology was Arabic "Araq", which means "sweating and shochu". Soju is the main name of distilled liquor in China in Yuan Dynasty. This is what the lyrics of Yuan Zaju Sanqu say: "I am a rare marshal in the world, and I never leave my mouth." I forgot everything recently, so I remember shochu and yellow wine. "

Youren Xu in Yuan Dynasty mentioned in "The Supreme Collection": "The world is full of fire and water, and the wine is exposed and the gas is clear. The autumn sky is not so bad, although it can be defeated by wine. Its method has gone out of the western regions, from the square to your home, and now it is all over the sky in the Han Dynasty. Translated into Araghi.

Clouds. "According to Youren Xu, the earliest distilled liquor also came from the Western Regions, originally owned by the imperial court, and later introduced to the rich and noble families. It didn't take ordinary people long to master this brewing method.

Because yeast can't continue to ferment under high concentration of alcohol, before the Song Dynasty, the alcohol concentration of wine obtained by China fermentation method was difficult to exceed 20 degrees. Yuan et al. obtained the method of distilling liquor. By using the characteristics of different substances in liquor with different volatility, the most volatile alcohol was distilled and the distilled liquor with the highest concentration of about 70% was obtained. In the Yuan Dynasty, people distilled wine, first fermented it with distiller's yeast in a way similar to yellow rice wine, and then distilled it into wine. Which belongs to a typical China distillation brewing method. People in Yuan Dynasty not only brewed grain wine by distillation, but also included wine and other kinds of wine.

When distilled liquor was first invented, people were still afraid of this highly alcoholic liquor. In early records, it was said that it was "hot and poisonous", "Halakiyo poisoned people" and "drinking it made people die through liquid". Ji Sun believes that,

"This reflects that I was not exposed to such spirits for a long time at that time, and I still had some ideological obstacles when drinking." People who drink heavily are gradually formed in the following hundreds of years.

From the Yuan Dynasty to the Ming Dynasty, although shochu had been invented, few people drank it. At that time, the obvious confrontation was not between shochu and yellow rice wine, but between wine produced in the south and wine produced in the north, which was also an important era in the history of wine development in China.

Beijiu has a vast territory, represented by Beijing, Hebei, Shandong and Henan. In addition to the vast territory, the production process is also very traditional. The production of yellow rice wine, shochu and dew wine is called respecting the ancient method and the consumption is also high. Nine difficult Jiangsu and Zhejiang as the core producing areas, has been vigorously developing new products. In fact, Shaoxing yellow rice wine is not that old, and it contains many new technologies. After the mid-Qing Dynasty, Beijiu's reputation was gradually replaced by Jiu Nan. He Fei: The former new technology became the mainstream at that time, and now it has become an ancient law and a small school. The difference between the two regional styles became the biggest feature of the wine industry at that time.

At that time, yellow rice wine was dominant in the whole fermented wine industry, and the brewing technology was more mature and perfect. People call wine with long fermentation time, dark color and storage resistance "old wine". Many "old wines" in northern wines are also very popular in the south because of their pure workmanship. For example, Zhou Lianggong, a Fujian native, said that "the northern wine is strange".

In the system of Beijiu, many classic yellow rice wines were born in Hebei, among which Tibetan wine and Iraqi wine are typical Beipai yellow rice wines, which have enjoyed a good reputation since the Ming Dynasty. In the early Qing Dynasty, there was a saying that "Tibetan wine is famous in Jiu Shao". Yellow rice wine is natural. Cangzhou restaurant has been drinking water from hidden springs and Magu springs in the canal river outside the city, so Cang wine is also called "Magu Spring Wine". Qing people praised Cang wine for winning with water. By the middle and early Qing Dynasty, Cang wine was still well-known, and it was equally divided with Shao wine, ranking first in the north and south respectively. Zhu Yizun, a celebrity in the early Qing Dynasty, commented: "Beijiu, Cangjiu, Yijiu and Lujia are all top grades, and Cangjiu is." According to people's records at that time, mung beans, almonds and other materials were put in it, and every step was done very carefully.

Even after the popularity of shochu in the mid-Qing Dynasty, Cangjiu, as a representative of Beijiu, maintained its reputation for a long time. At that time, in the poet's poems, there was often a record of giving pale wine as a gift to each other.

Benefiting from the good water quality in Yizhou, Yijiu was described as "pure spring and delicious taste", which reached its peak in the late Ming and early Qing dynasties and was also very popular in shops in Beijing. When people talk about northern wine, they often put Yi wine and Cang wine in the first place.

In Shanxi, the origin of Fenjiu, yellow wine is also very popular. Xiangling, Luzhou and Linfen in Taiyuan all produce high-quality yellow rice wine. Medicine is added to the koji of Xiangling wine, which is very individual. At that time, its popularity surpassed that of Fenjiu. At that time,

The popular bamboo leaf green belongs to dew wine, and according to the technology, it is not as simple as brewing with shochu in modern times. Until the early Qing Dynasty, shochu was only one of the popular liquors, and did not occupy an overwhelming advantage.

There are two kinds of northern yellow rice wine: sweet and bitter. For example, Shanxi yellow rice wine is called "sweet south wine" and "bitter south wine". The yellow rice wine in Beijing is called "sweet fried" and "bitter clear"; Shandong yellow rice wine can be divided into sweetness and bitterness. Sweet rice wine tastes sweet and greasy, and there is no alcohol. Bitter yellow rice wine tastes like southern wine, and Shandong people usually like to drink the latter.

But with the passage of time, people don't know that Hebei and other places used to be the producing areas of famous yellow rice wine, and the brewing technology and relics have disappeared.

There is no difference between sweetness and bitterness in Jiu Nan. From the very beginning, the production of yellow rice wine in the south of the Yangtze River introduced new technology, unified procedures and unified wine spectrum regulations, unlike in the north. Jiu Nan soon became a whole style and gradually spread in the north. By the middle of Qing Dynasty, Jiu Nan finally defeated Beijiu and became a precious gift.

Jiu Nan also has a reason to win, because when Jiu Nan is transported to the north, it will not go bad when it is cold, while when it is transported to the south, it will go bad when it is hot in summer.

Jiu Nan's famous flower carving, Taiwan carving and daughter red are all produced in Shaoxing, Zhejiang. Since the early Qing Dynasty, the quality of Shaoxing wine has been greatly improved and gradually entered its heyday. At that time, every household brewed Shaoxing wine, and experts divided it.

Analysis, mainly because the soil and water here are suitable for brewing yellow rice wine, leading to many large workshops, brewing technology has formed a unified procedure and norms, and is divided into refined villages and Guangzhuang villages, which can be exported. The former is the top grade in Beijing, and the latter is.

Sales as far away as Nanyang, Guangdong.

During the Taichang period of the Ming Dynasty, Fu, a branch official of the Qing Dynasty, kept Shaoxing wine. The aged wine has been concentrated into wine paste, amber, thick and highly concentrated. Take a piece of preserved egg, mix it with 20-year-old Shao Chen 10 kg, and drink it after adding 10 kg of new wine.

Yellow rice wine needs to be drunk like this when it is old. Scholar Zhou Shao recalled that during the Anti-Japanese War, they opened Tangan Dragon Wine in Cixi for two years. After the altar was opened, the wine was only 1/3, and the color turned red and purple, which was very fragrant. They didn't know it was mixed with wine, so they drank it directly. As a result, they got drunk after only a few drinks and woke up the next day.

How is the performance of shochu at this time? At that time, shochu continued to develop on the basis of the technology of the Yuan Dynasty, and was more and more widely accepted, which gradually influenced the change of people's drinking style. Fenjiu was very popular at that time, and the locals called it Huojiu. When buying soju from other places, people will choose Fenjiu. At that time, the governor of Gansu recorded that Fenjiu was the most popular wine in the city.

However, shochu did not shake the dominant position of yellow rice wine.

During the Ming and Qing dynasties, shochu was still limited to the drinking range of the civilian class. The fashion of drinking in high society is to drink local yellow wine. In many people's eyes, only people from inappropriate backgrounds like to drink that kind of wine with high alcohol content.

In order to seek excitement, there is an aria in Qing Shiduo that "yellow wine is expensive to buy and white wine is cheap to buy", which reflects the huge difference in cost between yellow wine and white wine at that time.

Moreover, at that time, shochu was not popular among the northern people, mainly because the low-grade folk homemade yellow wine was very sweet and could be used as a daily drink, suitable for all ages, not as spicy as shochu.

Wang Saishi believed that the total output of shochu surpassed that of yellow rice wine and became the main drinking wine for China people. It must have developed slowly after Kangxi, and it didn't stabilize until the middle of Qing Dynasty.

Illustrations depicting folk distillation workshops in the Qing Dynasty During the long years from the Ming Dynasty to the middle of the Qing Dynasty, no wine could challenge the dominant position of yellow rice wine. Although other wines have been highly concentrated, at that time, all kinds of fruit wines, including flowers and fruits, were matched.

Fruits and wines brewed or directly involved in fermentation are very popular. The interest of the upper class in the Ming Dynasty in wine kept the waste heat of the Yuan Dynasty, and wine still appeared in festivals, parties and gifts. In the novel Jin Ping Mei, grapes

Wine was a daily drink for Ximen Qing and his family, which also reflected the social background of drinking at that time.

After the Ming Dynasty, fruit wine brewing was not limited to wine, and there were many kinds of fruit wine, including persimmon wine, watermelon wine, jujube wine and pear wine in the north. There is a famous litchi wine in Lingnan area. Not only that, but also the methods of making wine are diversified. Fruits with high sugar content are directly fermented into wine, such as cider. However, under the background of confrontation between Jiu Nan and Beijiu, yellow rice wine and shochu in Ming and Qing Dynasties, flower and fruit wine was limited to individual flower and fruit producing areas or drinkers' personal preferences.

War and the rise of wine

The ruler's hobby greatly influenced the acceptance of the lower class. The Qing court seldom drank the wine that the Ming people loved. The wine brewed by China traditional Daqu was gradually abandoned in Qing Dynasty and became a masterpiece.

However, the popularity of shochu is not due to the influence of taste. On the contrary, the economy has played a vital role. In the early Qing Dynasty, the harness of the Yellow River and the "washing sand" in the middle and lower reaches needed a lot of straw, which led to the increase of sorghum planting area. Sorghum tastes bad as food, but the quality of distilled liquor is better than other grains, and the alcohol content is higher. Therefore, brewing soju has become the most effective way to digest these miscellaneous grains. When alcohol was banned in the early years of Qianlong in the Qing Dynasty, Li Jue, the governor of Zhili, used this as a reason to play: "Although the sorghum produced by Xuanhua House is bitter, it can satisfy hunger in a fierce year and be suitable for listening in a good year."

During the 200 years from Qin Long, the Ming Dynasty, which devoted itself to harnessing the Yellow River, to the mid-Qianlong period of the Qing Dynasty, the northern shochu with sorghum as raw material developed greatly. After the Qing dynasty, the output of shochu in the north increased rapidly, and cooking pots were spread all over the north.

Provinces. The history book says that "there are countless shochu vendors in the city." In the Qing dynasty, when food was difficult, the calls and measures to ban shochu never stopped. From the early Qing Dynasty to the Qianlong period, although officials were lax in good years,

It was banned in the "cooking pot policy", but sorghum wine-making has become a channel for many northerners to obtain economic benefits. In the year of sorghum harvest, some local officials will take the initiative to sue the court to lift the prohibition and let the people burn it.

Wine is profitable and enriches the local economy.

Beijiu shochu began to surpass yellow rice wine, but after the middle of Qing Dynasty, the social drinking custom began to tilt towards shochu in an all-round way. Wang Saishi believes that the main reason is: "After the middle of Qing Dynasty, people's living standards have been declining, and the drinking economic value of liquor has become more economical." Specifically, the alcohol content of yellow rice wine is low, but the price is high, so it is not easy to get drunk when drinking in large quantities, and the total drinking cost is high. Soju has a high alcohol content and is easy to get drunk, so the drinking cost is much lower than that of yellow rice wine.

Fang Bao once wrote in the article that yellow rice wine is not resistant to release and transportation, and its production is also limited by time. It can't be brewed in spring, summer and autumn, but shochu can be brewed almost all year round. People who get drunk after drinking one or two glasses of soju have to drink several kilograms of yellow wine. Generally, it is impossible for China people to "drink ten times?"

In contrast to the expansion of shochu, the decline of yellow rice wine in this period. In the late Qing Dynasty, peasant uprisings in northern and southern provinces continued, and wars broke out everywhere. Shaoxing rice wine's canal route to Beijing and land traffic to the south are often blocked by war, and rice wine has been

It is inconvenient to knock and store for a long time, which seriously hinders sales. Because it is convenient for storage and long-distance trafficking, shochu often chooses to buy wine from other places in areas where the wine industry is underdeveloped.

After the mid-Qing dynasty, the war often made the crop harvest worse. At this time, the raw materials of rice wine, millet and glutinous rice, were not enough for ordinary people to eat, so the output of rice wine dropped sharply. Sorghum is inedible, but brewing can bring extra income to the people. Guangxu's "Pingyao County Records", Volume 1 and Volume 2, records: "It is better to plant sorghum than to eat it. Therefore, people have to use their annual income to make wine and turn it into money. Or as far as the directly affiliated department, as far as the west to the middle of Qin dynasty, selling goods all over the country and earning a little profit. After the money and food are spent, the funds are used for daily use. "

After hundreds of years of expansion, shochu finally reached the peak of output in the late Qing Dynasty.

In the 1930s and 1940s, old people selling shochu on the roadside in Beijing changed their traditional drinking habits from yellow rice wine to shochu. At first, the high alcohol content of shochu opposed by Chinese people was gradually accepted. Yuan Mei in Qing Dynasty

"Suiyuan Food List" said: "If you eat soju, it is better to be ruthless. ..... I mean shochu, a bachelor among people, and a cruel official in the county. Heroes must be bachelors, except thieves, who must be cruel officials, to drive away the cold and eliminate stagnation, so as to make wine.

I can't. It can be seen that "rather cruel" became the drinking choice of many people in the late Qing Dynasty. Many people began to pursue the strong stimulation that soju can bring to people.

The brewing process of Chinese wine is the process of increasing alcohol content. In Qing Dynasty, shochu always pursued high alcohol content. With the increase of alcohol content, people's drinking volume generally decreases. Liang Shaoren, a native of Qiantang in Qing Dynasty, wrote an essay about two Qiuyu temples.

Tell an interesting story about drinking a high degree of soju: One year Liang traveled to Xiaoshan, and local friend Zhou invited him to drink a kind of soju called "Lihua Chun". Liang only drank one cup and Zhou took it away. Zhou is a heavy drinker, but he only drank two glasses.

Small cup. Liang has been intoxicated with this glass of wine all day. In the article, Liang used what the ancients called "nine times a thousand days" as a metaphor for this highly alcoholic shochu. It is estimated that the degree of this wine will not be lower than 60 degrees.

The major towns of shochu in this period were mainly concentrated in the north, and Shanxi was the most prosperous place in the north. The quantity and yield of brewing sorghum in Fenyang area of Shanxi reached its peak. Li Ruzhen listed 55 kinds of famous wines in Qing Dynasty in the 96th episode of his novel "Mirror Flower Edge", ranking Fenjiu in the first place.

Some people in the south are still rejecting shochu, and some people are still claiming that it is poisonous. For example, Qu Dajun, a Cantonese, thinks that drinking soju is a legacy of the Yuan Dynasty, and it is very spicy, and there is too much anger in his heart. At the same time, something interesting happened.

In order to reduce the alcohol content, Cantonese people began to add water to high-alcohol liquor, and artificial low-alcohol liquor appeared in China: one is to reduce the alcohol content, and the other is to save money. It was called "Hejiu" at that time.

However, with the further promotion of shochu, the south also began to accept it. In some areas, it squeezed yellow rice wine out of the market, such as Yangzhou. With the economic decline in the late Qing Dynasty, all kinds of snow wine, papaya wine, acanthopanax senticosus and Shaoxing wine popular in early years became one kind of wine: sorghum wine.

Modern China and the Opportunity of Southwest Wine

In the early years of the Republic of China, there was no concept of famous brand shochu in China. Even though Maotai is gradually known, most people think that it is just a distant and expensive liquor, which has little to do with their own lives. Zhang Zhongxing's idea is probably

On behalf of ordinary intellectuals, he wrote in his article that wine, "as long as you don't get angry at the entrance, you can get a little drunk after two cups, and you are qualified." Beyond the limit, chasing famous brands, with a great price for the so-called temporary fragrance.

Taste, not worth it. "

This is especially true for ordinary people. If ordinary people in Beijing drink for nothing, it is difficult to buy a good Erguotou. They all choose the big jars run by Shanxi people. The jar was covered with a wooden lid and used as a table. Several old brands of wine are all good, that is,

In order to ensure its purity, it is probably inevitable to mix water without doping pigeon droppings, red gongs and other strong substances. Jin Kemu also said that there is no need to be confined to any kind of wine. In the long run, any kind of wine will do. He drinks two kinds of wine for nothing, including Fenjiu, and

Lotus white, Aria, Cortex Acanthopanacis, red and white roses all feel good after drinking for a long time. This is an era when liquor has not been sold nationwide. No famous liquor can be famous all over the world, and everyone knows it and is eager to drink it.

Not to mention ordinary people, even senior officials at that time may not understand and appreciate good wine. According to Tang records, in 1935, the Wuhan appeasement office sent anyone to Sichuan to talk about the southwest warlord Liu Xiang.

Give him a lot of Huisha Moutai. The so-called Huishan Moutai is to smooth all the stone cracks in the fermentation pool with fine river sand, and then blend them with glutinous rice pulp to ensure strict guarantee. The fermented wine has no fire, so this batch of wine is packed in clay pots.

The outside is sealed with mulberry paper and brought back to Wuhan. He and others are used to drinking Jiangnan yellow wine, but they are not interested in this batch of wine. On the contrary, they thought the pottery jar was very rustic and never drank it. When they were given to Don, many of them evaporated.

Half. This is a famous wine in Tang Jiu. I had a drink this time. He likes mellow taste. At that time, Tang was attached to the Salt Industry Department of the Republic of China. At that time, he was on a business trip in other places, so he could visit a country that rose during the Republic of China.

A batch of good wines, such as Fenjiu in Shanxi, Xifeng in Shaanxi and Suqian in Jiangxi, including Mianzhu Daqu, all have their own strong points and rich flavors. However, among many wines, he still loves Maotai best.

After the Revolution of 1911, although the establishment of industry has become a new trend of thought, the brewing industry in China, a traditional industry with strong local genes, is still a relatively small workshop system, and with government control, the brewing industry has not developed greatly. Republic of China (19 12- 1949)

Like the Qing government, the government increased the collection of wine tax and had a special collection agency. In addition, according to the customs tax records, alcohol is listed as a luxury, and the amount collected is as high as 70%. In the case of a slight famine, local governments still

It is natural that the national economy and people's livelihood are the mainstay and the policy of banning brewing is frequently implemented. It is difficult for small workshops to sell wine all over the country.

If it weren't for War of Resistance against Japanese Aggression, the political center of China would turn to the southwest, and it's still unknown when the fine wine of Chuangui's generation would become famous in the world.

The wine genes in southern Sichuan and northern Guizhou are very good. First, the natural conditions are good, and the wine river has been flowing, waiting to play a huge role one day, which depends on the great development of the wine industry. Second, during the Ming and Qing Dynasties, the wine industry changed.

Like the chemical industry in Maotai area, it turns out that local shochu is also brewed here, and the practice is simple. The opportunity for good wine has come, which is a by-product brought by Sichuan salt trade. At that time, Sichuan Salt was managed. In the early Qing Dynasty, salt merchants in Shanxi and Shaanxi controlled Sichuan salt.

Guizhou's transportation and marketing, because salt merchants are not used to making wine with local soil, is very important. Some people know the brewing technology, and even if they are not skilled, they hire technicians to bring the brewing methods of their hometown to the local area, which is in line with the excellent local climate.

The combination of soil and water environment has produced better wine than my hometown. Compared with the earliest local wine, the newly brewed wine is fragrant, sweet and spicy without stinging the throat. Since the mid-Qing Dynasty, the liquor here has gradually stepped out of the small town of Maotai and spread to the whole country.

Government control is tight and loose. With the end of the Opium War, in order to raise the salary and increase the fiscal revenue of the Qing government, the local government relaxed the restrictions on the traditional brewing industry, and the brewing industry in the southwestern provinces gradually developed.

During the Republic of China, the trend of transferring salt industry capital to liquor industry promoted the development of liquor industry in this area. During this period, the development of Southwest Liquor became the driving force of modern liquor road in China. "Sichuan province field paste soil.

Wow, people are rich, wine is rich, and bad houses are everywhere. There are especially many private bakers. "

Since the mid-Qing Dynasty, Sichuan has not experienced a long-term large-scale war. The combination of wine-making technology and consumption demand brought by immigrants into Sichuan with the original wine-making foundation of this province enabled the wine production in Sichuan to develop continuously from the late Qing Dynasty to the early Republic of China. During the development of Sichuan wine industry in the Republic of China, a number of famous wines were gradually formed, which became an important stage in the history of famous wines in Sichuan.

Luzhou Daqu, Mianzhu Daqu and other Daqu liquors were very famous in Sichuan in the Qing Dynasty and began to become famous throughout the country.

There are also some liquors that gradually became famous after entering the Republic of China, such as Quanxing Daqu, miscellaneous grains wine, Langjiu and Gu Feng wine. Langjiu was formally established in 1903, running through the Republic of China. At that time, it was an extremely noble wine in the province.

Second only to maotai. The government has also set monopoly prices for it, and the monopoly prices set in previous years are the highest among wines. Miscellaneous grains wine is the predecessor of Yibin Wuliangye. At first, it was made of sorghum, rice, glutinous rice, corn, buckwheat and other grains.

It is made by mixed fermentation and distillation in a certain proportion, but the taste is not satisfactory. 1928, Deng Zijun, the owner of Li Chuanyong's liquor baking workshop, used red sorghum, rice, glutinous rice, wheat and corn as raw grain.

Material, made into a mellow "miscellaneous grains wine", when the local Yong ying bureau document Yang Huiquan thought that the wine was good in color, aroma and taste, and was made from five kinds of grains, so he named this Yibin high-quality miscellaneous grains wine "Five".

Grain liquid ",gradually famous, the scale of production has also expanded.

Today's famous Sichuan wines all grew up in this period. Before modern times, the circulation of consumer goods in China depended on canals and other rivers. Before the appearance of the railway, the circulation and spread of Shaoxing wine were unparalleled. Compared with Shaoxing wine and Fenjiu, the promotion of Guizhou wine and Sichuan wine lags behind because of the disadvantages of geography and transportation.

According to the price comparison in Guangxu period, 1 kg of maotai liquor is equivalent to 40 kg of rice. 1927 After the Northern Expedition, China's economy entered the "golden decade", but Moutai still depended on the prosperity of opium trade between Sichuan and Guizhou.

Between. However, Maotai liquor in this period has become a famous wine in southwest China, which is favored by many celebrities and politicians. But the real development was after the government of the Republic of China moved its capital to Chongqing. Because of geographical reasons, the original mainstream rice wine has become biased.

At that time, Chongqing also produced rice wine. Feng Zikai wrote in the article that Chongqing also produces yellow rice wine, but the quality is far less than that of Zhejiang yellow rice wine and Shao Chen produced in Jiangsu and Zhejiang provinces. It can only be transported from Shanghai by plane, which is equivalent to smuggling and is very difficult.

Yes, so, although Chongqing liquor produced in Chongqing is not fragrant or spicy, it can be made do with drinking, but more people choose Qu liquor popular in Sichuan.

Feng Zaiwen recalled that he first came to Chongqing at 1940. In Chongqing, he didn't drink rice wine or foreign wine. They are all Daqu, the most famous of which is Luzhou Daqu, which has the advantages of not being drunk and high alcohol content, but it is the first time.

The mainlanders who drink it are not used to it, and they think it is too spicy. The fire line has always been in their stomachs. At that time, people in Jiangsu and Zhejiang were not used to liquor. Feng said that he had drunk Shaanxi imperial concubine wine at his cousin's house in Shanghai and passed out for a whole period of time.

Jesus Christ.

In Chongqing, besides Daqu, there are Maotai. Feng described Maotai as fragrant and Daqu as fragrant. In Chongqing at that time, Maotai was also a treasure. When you invite guests, you will definitely not use Maotai. Only a few friends will get together to drink maotai.

At that time, a large number of cultural celebrities, experts and scholars gathered in Chongqing and generally began to drink Daqu. Feng's friend, an ophthalmologist who came back from studying abroad, used Daqu to make coffee and orange juice to make cocktails because there was no foreign wine.

Because of the shortage of food, the Chongqing government occasionally bans alcohol, but the wine industry is almost banned repeatedly, which is also a rule in China. At that time, there were many pubs in Chongqing and Sichuan, selling local Daqu, and everyone ate wine.

Even if there are peanuts, there are not many dishes, but many people in the market have a good capacity for alcohol, and many people can drink a stack of white wine glasses in a short time. Another drinking party that civilians like is to eat Maodu hotpot, which is a rich food.

Only people at the bottom love to try and eat hot pot, and only Daqu liquor can match it, which makes Daqu liquor more popular. After these intellectuals returned to Shanghai and Beijing, the good wine in the southwest was not forgotten, so gradually.

Have a national reputation.

Another opportunity for the famous wine in Southwest China came from 1935. The Red Army of Chinese workers and peasants crossed Chishui in Maotai, thus people planted the complex of Maotai, laying the foundation for its future status as a "national wine". "Diplomatic ceremony

In fact, the saying that "no wine can't make Maotai" originated in the Republic of China. During the "Xi Incident", Zhou Enlai flew from Yan 'an to Xi 'an, and Zhang Xueliang entertained Zhou Enlai with his favorite Moutai. After War of Resistance against Japanese Aggression's victory, he flew to Chongqing to negotiate with Jiang.

The wine served is also Maotai.

Conclusion: * * Liquor World in the Republic of China

At the beginning of the founding of New China, shochu was still using many confusing terms in the Republic of China: Liang liquor, local shochu, Fenjiu, white wine, small wine and so on. At that time, there was no alcohol meter to measure the alcohol content of liquor, and there was no unified standard, which was the so-called shopping malls and shops.

At sixes and sevens, it's called original dry, original wine, white dry, dry wine and cannon wine. In order to standardize industrialization, after the founding of New China, this kind of shochu with similar technology and raw materials was called liquor.

Mainland winemaking workshops began to carry out cooperative transformation, and the real industrial production of liquor began. The first problem of industrial production is food supply. In the mid-1950s, grain in China began to be purchased and sold in a unified way.

Sales and wineries have to be included in the plan before they can enjoy food rationing, so small workshops gradually closed down or closed down. Only in some areas with particularly rich food, there are still some small wine workshops of cooperatives, which are not private.

Yes, the traditional master-apprentice brewing workshops in China began to be incorporated into the industrial system.

With the unified purchase and marketing of grain, liquor has also been brought into the unified purchase and marketing mechanism. Similar to the situation in the late Qing Dynasty, liquor with high alcohol content and relatively more grain-saving was gradually popularized throughout the country, while yellow rice wine with less economic value than liquor was only preserved in a few areas of the country, such as Shaoxing and Jiangsu and Zhejiang provinces. Many areas that didn't drink liquor before began to drink liquor.

1963 Eight famous wines were selected in the second wine tasting: Kweichow Moutai, Sichuan Wuliangye, Anhui Distillery, Sichuan Luzhou Laojiao Tequ, Sichuan Quanxing Daqu, Shaanxi xifeng liquor, Shanxi Fenjiu and Guizhou Dong.

Wine. This wine tasting will change the history that liquor has only varieties and no brands. Prior to this, there were dozens of Jiu Feng producers and dozens of Luzhou liquor producers in Fengxiang County. After that, wineries all over the country were gradually nationalized.

It became a family world. Comment on the practical benefits brought by famous wines, first of all, the advantages of circulation permission. Since liberation, because of transportation control, any product cannot be transported to other places if it fails to enter the plan. The second one is good.

More importantly, it can maintain production under the condition of insufficient food. Both Kweichow Moutai and LU ZHOU LAO JIAO CO.,LTD Co., Ltd. can also have special supply channels in difficult times to ensure the maintenance of wine production.