What kind of golden brocade is Nashiya?

Nashiya is a kind of gold brocade and an important silk weaving variety in the Yuan Dynasty. Nashiya is the Mongolian transliteration, which is the same as "Nachisi". Because the pattern is close to Persian style, some people translated it as "Persian Golden Brocade". In the Yuan Dynasty, the Silk Brocade Weaving and Dyeing Department and the Weaving and Dyeing Artisan Department set up a special bureau to weave Nashiya, which was managed by the eunuch's internal storage warehouse, which cashiered the Duanpi, Nashiya gauze, etc. of the kings. , made into Zhisun clothes for the emperor and his officials to wear during the banquet.

Many nomadic nobles in our country’s history liked clothing made of gold brocade, and the Mongolian people were no exception. Zhisunfu is a symbol of the status and status of high-ranking officials in the Yuan Dynasty. Zhisunfu was mostly given by the emperor to show his love for his officials, and the recipients were often proud of it.

The official uniforms and tents of the great Khans or monarchs of the Yuan Dynasty were also often sewn with gold brocade. In order to meet the large demand for gold brocades from the upper class nobles, special bureaus were set up in places such as Hongzhou, today's Yangyuan, Hebei, and Dadu, which is now Beijing. The gold brocades woven using the gold-engraving method were called Nashi. arrow.

Our country has begun to add gold to silk fabrics since the Warring States Period, and it became more mature during the Tang and Song Dynasties. "Liu Dian of the Tang Dynasty" contains 14 methods of adding gold, including selling gold, patting gold, plating gold, weaving gold, and calendering gold. However, clothing materials are mainly printed with clay gold and silver. Gold was widely used on clothes in the Song Dynasty. Gold weaving and silver weaving reached their peak in the Yuan Dynasty. The brocade, gauze, Luo and damask used in the robes are all made with gold.

In addition to Han craftsmen, there were also craftsmen from the Western Regions (such as the Uighurs) who were good at gold weaving in the Yuan Dynasty. Zhenhai, a famous general during the Mongol Empire, moved more than 300 households of gold and silk weaving workers from Xinjiang to Hongzhou, established a weaving bureau, and weaved stone arrows.

In addition, there are also management agencies that specialize in weaving the emperor's royal Naishiya collar, Xiebesi Bali Bureau, Hongzhou Naishiya Bureau, Xunmalin Naishiya Bureau, etc. It can be seen that the Naishiya Bureau at that time The scale of production is huge.

In addition to Han and Uighur craftsmen, there were also Hui craftsmen in Nashiya weaving in the Yuan Dynasty. Among the official works, Hui craftsmen produced the largest number of Nashiya. Influenced by the Hui ethnic style, the Nashiya patterns are mostly symmetrical and have a strong Islamic style. The names of the craftsmen are often woven in Arabic.

Nashiya is a kind of silk fabric with patterns woven with flat gold threads or round gold threads. Weaving patterns with large areas of gold thread on silk fabrics was extremely popular in the Yuan Dynasty. This was mainly due to the customs and hobbies of the Mongolian people and the upper-class nobles' desire to show their luxury and wealth.

It is rare to see stone arrows handed down from generation to generation. The Palace Museum has two pieces: one is a stone arrow with dragon, phoenix and turtle pattern on a red background. It is the fabric of Buddhist robe shawl. On the red background, flat gold threads are used to weave turtle pattern all over. Within the chrysanthemum petal-shaped opening, weaving dragons and phoenixes are arranged vertically and staggered up and down. The second is a green background with branches wrapped around precious flowers and stone arrows. The decoration uses modified Baoxiang flowers and vines to form a branch-shaped pattern with smooth lines.

The two pieces of nashiya are tightly woven and have regular jacquard patterns, which reflect the higher weaving level of gold-added fabrics in the Yuan Dynasty and serve as the basis for the gold brocade, gold satin and gold-woven fabrics of the Ming and Qing dynasties. Various gold-added fabrics such as gold silk, gold-woven yarn, and gold-woven fabrics laid the technical foundation.