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My paper with Kannonji.

There are Guanyin Mountain, Kannonji and Kannonji in the world ... These mountains, churches and temples named after Guanyin have disappeared, still exist and are still under construction. It is difficult to estimate this figure clearly.

There is a place called Cannongji in Lueyang County, Shaanxi Province, which is both a village name and a town name. I have a knot with this Kannonji.

33 years ago

Thirty-three years ago, Kannonji was called "township" instead of town. In the summer of 33 years ago, my sister had just worked here for a few months, and I was still teaching in other places. My parents are old. They both live in the city. My mother always talks about where my sister works. My mother, who has been growing up in the Central Plains, has never walked too big a mountain. She wants to know how far Kannonji is and how difficult it is to walk. The concept of mother's right path is based on two soles. My mother has only one daughter, my sister, and she is worried that my sister will find someone in the village. Once, she said to her sister, "If you live there, I will never see you again, and you will never see me again." She cried as she spoke. My sister is a sensible child, please comfort her mother quickly.

The summer vacation is coming to an end, and my sister is going back to work. I decided to go with her. At that time, not only was there no "village-to-village access", but even "township access" was not realized. Occasionally, there is a hitchhiking trip to Kannonji, which coincides with the continuous heavy rain in summer. The extra roads were either washed away or buried by the collapsed mountain, and all motor vehicles entering and leaving Kannonji could not pass.

Walk along the motorway, from the county seat to the township government of Kannongji 150 Li. If you walk along the country road, you will get closer.

After noon that day, my sister and I took a bus for dozens of minutes, crossed the 309 provincial highway eastward and got off at Hejiayan. After that, climb to the top of the mountain in the north. This path is the best way here. There are sunken fields on both sides, and the ridge in the middle is a bit difficult to walk. "Ridge" is interpreted in the dictionary as "a slightly raised path in the field". Walking on such a path, I can't help thinking of the subtlety of China's artificial words.

There is a section of the road where you can take a tricycle, and walking has become a dead end. My sister also lost her direction for a while. She walked through the thorns and there was a steep cliff below. She moved down with her hands and feet. You can't see any traces of people walking. Pieces of grotesque stones may be trampled down at any time. I asked my sister to come up quickly and said that this is definitely not the way. We searched for a long time and saw a family. We asked for directions, crossed the family's yard and walked on.

I asked my sister if she had gone this way. She said she followed someone once. I said that I would come and go in the future, and I would never go alone again.

At a fork in the road, my sister can't remember whether to go left or right. There is a house halfway up the mountain in the distance. It looks as if someone is shaking. I put my hand in front of my mouth, made a trumpet, and asked loudly, "Oh, which way to go to Wulangping?" I mean "Oh, yeah" to remind each other and get his attention. I want to talk to him. My sister said that Wulangping is the place we want to pass, and there is a village in front, which is known to the locals. Judging from the action, people halfway up the mountain are responding to my question. As for the content of the response, I can't hear it clearly at all; I bet he didn't understand me. I guess his answer might be: "Oh, I can't hear you clearly!" " "It's just a coincidence that my sister and I chose the right path.

A narrow path winds between two mountains. The sunshine in late August is full of the last spirit of the year. Weeds and trees make my sister and I look so small. The valley is empty and silent, and it seems to show its majesty in this way. Suddenly, a naked man straightened up in the bushes only a few meters away from my sister and me, and we had met face to face. He waved his right hand with a sickle to wipe the sweat from his forehead, and his left hand grabbed a freshly cut grass. The grass cutter who was caught off guard surprised me to grow up and quickly judged that he was not a bad person. At the same time, I casually "clicked" and covered up my panic with a cough. I once again solemnly said to my sister, "I can't go this way alone in the future!" " A close call. If there are gangsters in the wild, it's no use calling for help! "

My sister and I arrived at the Lianghekou District Government before dark. I asked my sister how many miles she walked in an afternoon. She said that she had walked 40 miles. I asked the town government of Kannonji how many miles were left. She said it was 60 miles away. I thought about going back: if it rains, I have to find a place to stop. What if it rains again? Within three to five days after the rain stopped, it must be slippery up and down the mountain. The thin mud on the ridge will suck the shoes in, and it is extremely difficult to walk without shoes. I told my sister that school will start soon, and I'm afraid the rain will affect students' classes, so I won't go to Kannonji this time. That night my sister and I agreed to live in Lianghekou. The next morning, she went to Kannonji and I went back to the county seat.

Cannongji Town is under the jurisdiction of Lianghekou District Government. The district government arranged a room for us, and we had a rest after a hasty meal. The next morning, before dawn, I vaguely felt something moving in the corner next to my desk. I turned on the light.-Oh! It turned out to be a big black hen with chicken manure still standing there. I'm not sure whether this big hen was accidentally put here by its owner or whether it has been settled here for some time. If it is the latter, then I will run into the chicken's nest and disturb the chicken.

The return trip gives people the feeling that they are relaxed and quick to act. However, a fork in the road stopped me. Several pedestrians who followed me told me that if I took the left path, I would enter the uninhabited virgin forest and it would be difficult to get out again. I didn't rush ahead. It seems that I was right. In fact, it should not be 40 miles from Hejiayan to Lianghekou. The distance measured with our legs is so tired that it is probably magnified by our minds.

Sister and Kannonji

Decades have passed and my sisters have retired. After staying in Kannonji for more than a year, my sister was transferred to another place. Since I failed to reach Kannonji that time, I have imagined Kannonji in my mind countless times: at the foot of the mountain, a small square yard, lonely; Entering the gate, a row of bungalows are covered by the back wall, facing the gate, and there are several bungalows on the left hand side; The yard is empty, and the ground is covered with fine sand and gravel.

That is the starting point of my sister's work. She often talks about things there. I know that there are four ditches in this town, where three or four thousand people live. She said that a villager went to the township government to ask for a solution to the problem, but the township government could not meet his request, so he took the signs of the township party Committee and township government off the wall and threw them on the ground. The leaders of the township government also know that there is no way to be tough on such people, so they talk to him slowly. Seeing that the conversation was almost over, the villager's mood was relatively stable. The leader of the township government said, "Hey, everyone, people picked up the brand and they hung up again!" Several other people also played the side drums. The villagers looked at the two signs on the ground and the people around him. As he muttered, he bent down to lift the sign on the ground and hung it up again.

When my sister goes to the countryside, she always eats at the village cadres' home. The village cadres went to the village for a meeting, and their meals were charged to her sister's account. My sister spent a novel and fulfilling time there and left many interesting and unforgettable memories for her life.

Re-enter Kannonji

Recently, because of work, I had an opportunity to go to Kannonji. It took 30 minutes to get out of the county, from the expressway to the next expressway; Get off the expressway for 60 minutes, and then go to Kannonji via Lianghekou and Sendai. I have imagined Kannonji for 33 years, and it takes 90 minutes to drive. After passing the Sendai dam, the driver's exam began. Climbing and turning, every time it is like a mountain playing tricks on the driver with a narrow asphalt road. The driver seems to be playing hide and seek. Blindfolded, he still can't see the road behind the bend. He is willing to be teased and will never stop until he seems to get what he wants. My carsick female colleague vomited once when she was away from home. At this time, she couldn't help vomiting for the second time, and the driver temporarily stopped his game with the mountain road.

Oh, it turns out that the courtyard of the Kannonji government is not at the foot of the mountain, but on a mountain ridge! At that time, there were only bungalows, but now it is a magnificent building with a national emblem hanging in the middle and a hill behind it. The government is a hospital here. There is a relatively large open space diagonally opposite the health center. There are two bungalows on the open space, which are surrounded by cement boards. There is a big sign across the top of the bungalow, which says "bus terminal" I thought, so many buses? Why is there still a "station"? Approaching the "passenger station", the doors of both houses are closed, and one of them still has a sign, "Kannongji Village Police Office". Two brands make me a little confused.

Kannonji Kuching

From the first year of Daoguang in Qing Dynasty (182 1), the Qing court set up a county in Cannong County, which was called Heihe County. Xianfeng to Tongzhi, renamed Mianlue County. During Guangxu period, Heihe County was renamed as the county seat. At the end of the Qing Dynasty, Xiancheng was cancelled and Guannong Temple was sent for inspection. In the early years of the Republic of China, counties were re-established along the Qing Dynasty. In the 4th year of the Republic of China, Xiancheng was renamed as Xianzuo, which was under the jurisdiction of Lueyang County Department. In the 20th year of the Republic of China (193 1), the county system was abolished.

Xian Cheng is the assistant officer of the county magistrate. In the Ming and Qing Dynasties, Xian Cheng was an stereotyped official. There were not many county officials in Qing Dynasty, and there were only 345 county officials in more than 300 counties in China. Inspection Department: During the Ming and Qing Dynasties, inspection departments were set up in all towns, cities and passes, with the inspection department as the main official and the nine products under the jurisdiction of the county magistrate. Sasuke changed his name to Xiancheng, but it was not widely set up. It was located in an important place in the county and was not in the same city as the county governor. Responsible for all the affairs entrusted by the county magistrate, and guide and supervise the local police to deal with local police violations.

The first year of Daoguang, now 195. From 195, those who worked in Guannong Temple were either county officials or governors, and the highest level reached Grade 8, which is roughly equivalent to our deputy county level today. At some point, an official may occasionally squeeze into an important organization like today's Standing Committee, which shows that the geographical location of this place is very important and it is necessary to strengthen management.

Today's Kannonji looks very remote, because there are no provincial roads, national roads and railways. In the Guqinba Mountain area, except for the densely populated county, the traffic conditions in other areas are similar, so Cannongji is not remote and does not count.

Since it used to be a county seat, there should be streets. Walking on the road in front of the government of Kannonji town, just over 50 meters away, I am in the street. Narrow streets casually exceed 100 meters. Residents facing the street have restaurants, daily necessities and home appliance maintenance. There is a residential building opposite the lower end of the street, which is a resettlement site; The upper end of the street extends to the village department and primary school in Kannonji. There are many two-story buildings with ceramic tiles on both sides of the street, leaving only an old wooden house, which looks like an ugly duckling against the surrounding background, or just stands out from the crowd. The owner of the wooden house runs a mill and is an 80-year-old man. The old man's children are living in other places, the old house is leaking, and he himself has no strength to build a new house.

Is there a "temple" in Kannonji? Kannonji is a county, where is the county government? In the conversation with several elders, I learned that the former Guannong Temple and the county government are in the open space diagonally opposite the current health center. The courtyard left by the county government after its revocation has been a school for a long time. An old man said that there were other buildings on the old site of the temple, but the owners of the buildings could not get down. The old man didn't go on. I understand that there are always some unlucky things in the host's family. Over time, the former site of the temple has become a clearing, and recently there have been "bus stops" and "Kannonji Village Police Office".

There used to be a building on the site of the temple, which has been an open space for many years. Maybe something happened to the landlord, the landlord invited a teacher of Yin and Yang, or there are rumors among the people, all of which mean that the landlord built obstacles. Whether the accident has anything to do with the building or not, in short, no one wants to take any more risks here.

The scenery of Kannonji

It is not unusual to have sporadic households on the top of the mountain or halfway up the mountain; Building a street on the ridge becomes a landscape. If we compare the streets of Kannonji today to a person lying down, then this person is with his head high and his feet low-his head is Kannonji School, and the buildings in the settlement are the baffles at his feet.

Looking down from the street of Kannonji, there is a green black river flowing in the middle of the deep valley bottom. Both sides of the river are inhabited and the land is relatively flat.

Suitable for human habitation, it is often said that it is close to mountains and waters. In addition, we should also consider the dryness of the ground and the firmness of the foundation site, which is not easy to be attacked by floods and surrounding rock collapse; There is enough room for manoeuvre; Bright light and wide field of vision; The orientation of the location, such as what is facing away from, what is facing, what is on the left and what is on the right, are all important factors for human site selection. Generally speaking, it is reasonable for Kannonji's ancestors to build streets on ridges instead of valleys. Compared with the valley bottom, it is much more difficult to draft on the mountain ridge, and they would rather overcome this inconvenience. Even after his death, Mr Yu Youren has his own ideal home. In his poem Looking at the Mainland, he said, "Bury me on a high mountain, look at my mainland ... look at my hometown ... the sky is grey and the wilderness is boundless ..."

Kannonji should have streets or relatively concentrated residential areas first, and then the county government. The foundation of the county government is tens of meters higher than the street, as if it were built on a stage. Ancient officials not only held high positions, but also built mansions overlooking houses.

No knot.

After leaving Kannonji, I was thinking that the street should be north-south, because the street is parallel to the Heihe River, which flows from north to south. I can't guarantee that this conjecture is correct. My mobile phone has GPS and downloaded the compass. Besides, the sun was so big that I went, and I didn't even understand the east, west, north and south. Will the knot between me and Kannonji continue?