Tian bian Mao Cang

People say: If you can't go to Tibet, go to Maozang. It can be seen that Mao Zang is like a secret realm, mysterious and charming.

Last week, several donkey friends made an appointment to go to Maozang. On the day of departure, it was snowing, so they didn't make it because they were afraid they couldn't climb the mountain. This Saturday, the weather was fine, and several friends didn't want to meet.

At 8 o'clock in the morning, the vehicle departed from the south gate of Liangzhou, headed south, and walked about twenty or thirty kilometers, and came to the entrance of Shankou-the source of Zamu River.

Qilian Mountain, known as the "Southern Mountain of Corridor", straddles here, forming a natural boundary mountain, which separates Tianzhu in Gansu from Menyuan in Qinghai. On the Tianzhu side of Gansu, most mountainous areas are traditional plateau pastoral areas, and nomadism has become the main lifestyle of mountain people for generations. Out of the mountain, Qilian snow water continuously flows to the outside of the mountain, moistening Hexi, and farming has become the most authentic living state of people in this land.

Yamaguchi naturally became the watershed of two life forms, and a very interesting phenomenon appeared. After entering the mountainous areas, most of them live in pastoral areas, such as Tibetans and other ethnic minorities. They have been guarding the mountains for generations, living leisurely by cattle and sheep, and living a life of "relying on mountains to eat mountains"; Out of the mountain, farming will naturally be handed over to the Han people. Perhaps it is God's intention to show mercy and give an oasis in the vast desert Gobi, so that people can produce all kinds of food on this land and live a comfortable life of "relying on the sky to eat".

The head of Zhamu River is such a position. To the south, there are Tianzhu Maozang Mountain Area and Shankou, and Shanghe Village, an ancient town in Liangzhou District.

In Shanghe Village at the head of the canal, you will find a very strange thing. The Maozang Township Government of Tianzhu County and some herdsmen occupied about 200 mu of land in this place that originally belonged to Liangzhou ancient town, built office buildings and other building facilities, and moved here.

In Maozang, it is also a last resort to leave home. At that time, because Liangzhou used water, when the government built Maozang Reservoir, it designated the original Maozang Beach as the reservoir area. The original township government and some herdsmen on it had nowhere to be placed, so they had to find land nearby in Liangzhou District outside the mountain and build a settlement at the gorge.

After entering the mountain, the vehicles were submerged in a valley called Maozang Grand Canyon.

Maozang Grand Canyon is a 60-kilometer-long grand canyon formed by Zhamu River after thousands of years of scouring. At first, the sides of the canyon were not too high, just slightly undulating. The ridge is covered with a thin layer of sand and there are few trees. The village grass on the ground is mottled and looks a little shabby, not like a mountain peak. Like an elderly person, his temples turned white in the weathering of time, and his head was decadent in the hardships of years, leaving only a few strands of hair that could not grow. Only yellowed skin reveals vicissitudes of life, showing hardship and sadness.

Go in, don't have a hole. Some places are steep and steep, while others are gentle and open. There are strange peaks and rocks along the way, as well as mountains, rivers, forests and plateau meadows. Quantai Village and Daxiaotai Village in Maozang Township are located in the mountains on one side of the canyon.

After passing through the canyon intersection of these two villages, the towering peaks on both sides are stacked one after another, showing a steep, majestic and steep scenery. Only when you are there can you feel its profundity, tranquility and mystery. For a time, there was only a small gap between the two peaks, which seemed to be crushed at any time, dazzling and shocking; Some peaks are like mysterious statues of different shapes, which are amazing. What the local people admire most is a mountain peak that looks like a natural Buddha statue. Viewed from the side, the eyes, nose, chin and bun are as lifelike as artificial carving.

The thick and tough cliffs on both sides are as thick and trustworthy as the northwest man. The steep mountain peak is like a face that has experienced vicissitudes of life, and the tenderness of the years is deposited in every corner. Like a lover who can't hold her forever, staring for a long time, a feeling moves from spring and summer to autumn and winter, regardless of wind, frost, rain and snow.

Miss surges slowly. On the rocks with slight baldness and barren vegetation, trees are sparse and grass vines are shallow, just like sad temple frost, which becomes barren in the cold wind.

Time is like a knife, it passes here every day, leaving an indelible mark. The deepest notch was undoubtedly split by human knives and axes. Ding ding dong dong for a while, the cliff is extremely steep, straight up and down, like a sword leaning against the sky, straight into the sky. A few abrupt rocks, making a declaration, telling the inexplicable acacia and expectation.

Standing under a huge rock, I stopped to stare at the big white Tibetan character "?" Carved on a light gray stone surface. . This word is found in many places in Tibetan areas. "?" The Chinese word "Zhen" is the six-character mantra of Tibetan Buddhism-Zhen (? ) (? ) What about () Mimi? () Uh-huh (? The first word in). Tibetan scholars believe that the six-character proverb translates as "Ah! I hope that my merits will be complete and I will be integrated with the Buddha! " .

This reminds me of pilgrims crawling on the gravel road and the old lady beside the prayer wheel. The scenes are pure and deeply buried in my heart. At this moment, it seemed that faith and awe flooded in and infiltrated my heart, making me recite these six-character proverbs silently like countless Tibetan compatriots. Not for the perfection of merit, not for the liberation of Buddhism, but for the preservation of this last piece of nature and national culture.

There is a winding country road in the canyon. The traffic sign is called X 103, and the navigation is called X284. Whether it is 103 or 284, it is not a small number in the name of the county road. Such a large number undoubtedly shows that this road has only been built for a few years. That's true. This road has long since disappeared. Later, in order to build a reservoir, humans dug this road abruptly on the cliff, which enabled us to walk into the mountains today. Of course, the mountain people also came out.

Signs often appear on the roadside to pay attention to falling rocks. From time to time, large stones are found falling from the top of the mountain, as if they are going to cross the road at any time. Don't say that you are still a little scared when you encounter such a road. You are afraid that a stone will really fall, no matter how big or small, it is very dangerous. In many places, the road surface is pitted by wipers, and the vehicle is like a boat, ups and downs for a while and bumps for a while.

On one side of the road is a small river-Maozang River, which runs all the way out of the mountain, enters Zamu River and joins Shiyang River system.

In winter, the river freezes and a thick layer of snow accumulates on the ice. Without the colorful variegated colors of summer and autumn, it looks like a plain dress, bringing a quiet and transparent temptation.

The waterfalls that used to flow are also frozen on the cliffs, forming icicles, ice hangings and ice curtains, which are layered and white as jade.

Hanging in the ice room, the flowing water broke the shackles and flowed down from the ice curtain, one after another, falling layer by layer, stirring up the sound of water. Surrounded by ice and snow, the river is very clear, and you can see colorful, round and smooth pebbles at the bottom of the river at a glance.

On more rivers, the middle of the ice seems to have been plowed. The river flows through the groove and then freezes. Open the afterflow and freeze it again. Over and over again, the black water tank in the middle, like a wound scab, accumulated a thick layer, layer by layer, and slowly moved to both sides. On each floor, the snow falls again, like pen drawing, and the brush strokes slowly bloom and solidify in the field of vision.

On the mountain peak next to the ice waterfall, colorful banners are flying and flags are dancing with the wind, just like reading a book, constantly conveying the expectations of Tibetan compatriots to God and praying for the protection of this mountain and this water.

A flock of white yaks marched in an orderly way on both sides of the river, mostly huddled together, looking for grass with their heads down and watching the team for fear of falling behind. Individual cows stopped from time to time, looked at us with alert eyes, ran forward quickly, made the dust float in the sky, startled the wild birds in the ravine and flew to the sky with a crow.

Walking against the river, in a relatively narrow deep valley, a dam stopped the river, and Maozang Reservoir appeared in front of us.

Standing on the reservoir dam, at first glance, it is surrounded by mountains, and the gurgling snow water flows through the mountain stream. The Maozang beach in front of the dam gathers to form a plateau Pinghu, but the lake is frozen, like a mirror embedded in a ravine, illuminating the mountains.

We bypassed the reservoir and came to the water inlet. An old suspension bridge over the Maozang River still exists and is protected as a historical witness. The broken boards on the bridge have been replaced with new ones, and the worn paint surface has been repainted. In order to cherish the memory of the lost years, people deliberately carved the four characters "Mao Zang Ancient Bridge" on the bridge.

In the past, a lot of water in the reservoir flowed under the bridge. It is not difficult to imagine that under this narrow bridge, the water with a wild nature, rushed under the bridge, rushed through Maozang beach and washed away.

On the beach, the villagers live by the water, the chickens and dogs hear each other, the grass is lush, the cattle and sheep are surrounded, just like a paradise, quiet and beautiful. Later, the township government moved away, the herdsmen moved away, and the cattle and sheep were driven away, becoming a reservoir area surrounded by high barbed wire.

After all, we are the beneficiaries of the reservoir. Because this reservoir, the water pipe of Liangzhou people, is the first time that surface water flows out, and what kind of water is clear, which makes people really feel that the source is clean and clean.

But I am not happy. In recent years, many reservoirs have been built on the mountains like Maozang Reservoir in front of me, which has cut off the flow of many rivers such as Shiyang River, so many environmental disasters have occurred. Typically, Hong Yashan Reservoir was built in the upstream of 1958, and Qingtu Lake in the downstream of 1959 dried up completely, so Zeguo no longer became a sandstorm line.

Seen from the suspension bridge, the houses of villagers in Maozang Village are scattered on the hillside on the north bank of Hebei Province. There is no difference between the bungalows of the same color. Sometimes the colored steel tiles placed on the roof enliven the atmosphere of the quiet mountain village and have a smart life. Next to the village, there is a row of bungalows, which are slightly old and simple, and are called Maozang Temple. This temple, unlike many resplendent Buddhist temples in Tibetan areas, is too ordinary, and people who have never been to it generally do not associate it with Tibetan temples.

This temple was built in the early Qing Dynasty and was destroyed during Tongzhi period. It was restored by 1935 and reopened by 1982. Perhaps because of its dilapidated condition, a new temple has been built in the village, and the old temple has little activity, so it is only protected as a county-level cultural relics protection unit.

Opposite the Maozang Temple, there is a mountain peak, which looks like a huge stone mill from a distance. There is a deep ditch in the middle of the mountain peak, just like the navel eye in the millstone, so people named it "Grinding Umbilical Mountain". There are seven stone peaks around Moqi Mountain. From a distance, it looks like seven carts full of grain and grass, and the locals call them "seven grass carts".

Although the navel-grinding mountain has not been ground, it has ground gold. In the late 1990s, Shuanglonggou at the foot of Moqi Mountain ushered in an unprecedented gold mining climax. Large excavators, loaders and bulldozers swarmed in, and 65,438+10,000 gold miners from all over the world rushed into a ditch to dig gold. Of course, this has already become history.

After crossing the suspension bridge, the car drove in the direction of Maozang huashan village. About ten kilometers away, we came to the first Haizi in Huashan. Haizi has been frozen, without the expression of fish in autumn, like weeds on the roadside, too ordinary, and did not stop, walking to the second Haizi.

Standing next to Haizi, Chuan Zhang Xuefeng stood in front of us. This is the highest peak of Tianzhu Mountain, known as Anigangka in Tibetan, with an altitude of 4,874 meters, which is the boundary mountain of Gan Qing. At first glance, the top of the mountain is covered with snow, and the hillside is covered with trees and shrubs, which is also covered with snow. The meadow at the foot of the mountain is yellow, and the river is frozen, which is a winter scenery in the north.

Most roads are covered with snow and bushes, so it is difficult to walk and breathe. Fortunately, the scenery is beautiful, which more or less relieves the chest tightness and shortness of breath caused by high altitude. Walking, a friend named O Cecilia Han May was surprised and shouted: Look, deer, look, how many! "

We all looked in the direction she pointed, and found three or four red deer hovering obliquely above their heads, stopping for a while and running for a while, which was extremely cute. We watched them for a long time until they left our sight.

In fact, the other three villages in Maozang, like huashan village, have only one road to the outside, and there are many mountains along the way. It takes several days to go out, which is a veritable secret. At that time, there were many wild animals, such as snow leopard, musk deer, bears and other herders.

In huashan village, villagers remember the story of "God Deer". Writer Liu Hu wrote in the article "Qilian Mountain Bailuyuan":

This time, we found another herder to check it again. He said:

"There are white deer. We call it Lu Shen, and we always walk around the village. The villagers also consciously put some food for Lu Shen to eat. Over time, it seems that we are familiar with each other. They don't hate each other. They are close. Then I disappeared for a while, and when I saw it again, I brought a deer, probably its offspring. Later, the deer fell into the river and broke its leg. Before long, the deer died and disappeared. "

Seeing the wild deer seemed refreshing and laughing until the second Haizi.

Haizi has frozen and is covered with a thick layer of snow. A friend named longge squatted on the ground, opened the snow with branches, observed the ice, and said:

"It was so cold that the ice cracked. Don't worry about stepping on it. Nothing at all. "

I walked around on Haizi's ice and felt a little angry, which was completely different from the place where Haizi stayed last time.

After going down the mountain, we took out what we had on the bus and had a simple meal. We rushed to Daoxia, Mao Zang's next scenic spot.