What is the historical origin of Wuhan delicacy “Doupi” and Wuhan?

When mentioning the delicacies of Hubei and Wuhan, everyone’s first reaction is definitely the fragrant hot dry noodles, but Wuhan’s delicacies are not just hot dry noodles, there are many, many delicious ones. One of them is "Doupi". The history of tofu skin can be traced back to the same era as hot dry noodles, and it is also a very delicious food. The tofu skin is a combination of glutinous rice and kang-charred bean skin. It is burnt on the outside and soft on the inside. It has a great taste. So how did such delicious food appear and who created it? Let’s take a look.

Tofu skin is a local snack in rural Wuhan. Every winter during the slack season, everyone blanchs bean curds, which is made by grinding early rice and mung beans into pulp and blanching them into thin skins. In addition to trying to stir-fry fresh bean curds with seasonings, they mainly cut them into shreds and dry them in the sun. It can be used to entertain guests during the Spring Festival or given as a gift. After this tofu skin was introduced to Wuhan, some cooked food vendors initially sold shredded beans in soup, and later used chives and glutinous rice as fillings. The skin was the early "light bean skin". Sometimes customers bring their own eggs and ask them to be boiled on the bean curds. The eggs turn out to be bright, orange and delicious, which is the "egg-glazed bean curd" in the early days of Wuhan.

In Wuhan, the oldest one is Wuchang Wangfukou Doupi (the intersection of Jiefang Road and Ziyang Road in Wuchang today). Because it is the ancestral heritage of the Yang family, it is also called "Yang Doupi" and opened in the Qing Dynasty. During the Daoguang period, the shop did not use a sign. It was not until Yang Zhifu, the fourth generation of the Yang family, that he officially put up the sign of "Yang Hongfa Doupi". It is crispy on the outside, soft on the inside, and fragrant. It is economical and popular among diners. Guo Chunshan, the creator of Wuhan Sanxian Tofu Skin, and Gao Jinan, known as the King of Tofu Skin, have both made it in Yangdian.

In 1946, Lao Tongcheng resumed business. Gao Jinan created the unique "Three Fresh Bean Curds" feature. He vigorously innovated in the traditional production method, adjusted the ingredients, and made it carefully. The bean curds made by Gao Jin'an have clear pulp, thin skin, and The firepower is right, the ingredients and seasoning are appropriate and even; it tastes delicious, crispy on the outside, soft in meat, heavy in oil but not greasy. After liberation, Gao Jinan continued to improve and innovate, and changed the tofu skin ingredients to pork and noodles. and shrimps, and summarized a set of sophisticated production methods such as bean curd filling, bean curd pulp, and bean curd frying to make the three fresh bean curd skins thin and colorful, tender and refreshing, and the fillings are fragrant and oily but not greasy. The color of bean curd is also developed from Sanxian bean curd, shrimp bean curd, mushroom bean curd, etc. Gao Jin'an's production skills are mainly "three passes": pulping pass, fire power pass, and material cutting pass: the pulp needs to be ground. Fine, dry and wet, grind as you go, change the water as needed. Fire off: changing the heat several times in a pot of bean curd will fully display the color, taste, aroma, shape and crispy outside and tender inside of the bean curd. Ingredients: The main and auxiliary ingredients are prepared in all colors, and seafood is added to keep the original flavor of the stuffing.

In the mid-1950s, the three-fresh tofu skin was not only spread throughout the three towns of Wuhan, but also introduced to Guangzhou and Shanghai. , Changsha, Urumqi and other cities. At 3 pm on April 3, 1958, Chairman Mao Zedong, accompanied by Wang Renzhong, went to the Huiji branch in Laotongcheng for the first time and tasted the bean curd made by Zeng Yanling and Fu Hanqing. When tasting the bean curd, Chairman Mao said to the leading comrades from other provinces at the same table: “You don’t have this kind of food there, this is the flavor of Hubei. "

On September 12 of the same year, Chairman Mao went to the Laotongcheng branch for the second time. When he entered the store, he said: "I'm here to trouble you again." "This time, the tofu skin king Gao Jin'an personally made three fresh bean curds for Chairman Mao. The Sixth Plenary Session of the Eighth Central Committee of the Communist Party of China was held in Han Dynasty in October. Gao Jin'an and other masters attended the meeting to serve the delegates. Chairman Mao once taught: "Bean curd skins It is the flavor of Hubei and must be maintained. ”

Premier Zhou also accompanied foreign guests to taste the tofu skin made by Zeng Yanling, the two kings of tofu skin, in Laotongcheng in 1958. During the Sixth Plenary Session of the Eighth Central Committee of the Communist Party of China, Deng Xiaoping, Li Xiannian, Li Fuchun and Cai Chang and other central leaders also dined on the second floor of Laotong City. VIPs such as Kim Il Sung and Sihanouk, as well as international friends and compatriots from Hong Kong, Macao and Taiwan, also tasted the three fresh bean curds and spoke highly of it. . Comrade Xie Tian, ??the famous film director, once wrote "The good people are fragrant" and "The mountains and rivers are magnificent" as a gift.