What is the basic knowledge of clothing board?

As a pattern teacher, you should have three aspects of knowledge: human body knowledge, material knowledge and clothing technology knowledge.

The knowledge of human body includes: the structure of human skeleton and muscle tissue, the body surface morphology of various parts of human body and the general characteristics of human body at static state, the general characteristics of human body at movement and dynamic state, the change law of human growth and development ratio, the balance law before and after human body changes, the gender difference of human body shape and the special body shape of human body shape variation, the classification of size specifications, the coverage rate of size specifications and the proportion of human body.

The knowledge of clothing materials, first of all, is the difference in texture and performance of surface accessories. When making garment boards, it is necessary to master the properties of surface accessories in order to make appropriate adjustments, such as adjusting according to their specific properties and values, such as natural shrinkage, heating shrinkage, shrinkage, etc., to ensure the requirements of finished product specifications, and treat them differently according to the yarn count, density, drape, weave structure, thickness, softness and hardness of the fabric.

Secondly, the surface differences of clothing fabrics, the front and back of fabrics, and different organizational characteristics have great influence on the board-making, such as the backlight and stripes of fabrics, and the plant patterns and mandarin duck patterns in yarn-dyed or printed fabrics.

Furthermore, the concept of warp and weft of fabric, the main structure of fabric is interwoven by warp and weft, the length of cloth along the edge is warp, usually called straight yarn, and the width of cloth is weft, usually called horizontal yarn. Because of their different processes in textile processing, they have formed their own unique properties and their applications in clothing are also different.

Straight yarn has high strength, is not easy to stretch and deform, and is suitable for the direction perpendicular to the human body, mainly reflected in the length of clothing. The yarn quality of horizontal stripe yarn is soft and the twist is small, which can be slightly extended or reduced. It is suitable for sideways use of human body, mainly in the girth of clothing and the width of each part. Oblique wires are used obliquely at the intersection of warp and weft, which are elastic, plastic and easy to bend and change. Often used in many parts of clothing, such as side strips, it has a good plump, round and natural effect. In addition, it is also used for dresses, coats and other large-size, bias-cut clothing, with smooth drape, rounded waves and free relaxation. There are two points to pay attention to in the use of diagonal yarns. First, take 45% of the warp and weft of the fabric. Diagonal yarn has the best effect and performance, greater than or less than 45. Angle has different degrees of influence; Secondly, it should be considered that the direction of oblique wires can be divided into horizontal oblique wires and vertical oblique wires, which are also called broken wires and smooth wires.

Pattern designers must also be able to make clothes, and the techniques of plate making and sewing should be closely coordinated, mainly including the following points:

① Seam structure, such as back seam, side seam, sleeve seam, upper collar seam, etc. Crotch, waist seam, side seam, etc. , as well as the performance methods of sewing, such as open sewing, reverse sewing, etc. Back seam can be divided into back seam of hemming, back seam of hemming, back seam of exposed pressure line, bobbin seam, hidden seam, hidden seam and so on. These are all reserved when making plates, and we should distinguish between different situations.

(2) Sewing structure. There should be continuous creases or other single seams at the edges of all parts or parts of the garment, such as bottom swing, cuffs, hem, armholes, neckline, etc. These structural treatments should be reflected when making plates.

(3) The difference of internal structure, including the structural relationship between the surface, lining and other accessories of clothing, such as whether the coat is hung in the whole or half, the lining and production technology should be changed, and there should be different forms of changes when making plates.

(4) Plastic surgery, which aims at shortening or lengthening some parts to reach the bumps or depressions on the surface, includes manual traction or contraction, plus the contraction of fixed traction belt and hand needle arch line, as well as plastic surgery with professional equipment, crotch pulling, chest ironing, etc. These technical means should be properly treated and adjusted when making plates.

Clothing board game knowledge

First, clothing pattern design in clothing production

Clothing design renderings are transformed from plane structure drawings into wool samples (production templates) for clothing production, that is, design renderings-determining body shape and data-structural decomposition sketches-determining drawing specifications and values of main parts-plane structure drawings-wool samples. In this pattern design process, the pattern designer must consider how to set up a better production pattern, so as to improve the quality of clothing, reduce costs and improve efficiency, which is different from ordinary pattern making (for individuals and customized clothing).

1. According to the designed sewing process, put out all seams in the garment structure drawing, and indicate the sewing methods and requirements except the existing technical parameters and marks on the net sample; Location and method of ironing; The determination of process sequence, production mode for layout, layout mode and accurate material consumption must be reviewed as follows: (Take men's shirts as an example)

(1) Review of set size. Measure all parts of the template according to the customer or given size.

(2) Check the suture. The connection relationship between clothing components is shown in the figure (1- 1), which shows the pattern of men's shirts. After the sample is made, check whether the armhole arc and collar arc are round and smooth. Check whether the bottom pendulum and cuff arc are smooth; Check whether the length of armhole arc and armhole arc are equal; Check whether the length of collar arc and leg line are equal; Check whether the cuff radian (except pleats) of the sleeve body is equal to the sleeve width; Check whether the front and rear side seams are equal in length.

(3) Check the alignment marks. Men's shirts are marked with creases at the front and buttons; Alignment mark of armhole arc of shirt body and armhole arc of sleeve; Button mark of collar and mark aligned with front center line; Ming patch pocket's welt creases, etc. Wrinkles on the cuff line of the sleeve, etc.

(4) Check the grain lines. Check the line direction used in cloth cutting.

⑤ Check the joints. The patterns produced by men's shirts are 1CM seams except lapels and Ming patch pocket seams.

⑥ Check the general mode. Men's shirts have 1 1 pattern (including bottom collar and face collar).

⑦ Check whether the information is complete. Including style name, cutting quantity, code number, cutting piece name, etc.

2. Cut the checked sample into clothes to check whether the sample meets the design intent. This pattern is called "headboard". The unconfirmed pattern is modified, adjusted or even redesigned, and then re-examined as a "composite board" to make clothing, and finally confirmed as a clothing production pattern.

Second, the pattern design needs to consider the fabric, process structure, clothing style and quality requirements of actual clothing production.

In the process of clothing pattern design, because of the different styles of clothing; Differences in fabric structure and thickness; Limitation of clothing technology and machine type; The difference of clothing quality and organizational structure will affect the actual production, so the production of clothing structural patterns also has different requirements.

1. According to the tight weave of clothing fabrics, different sewing methods have different requirements for sewing parts.

① According to the different thickness of fabric, it can be divided into three sewing quantities: thin, medium and thick. Generally, the sewing quantity of garment patterns for thin fabrics is 0 and 8cm, that for medium fabrics is 1cm, and that for thick fabrics is 1 and 5cm.

(2) Narrow seams should be made in places with large radian, such as armholes and necklines, because seams will wrinkle if the radian is too large. However, the sewing design of production patterns should be unified as much as possible, which is conducive to improving production efficiency and product quality standards. Therefore, the sewing of shirt collar and neckline is still 1cm, and the neckline should be trimmed to 0 and 5cm after sewing, which can not only unify the collar and neckline. For example, the seam at the back of trousers is wider. The stitching on the center line of the back should be 2 cm and 5cm (see Figure 2- 1A), and the stitching on the front and back sides of the upper body can be 1 cm and 5cm, which can not only improve the sales of products, but also meet the psychological requirements of customers.

③ Different sewing methods have different requirements for sewing quantity. For example, flat sewing is one of the most commonly used and simplest sewing methods, and its sewing quantity is generally 0,8 ~1,2cm. For some loose fabrics that are easy to loosen the edges, it is generally adopted to fold the seams together and lock the edges after sewing. After sewing, the bone is usually divided into 1 and 2cm (see Figure 2- 1b). There are generally two sewing methods for hem (skirt, cuffs, trouser legs, etc.). ) clothing: one is hemming after hemming, and the other is seaming directly (see Figure 2- 1c). The seam added by the hemming seam is the width of hemming. If it is a flat style, it is generally 2 ~ 2 and 5cm for summer coats, 2 ~ 5 ~ 3 and 5cm for winter coats, and 3 ~ 4 cm for trousers and suit skirts, which is beneficial to the sagging and stability of trousers and skirts. If the hem and cuffs are arc-shaped, it is generally 0,5 ~1cm, and the direct hemming seam generally needs to add 0,8 ~1cm on this basis. Used for the edge of large round shirts, flared skirts, frustum skirts, etc. The edge should be as narrow as possible, and the seam should be rolled up and sewn, which is the edge seam. The width of the roll is 0,3. The common sewing method for side seam, inner seam and back seam of jeans is sewing. The advantage of this sewing method is its durability. Pay attention to whether the front seam wraps the back seam or the back seam wraps the front seam, and the back seam wraps the head seam or the back seam. The general seams are 1 and 2cm, but the seams used in actual production are different. Huizhou Daikin Co., Ltd., Hong Kong Rising Sun Group, has been producing jeans for a long time and has achieved good practice. Because the specified size is calculated at the seam edge, the accuracy and uniformity of the size will not be affected after the finished product is completed.

2. According to different structures and different production effects, different clothing production modes are determined.

① Because different structural sewing processes will affect the quality and layout of garment production, thus affecting the cost of garment production, it is very important to determine the pattern of garment production. For example, the four structural methods shown in Figure 2-2 can determine different modes of clothing production according to different needs. If the sewing process of A (single-layer open-tube placket) and C (double-layer open-tube placket) is selected, the product quality is easy to control, but the structure of C will produce too thick clothes, so thick fabrics are not suitable for use. If you choose two sewing processes, A and B, you can save cloth, but the structure of B will produce uneven thickness of the front door. If you choose D-structure sewing technology, you can reduce the time of cutting and sewing process and improve efficiency, but this method can only be used when the cloth has no bottom surface and surface. Generally speaking, A structure is the most commonly used structure in general clothing production, which can save cloth and has good quality, and is not limited by the type of cloth.

The structure of lapel welt can be divided into two parts: lapel and lapel. The structure of front adding and front adding wastes cloth, but the sewing process is simple and convenient. In addition, there is one more process in the sewing process of the structure with the placket, but the typesetting should be saved. The pattern designer needs to weigh the trade-offs in drawing and determine the methods suitable for various conditions of his company. For some similar styles of spoon collars or coats, you can also consider adding a separate front to facilitate folding at the back to save cloth.

③ The purpose of pattern engineering is to modify some pattern structures, so that they can beautify the human body, improve the quality, reduce the working time of workers, facilitate layout and save materials. Some structures will increase the amount of materials used in production, such as the sword-shaped sleeve seam of men's shirts. When making a pattern, the invisible layer of the big sleeve seam will be stolen, which can avoid exposing the next layer when the thread is exposed, improve the product quality and save materials. Some structures are unsightly after wearing finished products, and the patterns need to be modified appropriately, such as the patterns inside and outside of I-pleated skirts. When making patterns, cutting corners on the upper part of pleats can not only reduce the thickness and beautify the human body, but also save cloth and other benefits. Some structures will increase the holding time of workers and reduce the quality in the production process, so these production modes are modified.

Thereby reducing the above problems. For example, for some women who have a big difference between waist circumference and hip circumference, when making trousers structure (especially jeans), according to the structural principle, the radian of the front seam will be curved and the radian of the back seam will be straight, which will increase the hand-holding time of sewing. Add an appropriate size to the waist point on the front side of the pattern, and subtract the corresponding size from the waist point on the back side of the pattern, so that the radians of the seams on both sides will be close (see Figure 2-3c).