Xinjiang Travel Notes

This should be the most special country in China.

Here is the highest-altitude port in the world: the Khunjerab Port is over 4,700 meters above sea level; here is the highest national gate in Xinjiang, with the Khunjerab National Gate being nearly 5,000 meters above sea level.

In August, before the fruits are ripe in midsummer, the days here begin with down jackets during the day and minus ten degrees Celsius at night. In other words, there is no summer in this place at all. However, the winter here is very famous and is called the "Valley of Death".

Every October, "autumn" comes here: the roads are blocked by heavy snow, and all the birds are quiet. The ice in the canyon is so thick that it needs to be shoveled with a car. When you open the door, you can't find the way... …I really don’t know how the sentries stationed here survived the long night.

Therefore, experiencing the road leading to the border port has become the happiest thing in the self-driving trip to Kashgar, Xinjiang.

What I want to share in this article is my travel notes to the Khunjerab National Gate in Taxkorgan Tajik Autonomous County, as well as the scenery along the way. Let's start from the beginning:

Departure (?ω?)

Taxkorgan is located in the border and alpine mountainous area. The scenery here is generally divided into four layers: the ground layer, the mountain layer, and the cloud layer. One layer, one layer of sky. Once a person hides in a landscape, he immediately becomes one with the scenery. There are many undeveloped "treasures" here, and every wetland is a natural wild park. Due to frequent crustal movements, hot springs can be found everywhere.

Taxkorgan, with a total area of ??25,000 square kilometers, is the only Tajik ethnic autonomous county in my country. Most of its tens of thousands of permanent residents are concentrated in an area of ??no more than 5 square kilometers in the center of the main city.

The land on the Pamir Plateau is not conducive to the growth of most animals, plants, and crops. According to Xuanzang’s description in "The Records of the Western Regions of the Tang Dynasty", this place has been "a The barren land where ridges and plows do not grow, is not like today's Taxkorgan. The roads are wide and straight to the sky, and the trees on both sides of the road have obvious traces of artificial planting. This is due to the revitalization of Ta County’s infrastructure in recent decades and the unremitting efforts of the people who are rooted in this land.

This is the westernmost edge of the Tarim Basin and the westernmost territory of our country. The oxygen content here is only about 60% of that in the plains. The desert and gravel extend to the foot of the snow-capped mountains. If you cross any mountain, you will be next to it. Pakistan or Afghanistan.

After our car drove for about ten kilometers, the terrain in front suddenly became open. The snow-capped mountains seemed to have retreated further than before, the grass color layers also became richer, and a stream could be vaguely hidden in it.

The Tajik driver said that this is a "plateau wildlife sanctuary" and a rare and precious oasis on the Pamir Plateau. In addition, he pointed to a small mud house next to the stream and said, "That's the house where Tang Monk lived."

The house where Tang Monk lived (?ω?)

We parked here specifically to check out the cabin.

Based on the current (new) condition of this house, it is certainly not the one where Xuanzang lived, but should have been rebuilt on the original site.

When Master Tripitaka passed through this place 1,300 years ago, Taxkorgan was already an "important town on the ancient Silk Road". Ten thousand Sogdian "express" caravans and horses traveling on the Eurasian continent passed through this place. There are frequent trips back and forth on the road. Within a radius of hundreds of miles with Kashgar as the center, mule and horse shops or inns set up every other section of the road have become a special scenery in the "Silk Road style".

The Tajik driver also said that the house is made of camel milk and mud. It is very strong and will last for thousands of years. The outline of the foundation is clearly visible and comes from the ancient wisdom of the late Paleolithic Age. According to archaeological research, this is an ancient cultural site with a history of about 10,000 years ago.

It’s a pity that a metal door and an iron lock were installed on the house. Although there is no way to enter to find out, judging from the external shape, I personally feel that it is similar to the house where the Tajik people live. The shape of the yurt is somewhat similar, and it may be an elementary version of the classic dwellings of the grassland nomads.

The "Jiri Gale Ancient Station Relics Passenger Transport Station" here is a shuttle bus station belonging to the Kashgar Regional Transportation Administration, for tourists and nearby residents to come and go - although there are not many households living nearby. resident.

In fact, such passenger transportation greeting stations are set up every other section of the 314 National Highway, but the number of flights is sparse. On our way back and forth, we only saw one minibus, moving slowly. We drove for 3 hours on the 125-kilometer mountain road. I guess this bus... stop-and-go, wouldn't last half a day.

Desert and Wetland (?ω?)

As we continue to move forward, the greenery seems to disappear in an instant. At this time, we also roughly summarized the rules: where there is water, there is grass, and people live in groups along the Mingtiegai River. But... it does not mean that you can "live in peace":

Ta County is located in an earthquake zone, where geological disasters occur frequently, and mudslides are often fierce. This place is surrounded by mountains, and although the distribution of glaciers follows a regular pattern, the snow melts and is never discussed with anyone. Therefore, the small villages and towns that appear every few kilometers along the 314 National Highway are mostly clustered around shallow grass, low mountains, and relatively stable water and soil.

Although this place is desolate, it is not run-down. It has water, electricity, and internet. As long as there are no flash floods or earthquakes, the quality of life can be guaranteed. It’s just that express transportation is not very convenient, so plateau people don’t have the habit of online shopping. They usually go to the bazaar to go to the market.

Dabudal (?ω?)

There are still 70 kilometers away from the finish line. We passed by Dabudal Township. The scenery here is simple and light, and it feels like the snow-capped mountains are right in front of us. The book said that this place used to be a gathering area for the Kirgiz people, but the Tajik driver said that now the permanent population is mainly Tajik. It seems that since the 21st century, Ta County’s regional structure has undergone many adjustments.

Also, the map shows that there are many Tajik "farmhouses" here, which infers that this township should have been (or is gradually being) developed for tourism. There must be something fun to do in the village, but we didn’t have time to go there this time.

It is adjacent to Yecheng County, and modern transportation facilities are well arranged. Judging from the size of the villages exposed at the entrance of the national highway, there should be a large supermarket where you can buy supplies when you turn into the countryside - it can be considered a small guide.

There are five villages in Dabudar Township, with three to four thousand permanent residents. Occasionally, nearby Tajik villagers walk on the road, giving people the sound of "Banqiao people crossing the spring, and chickens on the thatched eaves at noon" The relaxation and tranquility of "Ming".

After that, there is an area with dense villages and towns, and gradually more and more pedestrians are driving cars and riding motorcycles. There are many houses with red roofs and yellow walls on the roadside. They are all new residential houses built in recent years. They are single-story houses with two or three bedrooms and a large yard.

Karachigu & Mazar (?ω?)

The green once again disappeared from sight, replaced by mountains without any grass. A familiar name appeared on the road sign ahead: Karachigu. This is the place where the Jurassic fossil "Aydin Kulebe" was unearthed. It is the intersection of ancient Chinese and ancient Indian civilizations. It is also the location of the mysterious Congling ancient road "Wakhan Corridor".

As the most important trade route on the Pamir Plateau, the Wakhan Corridor has always attracted much attention during the ancient Silk Road period. After Xuanzang "took a shortcut" from here to return to China, the Emperor of the Tang Dynasty sent troops to station here. More than a thousand years have passed, and things have changed greatly, but the duties of the border guards have remained unchanged. They have always stayed here.

Today, this "path" in the canyon is still steep and covered with snow in winter and summer. No one else goes there except herdsmen, soldiers and horses.

The Tajik driver acted as a tour guide for us all the way. Every time we passed a place worth highlighting, he would explain it casually: "Look, if you go through this road, you will reach Afghanistan." By the way. Looking in the direction of his finger, there was still a vast expanse of snow-capped mountains, but the road was obviously different: one side was straight, flat and new, while the other side looked like it had not been taken care of for a long time.

Different from the ancient Karachi Pass, Mazar Village is located on a pasture. The grassland here is very famous, but the grass is covered with snow all year round. It is said that the horns of local cattle and sheep are long and hairy, and the sheep-picking performance skills are Xinjiang's intangible cultural heritage.

I suddenly discovered that we know too little about this land that accounts for 1/6 of our country’s land area. There are too many scenery in Xinjiang worth exploring. The scenery here changes year by year. The same, because:

Judging from the exposed area and distribution of those pebbles, it is probably common for the melting water of the snow-capped mountains hundreds of kilometers above to be temporarily diverted. There are some rivers that have water today, but they may be in different places tomorrow; there are some flat lands that are homes today, but they may be swamps tomorrow.

Therefore, although the Pamir Plateau is vast, most of it cannot build houses and can only be used as pasture. Although Ta County has a per capita area that many counties in the mainland cannot match, most of the land here In fact, it is not suitable for human habitation.

Brakgarle (?ω?)

At this time, the Tajik driver said that we were still a few kilometers away from reaching the country gate, and he became excited.

The place closest to the country gate is a community: the Brakegaerle Ranch. The mules wandering on the roadside have a shape worthy of the word "pasture", they are fat and strong.

The Tajik driver added: This place is not only a pasture, but also a hidden treasure, because it is rich in various ores that are "very valuable." But maybe because of the special geographical location, the land cannot be touched casually. However, relying on animal husbandry and planting, the villagers are living a good life.

We met two Tajik children here. Their home is in the village closest to the border. They are relatives of the Tajik driver. But don't underestimate the children of the herdsmen. They get along very happily with the Khunjerab sentries and are good friends.

As we approached the border, we saw many wonderful things. For example, the vans here were equipped with multiple spare tires. Suddenly, we remembered that we didn’t see any auto repair stations or even a gas station along the way. None.

We never saw any trace of the village after that. The world was desolate, with only the snow-capped mountains clearly visible. We rolled down the car window a little to take pictures, but the cold wind immediately rushed in, and the temperature dropped by at least 10 degrees. While we were shivering, we smelled a hint of the "Valley of Death": this is an inaccessible place, and it doesn't look like a human being. place.

There is a sharp bend ahead, and the driver said that after turning it, you will arrive at the Khunjerab National Gate.

Passing by the Khunjerab Outpost and the Border Inspection Station in turn, we waited for a full hour in a short distance of one or two hundred meters.

This is a very critical section of the road, which determines whether the people who come here can board the country at the next moment. Many tourists are "stuck" in this place for various reasons and can only turn around and go back without any room for negotiation.

We finally arrived at the gate of the country [Heart]

With the Karakoram Mountains at an altitude of 6,000 meters, the five-star red flag of Khunjerab is extremely bright. Our car can only stop here and cannot go any further. I walked forward with a surging mood, and my hands that took the photo couldn't help but tremble.

Only by standing at the door of the country can we deeply feel the weight of the word "country". If there is only one emotion related to dignity in this world, it is the heartfelt maintenance of the country's image and the enthusiasm of the Chinese nation.

This is a solemn door. At the door is the world's second highest mountain range, and at the opposite door is the brotherly country of Pakistan. It is covered with snow all year round, and botanists define this place as a frigid zone. Heavily armed patrol sentries walked on the center line, and we consciously stepped aside. After that, the group never walked to the middle again. Even when taking pictures, everyone consciously leaned to the side. In front of the two words "country", "individual" is so small.

I read in a book that the four words "Khunjerab" mean "Blood Valley" in the Tajik language: During the ancient Silk Road period, business travelers came and went in order to To prevent your horses from being overwhelmed by the high altitude, you will drain some of the blood of these animals to help relieve the pressure of high altitude. Therefore, many Europeans and West Asians passing through this place at that time often saw "traces of blood on the ground" and recorded them in their travel notes. Looking back on this story now, it is quite legendary.

The four words "Karakorun" mean "black rock" in Uyghur. When we crossed the border and observed the mountain up close, we felt just like when we learned that the road under our feet was the Karakoram Highway that 30,000 Chinese and Pakistanis spent 20 years building together. There is grandeur in the air, and the mountain lives up to its name.

In fact, the Pakistani brothers opposite probably feel the same way. There is only one pole between us, and opposite is the tourist bus of "Pakistan Railway". The tourist parking area there also has a route map of the Karakoram Highway and a guide map of the Khunjerab Valley. People on the opposite side were also taking photos and responding to us.

Under the leadership of their tour guide, the group of Pakistani brothers wearing saree kameez would shout "Long live China" and "China-Pakistan friendship will last forever" from time to time. He shook hands with us against the iron fence.

I really wanted to know what the boundary marker on the opposite side looked like, so I handed over my phone, and the elder brother said he was very happy to help take pictures.

The pattern of the Pakistani national emblem on the boundary monument on the other side is complicated and clear at a glance: cotton, tea, wheat, and jute evenly distributed in the middle are the food that the Pakistani people depend on for survival, and the frangipani on both sides is the national flower of Pakistan. Combined with the stars and moon in the upper part and the words in the lower part, the overall concept is: faith, unity, and precepts.

It was already past 9 o'clock at night when we left the Khunjerab National Gate. The afterglow of the setting sun shone on the hillsides on both sides, the cows and horses were still pacing leisurely, and the five-star red flag was flying everywhere. For the local residents, this is an ordinary day all year round. For a few of us, this is an unrepeatable trip that will be unforgettable for a lifetime.

I am Sister Dahong, an audio radio travel channel anchor, a professional travel player, focusing on niche gameplay and sharing unpopular destinations. Travel is not an attitude, it is life itself.