What does it mean to be an expert typist?

The difference between typists and designers may be easily explained by definition, but in the actual enterprise operation and production process, their functions often penetrate each other. An excellent designer must be able to achieve something in form, because form directly affects the appearance of clothing; Similarly, an excellent printmaker must have his own unique views in the field of design.

A good printmaker must be experienced, and experience may not make him an excellent printmaker. There is a big difference between pattern design and style design. Style design is an open mind, trying to express the designer's unique ideas, while pattern design can be accurate to every millimeter, which is a kind of beauty described by data. For the data of the same part, some designers will choose 2 and some designers will choose 3, and one of them will definitely make the clothes more beautiful and comfortable. Another example is the tight-fitting effect. It is generally believed that adding 4cm is the most basic breathing volume, but this is not absolute. The human body is rich in fat and elastic. The fluctuation of one or two millimeters will not affect the breathing, but it will have a great influence on the shape. Similarly, if the rotator cuff is matched, the high sleeve mountain looks tight, but it is uncomfortable if it is too high. Then there must be a limit value, and the effect that cannot be achieved will be compensated by other means. The two are almost invisible in appearance, but the wearer is the most experienced. This is the inspiration of the printmaker. Typists are not fully qualified for a set of skills. Mr. Hou, the technical director of Taiping Bird Women's Wear Department, said: "The technique is something that everyone knows, and the gold content of the technique is not great. How to improve the accuracy and inclusiveness of typesetting is a standard to measure whether a typesetter is excellent. " Grasping accuracy and inclusiveness is a comprehensive evaluation of a typist's aesthetic spirituality. From this perspective, the template is not a simple combination of lines, but also needs "design". Such a typist must have the attributes of a designer to be competent. Therefore, it is not an exaggeration to call a typist a tailor. However, they are not designers after all, and excellent designers will have unique views on layout. At China International Fashion Week in 2003, when we interviewed models, we would ask them about their experiences and their comments on the clothes they performed. We often hear: beautiful, fashionable, exquisite ... comments on the design, but when the release of Wang Yutao, the chief designer of Boxendog, ended, the model's comment was "His clothes are not dazzling, but they are comfortable to wear." In a later interview, we learned that he personally completed all the costume designs for the Wang Yutao press conference. As a designer, personally completing the design of the version is of course the most perfect expression of design ideas. As for "comfort", designer Wang Yutao himself explained: First of all, I have experience in typesetting, and secondly, I have spirituality in typesetting. As a designer, Wang Yutao doesn't mind being called "tailor", because in his view, plate making and design also need inspiration. Wang Yutao began to contact clothing at the age of 15, and never gave up the research on patterns in the next ten years. He said: "Without enough experience, it is impossible to become an excellent printmaker. The experience of printmaking is accumulated in practice again and again. Typing is the process of constantly demonstrating theory. For example, if the teacher says' 1+2 = 3', then we can find that there are many ways to get the result of 3 through continuous practice, and after trying these, we think1+2 is the easiest. Then the 1+2 we use at this time is absolutely different from the original 1+2. " Wang Yutao said that when it comes to the technical theory of typesetting, I am no different from others, but if you give me a pair of scissors and a piece of cloth, my clothes will be more comfortable than others. I think it's because I am also spiritual in this respect. Why do high-paying typists get high salaries? In our impression, the typist's fame is not loud enough and his performance is hard to measure. Whether their status in the enterprise will be the same as their reputation, but when the reporter investigated the treatment of typists, he found that the importance of typists has been correctly treated by business operators, which can be reflected in their salary. According to Ms. You Hongyan, general manager of Beijing Ayou Beidou Clothing Co., Ltd., in Beijing, the average printer's salary is about 3,000 yuan, the technical director can get 4,000 ~ 5,000 yuan, and the older brand technical director can get 6,000 ~ 8,000 yuan. According to our incomplete statistical survey, in the developed areas of clothing industry, the salary of slightly experienced printmakers is generally not less than 3000 yuan, and it is not uncommon for technical directors to earn tens of thousands of yuan a month. In Chengdu, Nanjing and other non-clothing industrial centers, printmakers with better skills can also get 3000~4000 yuan. In Guangdong, printmakers also participate in profit commission. At first, the salary of typists will be slightly lower than that of designers, but the salary of typists will be proportional to the time and experience at a certain stage. Typewriter is like an old Chinese doctor. The older he gets, the more valuable he is. Bottle design needs creativity and inspiration. For fashion designers, to a certain extent, being younger may have an advantage. In enterprise recruitment, it is often seen that the age requirement for designers is no more than 35 years old. Although there is no age limit for typists, several years of work experience is one of the most basic requirements. In a recent questionnaire survey conducted by our newspaper in cooperation with the Hong Kong Polytechnic University, there was a question: Do you think the company would be most interested in the work experience of typists? In nearly 30 questionnaires collected by our reporter in Beijing. The vast majority chose 4-5 years. It seems that the printmaker himself is well aware of the significance of the accumulation of experience to his career. Plate making is a highly technical job, which contains many trivial and complicated details. Understand the human body structure, accurately grasp the size and position, etc. Both need rich experience and a high degree of flexibility, and flexible handling of plate types is supported by skilled technology and rich experience. Ni Zhibin, technical director of Beijing Taweiou Clothing Company, gave an example: For example, the shoulder slope design of ordinary men's shoulder pads is 45. The neutral men's wear emphasizes aesthetic feeling, and its shoulder slope design is 35. In that case, it is time to test the standard of printmakers, and achieve the best combination of beauty and comfort by adjusting the slope of shoulders. At this time, the experience that can help printmakers is very important. For another example, as we mentioned earlier, the first ski suit in China was divided into 78 pieces. The division of these 78 blocks should follow the feeling of human muscles, and the version made should be visually beautiful and smooth, and also meet the needs of human movement. Imagine: without rich experience in plate making, I am afraid it is difficult to complete it well. Therefore, experience is an important weight to measure printmakers. Shang Fuhai, general manager of Beijing Taweiou Clothing Company, said with a smile: "The printmaker is like an old Chinese doctor. The older you get, the more valuable you are. " But please note that this "old" does not refer to age, but to real and genuine experience accumulation; Of course, it doesn't mean how long you have been engaged, but it means out-and-out professional skills and literacy. Mr. Hou, technical director of women's clothing department of Ningbo Taiping Bird Group, is a well-paid printmaker, only 32 years old. What is the meaning of high salary? A printmaker's monthly salary ranges from 1500 yuan to 10000 yuan, and a Guangdong enterprise actually offered a high salary of 400,000 yuan. These examples can't help but make us think: what is the value of high-paying printmakers? Mr. Shang Fuhai, who received an annual salary of 80,000 yuan as early as 200 1, was promoted to the position of technical director within half a month, because he made a bold innovation in the traditional tennis skirt format in Li Ning Company, adding a chest lift (that is, chest saving) to the traditional tennis skirt format, making the tennis skirt more slim and stereoscopic, highlighting the female curve. At that time, this idea was immediately opposed by everyone, because in everyone's concept, sportswear was based on comfort, but when everyone saw that tennis skirts with chests were more beautiful and did not affect their comfort at all, they naturally believed in such innovations. There is a lack of senior garment plate-making talents in China, so it is not easy for enterprises to find a good plate-making division that suits them. Different brands have different customer groups and clothing styles. Therefore, enterprises have different requirements for plate making, and plate-making designers need a good understanding of the brand personality characteristics of enterprises in order to be used by enterprises and serve brands. Mr. Hou, technical director of women's clothing department of Ningbo Taiping Bird Group, has worked in Taiping Bird for 7 or 8 years, and his current annual salary is close to 200,000. He is now involved in the overall operation of the brand as a middle-level company. Teacher Hou said that at present, most brands and enterprises are designers and marketing directors, and they are more involved in company planning, and rarely participate in brand operation from a technical perspective as printmakers. Some enterprises may give typists a good salary, but they will not let him participate in planning more, and the space for typists is limited. Mr. Hou believes that typists should also be more involved in the operation and operation of enterprises. The typists' work itself is closely related to the products and involves more. Knowing more about the company will make you more handy in specific work. Moreover, thinking hard in the process of participation is also a learning process, which is conducive to the improvement of comprehensive quality and the development of the company. Often such professional advice is very important. At present, the competition among major brands has included the competition of versions. After consumers see it, it is the version of the clothing that determines the sales rate of a certain clothing. Wearing beautiful clothes is uncomfortable, and consumers will not pay the bill. From the point of view of a typist, Mr. Hou feels that his salary is very high, but it is not surprising if he considers the scope of his duties. It can be seen that in addition to unique skills. High comprehensive quality and strong comprehensive ability are one of the important reasons for the high salary of high-paying printmakers. This is why some people have worked in the ordinary level of "clothing cutting" 10 years, 20 years, or even a lifetime salary is not high, while some people can become senior plate makers with high salaries through several years of hard work. In this sense, high salary is not the same as old age. What is the bottle strength that hinders the development of printmakers? Bottleneck: copying money is easy, but copying version is difficult. The printer's work seems rigid and monotonous, but in fact it has great flexibility. The level of printmakers is quietly reflected in the changes of several digits after the decimal point. This is why the same compositor will print different versions in different styles. Many clothes that copy the style of internationally renowned brands do not have the style and charm of big brands. What is the reason? The problem lies in the format. I didn't pay much attention to the format when copying. Maybe I'm concerned, but I don't understand how people embody the design concept through layout processing. If the format is almost out of place, I can't be like it. The technical director grasps the temperament of the clothing and tries his best to make it more elastic. To put it bluntly, the temperament of clothing in previous years is gone. Judging from the format, temperament is more determined by the format. Teacher Hou of Taiping Bird Group believes that the starting point of style change is mainly the change of color. For example, the same suit has a waist, some look more energetic, and some are more casual. This effect can be achieved by slightly changing the height of the waistline. Of course, there are other methods. What kind of temperament clothes reflect depends on the stylist. The flexibility of plate making lies in that little bit, which requires understanding and aura and cannot be trained. No training will tell you how much the texture, pattern and texture of each fabric affect the parting line and looseness of clothing and how to deal with it. These details can't be located, qualitative and quantitative. So this often becomes the bottleneck for ordinary typists to grow into senior typists. Tan Guochu, general manager of Shenzhen Baidaili Fashion Company, is almost perfect or even harsh in his pursuit of typesetting. The company spends a lot of money on typesetting, but Tan Guochu is never stingy in this respect. When choosing a typesetter, what he values most is the aesthetic quality and understanding ability of the typesetter. Bottleneck 2 Learning Ability It is necessary for a typist to participate in appropriate professional training at different stages of his growth, so that his technical and theoretical foundation can be more solid and systematic. Through training, you can also get new plate-making skills and methods, and increase opportunities for communication with peers. It is very beneficial to the professional development of printmakers. However, training can not solve all the problems in the development of printmakers, and the degree of skill improvement is not the same. Typesetters should constantly deny themselves and accept new things with an open mind. Regular typists pay more attention to skills, but skills should be constantly improved and changed. For a long time, China's manual plate making has always relied on the proportional distribution method, but now the Japanese prototype method is obviously more advantageous, so the typist's technical methods should also keep up with the trend of the times. Proper use of experience can add fuel to the fire for progress, but sometimes it will also become the resistance of ancestors. So some big companies will also choose some experienced typists when recruiting, which is why. Patterns will change with the times. Take men's suits as an example. Men's suits in Ningbo, Wenzhou and even the whole country actually have a basic pattern. But why do men's suits in Wenzhou look more fashionable than men's suits at the same price? Because, men's suits in Wenzhou tend to be slender in pattern, and clothes in Ningbo are still going wide. This is mainly the designer's proposal, but the pattern makers have to constantly accept the trend change of fresh patterns. Shopping malls, watching press conferences and browsing the latest magazines and pictures, which designers often do, should also be compulsory courses for printmakers. I hope to see more printmakers in future fashion activities and let us know that the makers of fashion clothes are actually very fashionable. When it comes to typists, the core problem is technology. Since ancient times, for clothing cutting, the East advocates plane and the West advocates three-dimensional. However, with the deepening of cultural exchanges around the world, the two are also constantly merging. Since China cheongsam formed the first dart, our "tailor" clothing concept has taken the first step from plane to three-dimensional self-cultivation. The west is also absorbing the advantages of fast and flexible plate making in the East. At present, China's traditional proportional distribution method, real and convenient drawing method and Japanese prototype method are active in the hands of printmakers. At present, the prototype method has also undergone more evolution, of course, computer CAD plate making and three-dimensional cutting method. Clothing CAD will eventually be industrialized. The concept of garment CAD/CAM has entered the China market for nearly 10 years. However, domestic garment enterprises once thought that it was Chun Xue, and its popularization speed was relatively slow. It's only two years since the garment CAD/CAM system was really popularized in domestic garment enterprises. At present, garment CAD plate making has been widely used in large and medium-sized garment enterprises. Although some details need to be manually modified by the printer, at least in the process of template push and release, the use of clothing CAD system has become more popular. However, small garment enterprises still mainly rely on manual plate making. On the one hand, small garment enterprises don't know much about CAD plate making; On the other hand, CAD plate-making requires enterprises to have corresponding technical capabilities, that is, in addition to computer application capabilities, users are also required to have a solid manual plate-making foundation. In a sense, the requirements of small garment enterprises for plate making are not as high as those of large and medium garment enterprises. A set of CAD, including software and hardware, is expensive, and the low-priced one costs 30 thousand to 50 thousand yuan. High-end 50,000-80,000 yuan or even 6.5438+10,000 yuan. In fact, whether to adopt CAD plate making depends on the understanding and attention of enterprises to CAD technology, and has little to do with the scale of enterprises. Mr. Lu Rui, sales manager of Daquan Ye Wei Technology Co., Ltd., which manages Bili CAD technology, said that if small clothing enterprises have a high starting point and business owners know CAD plate-making technology better, they may favor CAD plate-making. For example, Beijing Taviaud Clothing Co., Ltd. is not large in scale, and the company has not been established for a long time. On the one hand, because Tavio brand is positioned as men's fashion, the clothing style is avant-garde and neutral, which is not only reflected in the fabric color and style design, but also depends on the success of the version to a great extent. Shang Fuhai, the general manager, and Wang Zheng, the design director, have rich experience and unique insights in the field of plate making. Due to the emphasis on the version and the understanding of CAD technology, the company purchased a full set of Bili CAD plate-making software and equipment from the beginning. Master Ni Zhibin, who has 10 years experience in plate making, used CAD to make plates and took on all the plate making work of TAVIO fashionable men's wear by himself. Effectively improving work efficiency is the biggest advantage of computer plate making. Using CAD plate making, one person can complete the workload equivalent to three people's manual plate making, and the same is true for plate pushing. CAD can not only improve work efficiency, but also make plates more accurately and draw more beautiful arcs. The application of CAD in plate making requires the plate maker to have considerable technical foundation and plate making experience, and to have certain attainments in plate making, so as to use CAD plate making better and more flexibly and give full play to its advantages. In addition, one of the advantages of garment CAD plate-making men is that they can well preserve used patterns, form a pattern database, and hand over the warehouse function of the board house to the computer. When you use it again, you only need to call up the previous template to modify it, which is similar to saving the master. Master Ni Zhibin said that with the development of the industry and fierce competition, the popularization of CAD is definitely the trend. For a printmaker, skilled operation of clothing CAD software is also one of his necessary skills.

Printmakers are very popular.

Wenzhou Jin 'ou Clothing now has only one printer. When he is busy, he often doesn't get off work until 1 1, 12 in the evening. Hu thinks this job is really tiring. "We want to hire people. When recruiting people, you can come to 30 every day, which is rarely used. We recruited one, which was very powerful when we came, but after two months, a batch of goods came out, and there were many problems. " He seems to be helpless about it. "There are many new printmakers on the market now, but the technology is not good and the foundation is not enough. I want to recruit a good one, but I can't meet it. When you are really busy, you can only recruit assistants, but you still have to teach them by hand. " A similar situation is not uncommon in the clothing industry. Typewriter is a business that makes a living by real skill. Wenzhou clothing industry was once very short of printmakers. In recent years, a group of experienced printmakers have been trained to alleviate this gap. However, printmakers are still very popular in Wenzhou market. Advertisements of printmakers can be seen everywhere on the Internet. "At present, many students have been trained in engineering classes of garment colleges all over the country, such as Jiangxi, Beijing and Shanghai, but it is difficult for them to make a plate right away. Exercise for at least two or three years. " Zhuo Wuwen, who has more than ten years of typesetting experience, said, "It is very hard to train a talent." It is understood that it takes at least two or three years to train a typist, so enterprises generally hope to have a master with three or four years of typesetting experience. Some time ago, Good News Bird recruited two experienced printmakers. Compared with designers, printmakers are less mobile and more stable. "200 1, 2002, when Wenzhou clothing was booming, there was a shortage of typists in the market, which was the period when typists jumped ship the most." Ren said, "At that time, we received many phone calls from the bosses of clothing enterprises every day, but now the market is very rational."