Qilu cultural code in pancakes

Pancakes are unpretentious but all-inclusive, just like the hearts of Shandong people. The excellent qualities of thrift, honesty and diligence have also been spread into layers of pancakes by Shandong people-

Qilu cultural code in pancakes

Pie chart of murals unearthed from Song Tomb in Gaocun, Dengfeng, Henan Province

For a long time, "Scallion Pancake" seems to be the standard of Shandong people's diet.

No matter how beautiful the green onions are, they need pancakes. Shandong's green onions and pancakes have alternately influenced and achieved each other in the cultural exchange between North and South. In that era when cars and horses were slow, Shandong people traveled to Kanto or Tianjin and Beijing, and many people had burritos in their bags. After the fireworks dispersed, how many passwords of Qilu culture were contained in the pancakes?

"Before fire and food" means pancakes.

In fact, pancakes are not unique to Shandong, and there are many kinds of pancakes in the north; In Shandong, people in only some areas often eat pancakes.

In the area where pancakes are the staple food, there are many legends about their origin. For example, pancakes originated from the worship of the sun by ancient ancestors. Meng Jiangnv brought pancakes when she cried at the Great Wall. It may have been invented by Zhuge Liang during his March, or it may have something to do with the Huang Chao Uprising, or it may have been brought by Shanxi immigrants in the early Ming Dynasty. ...

Tracing back to the origin of pancakes, there is a long road to evolution. As a kind of historical pasta, pancakes can only be found in archaeological relics, murals or handed down texts because they are difficult to preserve.

In ancient times, although there were no real objects in pancakes, the tools for making pancakes-seeds-may remain and become historical evidence. With the help of archaeological data, people have a relatively clear understanding of the origin of pancakes.

198 1 In the spring of, archaeologists discovered a large number of dish-shaped pottery when excavating the Yangshao cultural site in Yingtai, Xingyang, Henan Province. It is rare that one of them is intact. This pottery is disc-shaped and has three tile-shaped feet. Pottery has a smooth surface and a rough inner wall, and a thick layer of smoke is attached. It should be used in a pot, three feet on the ground, fire in the pot, and food on the plate. Experts believe that it has been used for thousands of years and is still used as a tool for cooking food today. Because of its texture, it is called pottery.

In fact, the pottery cymbals at the Qingtai site are relatively mature. Judging from the development law of material culture, after a long period of evolution, it is obvious that there should be a long process of origin and development.

Previously, in the eyes of many researchers, the ancestors took a "grain-eating" road in their diet, that is, they shelled the grain and cooked it directly, then ground it into flour and used it to make food, which was more popular in Qin and Han Dynasties. In this regard, Wang, a researcher at the Institute of Archaeology, Chinese Academy of Social Sciences, believes that the discovery and confirmation undoubtedly show that the tradition of "pasta" is very long. "We determined from the study of pancakes that there was Tao Xun who baked pancakes in the Neolithic Age, saying that there was no tradition of pasta in ancient China."

There should be some genetic overlap in composition and thickness between baked food on pottery and pancakes now.

1500 years ago, pancakes gradually spread in Shandong. Emperor Gaozu of the Northern Qi Dynasty took "how to die and how to answer" as a riddle, which made people guess. Zulugda is a Turkic language, which translates into Chinese as "combination of front fire and food", and "combination of front fire and food" just constitutes the word "pancake". According to Beiqi, there are now Shandong, Shanxi, Hebei, Henan and other places, which shows that Shandong has eaten pancakes.

There were frequent wars in ancient Shandong. When people have an accident, they often bury something underground. The seeds unearthed in the cellar are generally large in size and are practical instruments with use value. Some cellars even find many seeds. "In Miaojiazhuang Village, Yaodianzi Town, Yishui County, Linyi City, the cellar of Liao and Jin Dynasties was discovered, including a shovel with the same shape as it is now. This shows that the shape of Shandong pancakes was initially formed. " An analysis of Miao Yannian, a scholar of literature and history in Linyi.

"Round as a full moon, as big as a bronze pheasant, as thin as stream paper, and as colorful as a yellow crane." Li Zuju, an expert in Zichuan literature and history, said that Pu Songling, a writer in the Qing Dynasty, described the shape, color and fragrance of pancakes in the Pancake Fu. "Mr. Pu also said that if you change to buckwheat batter, the color of pancakes will shine like white silk; If you mix sorghum noodles, it will be like the sunset in the western hills, and the afterglow will reflect and the sunset will rise. "

Maximize the spread of survival wisdom and skills.

In Shandong, such as Linyi, Rizhao, Taian, Zaozhuang and other places, pancakes are the daily staple food of many people; Jinan, Weifang and Zibo are adjacent to the core food areas, which are occasionally eaten by people. There are fewer consumers in other prefecture-level cities.

Why are pancakes carried forward in Shandong and become the "shoulders" of the food circle? In addition to being closely related to Shandong's geography, climate and economy, it also runs through Qilu's unique humanistic atmosphere.

Pancakes are made from a wide range of raw materials, such as soybeans, millet, sorghum, corn and even sweet potatoes, provided that they are ground into paste with a stone mill. At present, there are fragrant rice pancakes, chestnut pancakes, persimmon pancakes and shepherd's purse pancakes, which are different in color and taste.

Throughout the pancake-eating areas in Shandong, there is one thing in common-mountainous areas. Of course, not all places with mountains eat pancakes, but the areas where pancakes are the staple food are basically backed by mountains, mainly the present Luzhong Mountain area and Yimeng Mountain area.

The output of grain crops in ancient mountainous areas was low, and the people had two meals a day and occasionally three meals. Imagine that if people had harvested a lot of food at that time, they might prefer the former between soft white flour steamed bread and coarse grain pancakes.

In a relatively harsh environment, in the hard work year after year, the ancestors relied on pancakes to maximize their survival wisdom and skills. Pu Songling once wrote about the hardships of people's lives, to the effect that Shandong people were unlucky and suffered from severe famine one after another, and the beans scattered in Nanshan were as precious as pearls. During the famine, people came up with an ingenious way to make pancakes: pick green leaves from pepper and elm, mix them and soak them into thick paste, until they appear on the tobacco with quinoa, and the color is soft and lush.

During the Song and Yuan Dynasties, especially in the Ming and Qing Dynasties, the staple food structure of "Five Grains" changed, and a large number of crops such as corn, sweet potato, potato and peanut were planted in the inland of Shandong Province, which changed people's staple food structure, and Shandong cuisine, Confucius cuisine and famous Shandong cuisine rose one after another. At this time, pancakes, as a clean stream in the catering industry in central and southern Shandong, have shown great vitality under the promotion of culture.

In the pancake staple food area, if a large pot of steamed bread or steamed bread is steamed, it will be dry or moldy in a few days; Steamed soft on high fire before each meal. In mountainous areas, fuelwood is an important factor in diet economy. Although it has a wide range of materials, it needs great efforts to collect it. At this point, pancakes have an advantage. When they are dry, they can be softened by sprinkling some water.

From the production point of view, pancakes use the least tools, the least working procedures and the most labor-saving. There are three main skills in pancake making-spreading, scraping and rolling.

The skills of spreading pancakes and scraping pancakes mainly lie in the difference of tools. Shop, that is, use T-shaped cake rafters to spread around the badminton; Scraping is to scoop the paste on the hot dice and spread it left and right with the dice. The representative square for scraping pancakes is Tai 'an. After grinding, the pancakes will ferment for a while, and the pancakes will be thinner and slightly sour.

The practice of sharing booths is the most popular. Mr. Pu Songling has described this technique in detail, to the effect that the rafters need to be separated on both sides, and the badminton is in a three-column shape. Scoop out a spoonful of pulp from the earthen pot and pour it on the badminton. After ironing, it makes the sound of running water hitting things. Then, immediately turn the rafter to the left, and the slurry crawls on the tray like ants, turning yellow and white, and the pancakes will be ready in a short time. Taking advantage of the heat at this time, you can quickly make dozens or even hundreds of pancakes by turning your hand.

Pancake roll is a special practice in Yimeng Mountain. Generally used for rough sweet potato pancakes. Instead of paste, it is made by rolling dough on seeds many times. After rolling a layer, you can uncover the spread pancakes. Although the appearance is not very flat, it wins with the original flavor.

Tobacco is durable and can even be used as a family heirloom. Dong Yang Lou Village, Shengzhuang Town, Tai 'an City 1967 found a "separation contract" in the Wanli period of Ming Dynasty, which recorded "a plate of cigarettes and 23 kilograms of pancakes". To divide pancakes, you can know that pancakes can be stored and cigarettes are also important property.

Pancake is one of the best coarse grains, with delicate taste, which is suitable for all ages in Xian Yi. Pancakes are easy to store, and can be eaten on the spot or stored for several days. Someone jokingly commented that pancakes can roll everything. Indeed, pancakes can be stuffed, soaked and flexibly matched with various dishes.

"Eat pancakes, one by one, good food. Save kung fu, firewood and food, the first way home. Slag tofu and sauce are both white and fat. " A Taian folk song seems to sum up the beauty of pancakes.

In Jinan, the number one pancake is sugar crisp pancake, and sugar is added to the pancake paste. Pancakes represented by salt are a major feature of Tengzhou. That pancake stand is a luxurious filling fried with vegetables and spices. Common dishes are cabbage, leek, white radish, carrot, tofu, vermicelli and shrimp skin. Vegetables are raw and spread in cakes, and a pancake is covered on the filling and spread alternately.

Pancakes are unpretentious but all-inclusive, just like the hearts of Shandong people. The excellent qualities of thrift, honesty and diligence have also been paved by Shandong people into layers of pancakes.

Compatible with all tastes, soothing people's hearts.

Liang Shiqiu compared Shandong green onions to sugar cane in the article "Recalling Qingdao": "... the green onions in nearby Weixian are as thick, tender and juicy as sugar cane. One day, a guest came from far away and stopped at my humble abode, but he asked for pancakes and green onions. He didn't want them, but cut them into pieces like sugar cane and piled them in a big plate. The exhaustion of guests' food means that their lives are never satisfied. "

Pancakes are often used by the ancients in some special festivals, such as People's Day, Dai Ri, Begging for Cleverness Day and so on. Pancakes in the Jin Dynasty were also given a specific meaning. Wang Jia of the Eastern Jin Dynasty said in Notes: "In Jiangdong, it is generally said that the 20th day of the first month is the day when the sky shines, and tying pancakes on the roof with red silk thread is called mending the sky. According to legend, The goddess patching the sky. " This is the earliest recorded custom of filling the sky with pancakes. Pancakes are associated with the myth that the goddess fills the sky, and the imagination of the ancients is really fantastic.

On how to eat pancakes, Pu Songling, who has been poor all his life, has a unique opinion: roll the ribs with alternating flesh and blood in pancakes, soak them in fatty egg custard, and have a full meal in the morning, so that he can stay hungry until the evening and his stomach rings like thunder; If left overnight, the pancakes become cold and crisp and need to be cooked. You can coat them with goose oil or lard, fold three or five pancakes, and burn them with fire. Their taste is soft and crisp, their entrance is refreshing and their fragrance is overflowing. You can also roll up pancakes layer by layer and cut them with a kitchen knife. It's messy, just like cold noodles. Add salt and lobster sauce to the soup, cut the pepper into powder, wait for the water in the pot to boil, and put the pancakes in the pot, just like gold bars. Sometimes the weather is cold, and a bite of pancake soup will sweat on your forehead during the day, which is better than mutton soup.

Pu Songling also wrote a very interesting scene to the effect that an unknown old man in the countryside was holding a pancake roll in his left hand and picking up the fallen pancake crumbs in his right hand to encourage his cheeks to chew pancakes. At this time, a well-dressed son passed by and asked the old man enviously: I am willing to exchange the food cooked in my pot for the pancakes left in your hand, can I? After hearing this, the old man in the village quickly turned away and refused to exchange with him.

Pancakes are a business card of Shandong food culture, and even foreigners who stay here are obsessed with pancakes. In 1930s, Feng Yuxiang, a patriotic general, lived in seclusion in Mount Tai twice. He has a shovel in his kitchen, so he can spread pancakes by himself. One day, when he saw that the scorch marks of pancakes looked like words, he had a brainwave and sent someone to order a hammer, so that the blacksmith could chisel out the four official words he had written in the middle of the hammer-resisting Japan and saving the country. On the pancake spread out with this hammer, four characters of "resisting Japan and saving the nation" can appear. Every time Feng Yuxiang treats guests, he will put on this kind of pancake with words to publicize the anti-Japanese and national salvation. Later, he wrote a book "Pancakes-Anti-Japanese Military Food", which introduced the making method and nutritional value of Taishan Pancakes in detail. After the Lugouqiao Incident, Feng Yuxiang also gave this book to Chiang Kai-shek, hoping to solve the problem of food supply for China troops in War of Resistance against Japanese Aggression.

"Li Qingzhao was born in Zhangqiu, and Shandong green onions are best produced in Zhangqiu. Then the problem is coming. Does Li Qingzhao like pancakes and onions? Maybe Li Qingzhao wrote those poems when she was drinking and eating pancakes and rolling green onions. With this in mind, I want a goddess package-scallion pancakes. " Yang Qian, a girl from Chengdu, once traveled to Shandong and missed pancakes.

Pancakes not only satisfy people, but also witness the changes of the times. In War of Resistance against Japanese Aggression and the War of Liberation, pancakes, as military supplies, played an important role in the battle with Shandong soldiers. In the early 1970s, the raw materials for processing pancakes were gradually changed to electric mills, and the stone mill in front of the house was abandoned. Around the 1990s, cigarettes gradually became "rotating cigarettes" powered by handrails and motors. After 2000, someone developed a machine for processing pancakes, and the pancakes produced changed from round to square.

Pancakes are compatible with all tastes and are quite soothing. As a cultural symbol, pancakes are gradually taking root in every corner of the country. Nowadays, vagrants in the pancake staple food area often have pancakes in their suitcases and trunks before traveling; The army of pancake vendors dominated by Pingyi people is also active in many parts of the country, and some even spread pancakes to foreign countries.