Shandong cuisine is the first of the eight major cuisines, why has it become less popular in recent years?

When it comes to Shandong cuisine, it can be said that everyone knows about it. Since the Ming and Qing Dynasties, there have been four major cuisines of Sichuan, Shandong, Huai and Guangdong, and later there have been the so-called eight major cuisines, that is, Zhejiang, Hunan, and Anhui. No matter how you evaluate it, Shandong cuisine is traditionally ranked first among all major cuisines. However, Shandong cuisine, which has a long history and a high status, has gradually declined since the new century. Even in Shandong, more and more young people prefer to eat Sichuan cuisine, Cantonese cuisine and other foreign cuisines, and even eat Western food altogether. People can't help but wonder: Is Shandong cuisine really bad? What went wrong with Shandong cuisine, which has been passed down for thousands of years? As a Shandong native who grew up eating Shandong cuisine, let’s talk about this issue today.

1. Why is Shandong cuisine the first of the four major cuisines?

The term Sichuan, Shandong, Huai and Guangdong as the four major cuisines actually originated during the Ming and Qing Dynasties. The status of Shandong cuisine as the top of the four major cuisines was also officially finalized during this period. Many friends may ask, how can this Shandong cuisine be the first of the four major cuisines? Some friends will argue from the cooking skills and characteristics of Shandong cuisine, but these are not the main reasons, because each cuisine has some unique skills and characteristics. Shandong cuisine has become the first of the four major cuisines. I think there are two main reasons:

1. A spontaneous cuisine with a long history

Shandong cuisine is the oldest among the four major cuisines. The oldest spontaneous cuisine. Let’s talk about the history of Shandong cuisine first. If Shandong cuisine is defined as a cuisine with local characteristics in Shandong, then its germination can be traced back to the pre-Qin period. The Qilu area in the pre-Qin Dynasty was one of the areas with the most developed commerce and the richest supplies at that time. At the same time, the etiquette of the Zhou Dynasty has been well preserved in the Qilu area. There is a saying that "all the etiquette of the Zhou Dynasty is in Lu". The important origin of Shandong cuisine can be traced back to the "palace cuisine" of the Shang and Zhou dynasties.

Still photo of Jiang Taigong

At the same time, among the four major cuisines of later generations, only Shandong cuisine is a spontaneous cuisine, that is, its cooking methods and the characteristics of the dishes are all in Shandong. Within the region, it is formed spontaneously and is less affected by foreign food culture. For the other three cuisines, because their regions have experienced multiple waves of immigration, their food styles have also been influenced by foreign influences. Among them, Sichuan cuisine is the most typical. We all know that although Sichuan has superior natural conditions and is known as the Land of Abundance, it has been a place full of disasters historically. Two large-scale massacres at the end of the Song Dynasty and the beginning of the Yuan Dynasty and the end of the Ming Dynasty and the beginning of the Qing Dynasty almost wiped out the indigenous residents here. Later, after immigration, it gradually regained its popularity. The spicy Sichuan cuisine we are used to now was actually gradually formed after the Qing Dynasty and was greatly influenced by immigrants from Huguang.

2. Shandong cuisine is the main body of palace cuisine

China has been an official-based country since ancient times, and the status of many things is actually affected by the official. Unlike other cuisines that were born among the people, the earliest origins of Shandong cuisine can be traced back to the palace cuisine of the Shang and Zhou dynasties. Friends who know something about the Shang and Zhou dynasties should know that it was an era of aristocracy. Especially after the Zhou Dynasty ritual system was completed, for the aristocracy, what to eat was not only a dietary issue, but also an order issue. The emperor, princes, ministers, officials, and scholars all have different dietary standards for different statuses, and these must not be exceeded. For example, the Bazhen of the Zhou Dynasty were eight kinds of delicacies that were exclusive to the Emperor of Zhou.

Dragon Pattern Fu (fǔ) Eastern Zhou Food Utensil

Later from the Eastern Zhou Dynasty to the Qin and Han Dynasties, the aristocratic society gradually disintegrated, and the status of the civilian class rose. Some delicacies that were originally exclusive to the aristocracy gradually declined. To the people. Therefore, Shandong cuisine is born with some "nobleness" in terms of status.

Moreover, from the Qin and Han Dynasties to the Ming and Qing Dynasties, the main body of the royal family in most dynasties came from the north. As a typical representative of northern cuisine, Shandong cuisine is more in line with the royal family’s dietary tastes. This has also allowed Shandong cuisine to continue its status as the main body of "palace cuisine" in the feudal society for more than 2,000 years. This is also an important reason why Shandong cuisine was ranked first among the four major cuisines after the Ming and Qing Dynasties.

2. Industrial Shandong cuisine and artisan Shandong cuisine

Shandong cuisine undoubtedly has a glorious history, but as Shandong people, when we move from history to reality, we will inevitably Somewhat embarrassing. Because it is undeniable that since entering the new century, the development and spread of Shandong cuisine has not been smooth. In recent years, Shandong cuisine has the reputation of being the first cuisine, but its influence nationwide has been surpassed by Sichuan cuisine, Cantonese cuisine, etc. Even local young people in Shandong don’t like Shandong cuisine very much.

Why is this?

Recently, when I was communicating with some Shandong cuisine people, I heard a term called industrial Shandong cuisine. This word may partially answer the previous question. Nowadays, when we walk in Shandong, we see many restaurants that specialize in Shandong cuisine, all using central kitchen-style cooking methods introduced from Western food. This cooking method usually uses a unified recipe and ingredient ratio, just like a factory workshop, processing the dishes into semi-finished products one by one, and then going through a final heating process when it is time to serve. This kind of cooking method is of course relatively high in terms of efficiency, and it can also ensure that the dishes produced have a taste above the passing line. But the dishes produced in this way can be said to have no "soul".

Assembly-line central kitchen

But traditional Shandong cuisine is obviously not like this. Every dish is a complete process, from the preparation and handling of raw materials, to the specific cooking, to the final presentation on the plate in front of diners. In this process, through special cooking techniques such as quick-frying, stir-frying, roasting, deep-frying, grilling, and frying, the chefs not only cook delicious dishes, but also infiltrate their own understanding of ingredients, food, and even the relationship between man and nature. understand. The so-called "All five flavors are good, only the middle is harmonious", this is a spiritual state embodied in Shandong cuisine. These things are not available in the assembly-line industrial Shandong cuisine. We all talk about the spirit of craftsman now, so traditional Shandong cuisine can also be called "artisan Shandong cuisine".

Has this "artisan Shandong cuisine" disappeared now? Not really. It’s just that they are silently hidden in the old alleys of old Jinan, waiting for us to discover them. For example, in the area of ??Qushuiting Street and Qifengqiao Street in Old Jinan City, there are the few remaining courtyard houses from the Ming and Qing Dynasties in Jinan. There are several Shandong cuisine restaurants named "Old Jinan Courtyards" hidden here. The names of the restaurants are very simple, and they are all named after alley brands, such as "Wangfuchizi No. 4 Courtyard", "Fengqiao Street No. 5 Courtyard" and so on. More importantly, here, we can still vaguely find the craftsmanship spirit of the old Jinan Shandong people who are generous and noble but not petty, upright and not deviant.

Real shot, there is a hidden world inside the small doorway

For example, this stir-fried kidney. Stir-fried kidney is a representative dish of Shandong cuisine, but the processing requirements for the ingredients are very high. If the kidney is not processed well, it will easily have a fishy taste, making it difficult to swallow. But here, there is no need to worry at all. Moreover, the knife skills and heat of this dish are just right, making it truly tender and crispy.

Real shot of stir-fried kidneys

Another example is the famous sweet and sour carp.

Real shot of sweet and sour carp

Sweet and sour carp is also a masterpiece of Shandong cuisine, but I have rarely eaten it to my satisfaction in recent years. Usually, the fish meat has a strong earthy smell. Either the gravy is too sweet, or the batter is too hard due to over-frying. But these common problems have not been encountered in this store. All the carp used here are bought and fed in the spring pond in the yard for more than a week before being cooked. Through interaction with the spring water, the carp has fully vomited out the sediment in its belly. This alone shows the chef's care for the ingredients.

Real shot of carp raised in spring water

Wen Shijun said

In this era of industrialization, our lives have been accelerating. Fast and efficient assembly lines produce a large number of products, which greatly enriches our material life. But at the same time, in the process of rushing forward, we also lost a lot of things. We often talk about food culture, but culture needs to calm down, slow down, and settle down.

Fortunately, in this fast-paced era, there are still a handful of traditional Shandong cuisine craftsmen who stick to the old alleys and pass on the memory and culture of Shandong cuisine over the years.