Which province in China is the best to drink?

"Sichuanese don't drink to relax. It is often competitive and usually uses white wine, a strong and disgusting grain wine. Men toast each other and kill them all at once. This kind of banquet tends to become bullying. Participants stimulate each other until someone gets sick. "

I believe that men in most parts of China will express their grievances after reading this passage by American writer He Wei in Jiangcheng. Drinking wine is almost a characteristic of China, not a proper term of a province or a city. More importantly, no matter which "China can drink best", Sichuanese can't rank.

However, although Americans are shocked by the way people in China binge drink, most people in China don't like drinking every day. According to the report of the World Health Organization in 20 10, the annual per capita drinking in China is about 6.7 liters, which is far from the consumption of Russia 15. 1 liter, Czech 13 liter and France 12.2 liter. Even Korea (12.3 liters) and Japan (7.2 liters) with similar ethnic cultures can't compare. Even Thais who live in the tropics and don't need to drink to keep out the cold are 0.4 liters higher than those in China.

Chinese wine table culture

Almost all ethnic groups have different degrees of persuasion. Why does China's "wine table culture" leave a deep impression on people?

It's too elaborate and complicated. Some nomads are famous for their drunkenness and like to get drunk when entertaining guests. This is because they have little daily social interaction, and visiting guests is like a holiday; But its etiquette and attention are usually very simple, and it can pour a few bowls at most.

In Japan and South Korea in East Asia, employees like to drink in groups after work, but the Japanese are basically casual. Koreans pay more attention to seniority than Japanese, but the complexity of etiquette is far less than that of China, and they don't have to get as drunk as China.

China has a tradition of persuading people to drink since ancient times, but the ancient people's persuasion is not particularly different from other ethnic groups. Today, the wine table culture in China is not a simple inheritance of the ancient tradition, because it has formed a set of national rules.

The basic principles of wine table culture in all parts of China are the same: subordinates toast their superiors to show respect and obedience; The superior advised the subordinate to show intimacy and shelter; Fighting with each other at the same level, showing strength and active atmosphere; You can't mess up every level.

Toast order: We must toast each other first, and then toast from the inferior to the superior in order of rank; Be sure to find out the ranking of status, respect the highest status first, and then respect the second highest status. Once the order is wrong, it will not only cause unhappiness and doubt, but also embarrass distinguished people.

Toast posture: When a humble person toasts a distinguished person, he must leave the table and approach the distinguished person. When touching a glass, the mouth of the glass must be lower than the other's glass. No matter how much each other drinks, they should raise their glasses first. If an honorable person leaves the table to propose a toast to a humble person, the humble person will be moved and excited.

Rule of drinking: Of course, the person with the highest status is the first target of being drunk at the banquet, but it can only be enough. Respected people drink moderately and fully appreciate the loyalty of their subordinates, usually followed by enjoying the entertainment time when their subordinates are flushed and drinking with each other.

Rules of wine fighting: If two organizations attend a banquet, usually the host will try to put the guests down, but there will always be someone to replace the wine, and both coaches are not the main players in wine fighting, mostly middle-level backbones. Therefore, it is usually the middle level who dares to throw caution to the wind for the fallen leaders.

The greatest value of the wine competition between the two units is not to smooth each other out, but to enhance internal cohesion-they seldom show their subordinates the most direct opportunity in front of the leaders, and their loyalty will make the leaders enjoy it.

Wine can make people relaxed, excited, reduce self-control, and easily establish mutual trust and intimate relationship. In human society, it is almost a universal emotional adhesive. However, in a society where human factors are less considered and rules and procedures are emphasized, it is difficult for booze to become an important link in business and official activities, and alcohol is more common in occasions where individuals exchange feelings.

Therefore, East Asian countries with relatively strong human society all have relatively strong wine-urging culture, while Japan, South Korea and China all have different social levels, and the intensity of wine table culture is obviously progressive. Although China people don't go their separate ways when they get older, the organizational system of the whole society in China has been brought into the top-down 15 administrative level, which is far stricter than that in South Korea.

In addition,1China's social transformation since the late 1950s has brought all social relations of China people into the "unit"; Organizations in Japan and South Korea only care about the salary increase and promotion of their members, while organizations in China also care about issues such as household registration, housing allocation, job title evaluation and children's admission to the park. The system of personal extreme attachment is the foundation of the birth of Chinese wine culture.

However, once you leave the hierarchical occasions, China people don't have so many rules and drink a lot less. According to a survey conducted by the University of Waterloo in Canada, the consumption of alcohol dropped by 70% immediately after Chinese immigrated to Canada.

However, as long as you stay in China, you will inevitably frequent the wine table. The booze culture not only makes some people miserable, but also becomes the biggest test and pressure for young people to enter the company. Because I can drink, I can get appreciation quickly. There are a large number of young people on the internet asking how to exercise alcohol.

Where can people drink best in China?

Is there a difference in drinking between the north and the south?

It is generally believed that the north can drink more than the south, and Shandong, Northeast China, Inner Mongolia, Xinjiang and Henan are all qualified to consider themselves the best in the world. A portal website has conducted a questionnaire survey, and the results show that northerners drink more than southerners.

However, from the physiological point of view, there is a limited difference in alcohol consumption between the north and the south of China. People's alcohol consumption depends on the body's hangover relieving function. Nearly half of China people lack acetaldehyde dehydrogenase-2(ALDH2), and the second step of hangover-metabolizing acetaldehyde is defective. There is little difference in population distribution between north and south, so there is little physiological difference in drinking ability between north and south in China.

Compared with Europeans, Americans and Africans, China people are not good at drinking. Europeans and Americans have a small proportion of acetaldehyde metabolism defects, and they can generally drink much more than those in China, but except for a few occasions such as bar revelry, they rarely drink as much as those in China.

In fact, the list of alcohol consumption in China was formed very late-before the end of 1970' s, the ration of alcohol coupons was a rare hard currency for ordinary people. Even officials can enjoy different grades of wine according to their administrative level, but their income is quite limited. On the other hand, under the high-intensity ideology and planning system, the demand and space for human feelings to loosen power are very limited.

In fact, the previous analysis has answered why there is a difference in the amount of drinking between the north and the south and between the east and the west in China: the strength of wine table culture is actually positively related to the degree of institutionalization. 1Before the end of the 1970s, the degree of institutionalization in the north was obviously higher than that in the south. Not only are large state-owned enterprises and industrial investments concentrated in the northeast, north China and southwest China, but the enthusiasm for collectivization in rural areas is also obviously different (almost all advanced rural models come from the north suitable for large-scale collective labor).

1after the 1980s, the institutionalized differences between the east, the west, the north and the south in China have further widened. In the southeast coast with the lowest dependence on system, the mainstream society in some places not only failed to form a decent wine table culture, but even began to develop in the direction of deviating from the typical Chinese wine table culture.

The strength of Chinese wine table culture does not depend entirely on its institutionalized ranking. Beijing and Shandong are two obvious special cases.

At the end of1980s, Beijing was in sharp contrast with the surrounding areas, and there were almost no alcoholic drinks used for official and commercial banquets. Perhaps it is because Beijing is the center of power, and officials get together and dare not expect anything at will; In a hierarchical environment, wine table culture is a great burden for everyone. In addition, the education level of Beijing officials is much higher than that of other places, and foreign affairs exchanges have also broadened their horizons, making it difficult to form a wine table culture.

Shandong may not be recognized as the place with the largest consumption of alcohol, but it is recognized as the first export province of wine table culture. From the perspective of the degree of institutionalization, Shandong is actually a region with a low degree of institutionalization in the northern region, but it is also recognized as the region with the strongest official standard. This may be the reason for its cultural position on the wine table.

Self-awareness of regional culture may also have an impact on wine table culture. Whether in Shandong, Northeast China, Inner Mongolia or Xinjiang, there are positive keywords such as heroism, courage and tenacity in their self-cognition, but in the southeast coastal areas where wine table culture is weak, these keywords are often negative.

Of course, Shandong people, Northeast people and Inner Mongolia people can't drink the PLA. The army has the highest degree of institutionalization and has a culture of "wine and courage". The army is not as complicated as the local wine table culture, but directly "loves iron and drinks blood." Liquor enterprises are also happy to establish relations with the military. 20 1 1, Maotai Group announced that it has formed a friendly mutual construction unit between military enterprises and seven military regions. "The special feelings closely connected with the people's army have been integrated into each other's blood."

Decline of liquor

However, as the core of Chinese wine table culture, liquor is now in a state of rapid decline.

From 65438 to 0993, the slogan "When remy martin opens, good things will come naturally" spread all over the country, and foreign wine became a new status symbol because of its high price. Guangdong, which was at the forefront of fashion, first came into contact with foreign wine, but the consumption of foreign wine soon changed from fashion and ostentation to real taste appreciation. Nowadays, Guangdong's foreign wine sales account for 1/3 of the whole country. The sales of Chivas Regal and Royal Salute in Guangzhou can double every year, and the growth rate of other varieties of foreign wine is also around 30%.

In the east with the largest population and the highest income, liquor is no longer the first choice for liquor consumption. In 20 12, 56.2% of liquor sales came from the west, exceeding the sum of the central and eastern regions. The same report shows that 73.9% and 89.8% of the country's wine and beer are sold to the east, while 8.4%, 3.2% and 17.7% and 7.0% are sold to the central and western regions respectively.

Because liquor is positioned as a banquet wine, it is gradually squeezed out of the market outside the banquet. Drinking liquor is time-consuming and harmful, which is not in line with the fast-paced life in the city. Beer has become the biggest substitute. In addition, most liquor brands in China today were born in the last twenty or thirty years, so it is difficult to talk about stable and credible quality, and they inevitably fall behind in the competition with foreign wines.

Bar, an emerging market, is undoubtedly the biggest promoter of foreign wine, and the bar culture originated from the West is naturally highly compatible with foreign wine. As the price of foreign wine is the level of popular consumer goods in China today, more and more young people become their daily consumers because of their recognition of foreign wine culture and taste.

When the national wine was in a downturn, rice wine had a rapid growth in recent years. The low-alcohol and mild taste of yellow rice wine and the matching Jiangnan wine culture make it grow against the trend and become a strong opponent of foreign wine. In 2009, the yellow wine sales of Huangzhong Group was 850 million yuan, which was more than 20 12 years1800 million, and it doubled in three years when the wine industry was generally stagnant.

China Liquor is doomed to be unable to change the image of catering liquor-the advertisements of liquor manufacturers have been strengthening their relationship with power. Most of their advertisements are famous actors who play emperors, such as Zhang Guoli, Chen and Tang Guoqiang, and some advertisements directly make spokespersons dress up as Manchu emperors.

Because liquor is highly dependent on public consumption, and public consumption is actually an unstable market-the central leaders will change their posts every 10 years. After the change, the party and government style will be rectified, and the public consumption market will shrink sharply. Therefore, in the last two decades, we can easily observe the cyclical ups and downs of the liquor market, especially the high-end liquor. It is estimated that this cold current is stronger than before.

201212 in late February, the central military commission ordered the reception work not to arrange banquets and not to drink alcohol, which was called the "prohibition of alcohol in the army". As an important consumer of high-end liquor, the PLA suddenly banned liquor, which undoubtedly added insult to injury to China's liquor industry.

Interestingly, during the 18th National Congress, Guizhou Xijiu was the organizer of the 18th National Congress of China, and its popularity was greatly improved. However, I don't know how it is now.