A glimpse of Malaysia (Ⅳ) Chinese Street, the ancient city of Malacca

There is a long and narrow ring road in front of Hongwu Square, which is very old. Across the road is the Malacca River, which is known as the Little Jiangnan, and the ancient city residential area surrounded by it.

along the banks of the river, there are green trees and flowers everywhere. The river is not wide, and the blue river is rippling and flowing gently. A huge windmill on the shore slowly turns with the wind against a row of wooden houses.

buildings on both sides of the strait are strewn at random with different styles. Grass, trees and flowers surround the cage. Rows of buildings with different shapes have a gorgeous exotic atmosphere. It has both the elegance of modern architecture and the nostalgia of white-walled Daiwa, which is common in China's Jiangnan water town. In particular, the China-colored paintings and Chinese calligraphy on the white wall make people easily think of the customs of water towns in southern China.

Walking along the Malacca River, you will find an ancient fort surrounded by broken walls and ruins under the blue sky and white clouds. An ancient cannon stood there with its head held high. Under the shadow of a lush tropical grass tree and colorful flowers, it tells people the scars brought by the smoke of history to this ancient city.

Malacca is an ancient city with many battles.

There is a maritime museum a little far from the ancient city. There is a huge sailboat, which is a replica of the prototype of the Portuguese galleon "Flower of the Sea".

In 152, the Flower of the Sea was launched in Lisbon, Portugal. This great ship was the largest ship in the world at that time. Later, it repeatedly participated in the war and conquered the Sultanate of Malacca with the fleet. On the way back with booty, it sank off the coast of Malacca.

look at it and appreciate the stormy life of our ancestors. I am filled with emotion. I can't help praying for peace. With today's peaceful and peaceful life. We can sit here and enjoy the red house square and the bustling and radiant tourists in front while resting.

At present, floats shuttle from time to time, which is dazzling. The floats modified by these tricycles are colorful. Full of flowers, full of flags and deafening music. The drivers were dressed in colorful clothes, revealing dark arms and faces, and inviting guests everywhere. They know more languages and are good at asking for prices. At the same time, he also serves as a tour guide to attract guests for the hotel.

Last Chinese Jonker Street

The Malacca River is crystal clear, and boats slowly pass by from time to time. Sitting on the hot shore, listening to the birds singing in the trees, the breeze is blowing slowly, which is really like being in the south of China.

crossing the small bridge over the Malacca River is the famous Jonker Street. This is an ancient city where Chinese gather. Antique, full of charm.

Jonker Street is a very busy street. It has a history of more than 3 years. Its original meaning is taken from "Jiechang Street" in Minnan dialect, because more than 6 years ago, Zheng He, a famous China navigator, made seven voyages to the Western Ocean and stayed in Malacca five times (or six times). More than 2 streets and lanes around Jonker Street became the earliest concentration of Chinese immigrants to Nanyang.

Walking here will give people the illusion of time travel.

When I entered Jonker Street, almost all of them were Chinese faces, striking Chinese characters and red lanterns. It's very much like going back to the long time in China.

the folk houses are very distinctive. Chinese old streets can be seen everywhere. The street is not wide, and there are old arcades all over the street. Many of them are two-story old buildings with a history of more than 1 years. Old streets and houses are filled with historical vicissitudes. On the lintel facing the street, many of them are inscribed with Chinese character plaques. Such as "Tongfa" and "Fengshun" are all font names left by Chinese ancestors in those days. There are Fujian Guild Hall, Hainan Guild Hall, Yongchun Guild Hall, Yong 'an Guild Hall, Guangdong Guild Hall and various religious temples. It seems that I have returned to my hometown in the south. It makes people feel kind.

Fujian Guild Hall and Hainan Guild Hall have a history of over 2 years. Especially the ancient building of Fujian Guild Hall is a classic. The cornice of the bucket arch and the two colorful three-dimensional panlong columns standing at the door are really artistic treasures. With obvious southern characteristics.

In addition to many ancient buildings with Chinese Nanyang style, there are also bustling markets in Jonker Street. There are many shopping shops, antique shops, cafes, restaurants, specialty shops and various stalls in the street. Sell all kinds of daily necessities, clothing, handicrafts, Chinese herbal medicines, and famous local products. There are also beautiful food and special snacks, which can feel the rich Nanyang flavor.

there are not many people here during the day, and it is the golden moment at night.

Every weekend, there will be a night market here. There are usually some cultural performances.

At the beginning of the lights, Jonker Street began to get busy. The narrow old street is lined with stalls selling all kinds of goods. Shops and restaurants are also brightly lit. Tourists of all colors rub shoulders and heels, which is very lively. All kinds of novel snacks that have never been seen before, and those unknown fruits will make people want to taste them. What tourists like most are all kinds of cakes. The old-fashioned Sanshugong pastry shop on the street is still antique. Customers are always crowded. Its cakes are people's favorite gifts to take away.

Walking in Jonker Street, you will find a small garden by the roadside. The area is not large. It is completely Chinese architectural style and gardening style. The flowers, trees and artistic sculptures inside are pleasing to the eye. It is a place for local residents to relax. It's really interesting to be quiet in such a noisy street.

At the end of Jonker Street, there is a stage. In the evening when there are activities, the city residents will gather there to watch all kinds of cultural performances with strong rural flavor. People sit under the stage and enjoy chatting and enjoying the fun of life.

Although Jonker Street is old, it makes people feel novel. Despite the noise, it is pleasant. I feel the strong local flavor of China here.

The Former Residence of Nunya

In Jonker Street and the surrounding streets, there were many wealthy and powerful Nunya in Malacca. Its unique "Nyonya culture" is an important part of tourists' curiosity.

"Chan" and "Nyonya" are mainly used in Southeast Asian countries. It refers to the immigrants from China in the Ming Dynasty who came to Malacca, Singapore and other places in the early 15th century and the local aborigines, mainly the mixed-race descendants of Malays. Also known as native Chinese or strait Chinese. From the root, it is generally believed that it mainly comes from two parts.

It is said that Zheng He, a navigator of the Ming Dynasty, made seven voyages to the Western Ocean and lived in Malacca. Someone will stay. After dying at sea for the last time, the Daming army stationed in the Malay Peninsula stayed behind, and the children born of intermarriage with local aborigines were called "Chan" for men and "Nyonya" for women. This is a widely circulated and widely accepted statement.

In addition, it is said that the Malay Chronicle records that Princess Han Libao of the Ming Dynasty in China married the Sultan of Malacca. Take 5 attendants. These people later intermarried with local nobles. It is widely circulated in the local area. However, there is no record in China literature. Not recognized by scholars.

In fact, the people left by Zheng He's fleet or those brought by the controversial Han Libao, even if they exist, are only a part of their ancestors.

Actually, as early as before or at the same time, there were Chinese who came to Nanyang from China, Guangdong, Fujian and other places to make a living. Especially at the end of Yuan Dynasty and the beginning of Ming Dynasty, civil wars were frequent, and many people were displaced and forced to go to Nanyang. It is said that the earliest arrival of Chinese in Nanyang can be traced back to the Tang and Song Dynasties. These people should be part of their ancestors after marrying the locals.

I once met a Chinese named Yun in Singapore. He called himself a Mongolian and has been here for generations. The history of immigration has been blurred.

Scholars have different views on the term "Nanyang native Chinese" or "Strait Chinese". However, it generally refers to the descendants of Chinese who first came to China and married local people. To distinguish it from the latecomers of traditional Chinese who are called newcomers.

These descendants of Chinese generally live in Malacca, Penang and Singapore.

Although they have lived here for generations. Far from China, it has inherited the traditional customs of the Chinese nation. Pay attention to filial piety and etiquette. Respect China tradition in culture and customs. They integrate the local language, clothing and eating habits into their daily lives, and also learn from the local Malay culture and customs. Whether it is language, diet, costumes or wedding ceremonies, it shows the characteristics of cultural integration between China and Malaysia. Especially in diet and clothing, it has formed its own unique characteristics. Its unique variety of Nyonya cuisine has become a major feature of Chanchan and Nyonya culture. Hundreds of years later, most of these people can't speak Chinese, and some have switched to English. Or a mixed language that combines Fujian dialect and Malay in China, called Chan-Chan dialect. Now these people have been integrated into the local people.

In the ancient city, we visited the representative museums of the ancestral houses of Chan Chan and Nyonya.

this is a private house. It is the ancestral home of a wealthy local family. The present owner is the fourth generation.

The museum is beside a quiet and not very wide street. Not very impressive. There is a plaque above the door. As required, we rang the doorbell before a thin old woman answered the door.

On the surface, the buildings in this former residence are simple and ordinary. It's not prominent in this street. No one would have thought that going in is like entering a beautifully carved, magnificent and dazzling history museum. Such a family is not a place in the ancient city.

what is a wealthy businessman? What is a big family? What is a noble house? You'll never know until you walk in.

this building has been owned by the Zeng family since 1861. The Zeng family lived here for four generations, and now the whole family has moved out. It was only in 1985 that it was changed to today's museum. The descendants of the Zeng family are still in charge of this family business.

It is said that the Singapore TV series little nyonya was filmed here. There is a photo of little nyonya's Ou Xuan in the room.

the architectural pattern of houses is extremely exquisite.

standing outside the living room, you can see a square hole above the roof. It is the observation hole where the owner looks out of the building on the second floor. You can directly observe the situation outside the hall. The function is similar to the cat's eye on the security door today. It can be seen that the original design was careful.

the first thing I feel after entering the hall is that the design style and decoration are luxurious. This building presents a multicultural and fashionable sense of the time when the wealthy family lived.

The interior decoration is basically Chinese style. A large number of gold lacquer wood carving techniques in southern China were used. At the same time, it also incorporates elements of Victorian architectural style in the Netherlands and Britain.

besides carved beams and painted buildings, exquisite wood carvings can be seen everywhere. Such as eaves, doors, corridors, screens, etc. All kinds of wooden furniture, such as cabinets, beds, tables, chairs, stools, ornaments, etc., also show the exquisite craftsmanship. The themes of carving are basically rocks, flowers, cranes, branches and leaves. Many are decorated with mother-of-pearl and marble.

Some furniture is inlaid with many pearls and shellfish, and at the same time, blooming cherry flowers and various rare birds are inlaid with all kinds of unknown rare materials.

furniture materials are extravagant. The carving area is deep and wide, and the grinder is finely inlaid. At the same time, the technique of round carving was used. Carved to life.

The plaque "Chasing Far" is hung above the living room. On the wall are photos of generations of ancestors of my family. There are the first Malay women in this family. There is a gentle Chinese male host. There are also several generations of couples taking photos, including the first and second generations of the family.

There are many exquisite gold and silver porcelain and exotic western handicrafts in the hall, which are amazing.

There are many exquisite old ceramic handicrafts in the hall and room. Both ornaments and utensils were customized and imported from famous porcelain manufacturers in Jiangxi and Guangdong, China.

There are many embroideries hanging on the living room wall. If you don't pay attention, you will think that they are some paintings. The patterns are mostly rich, auspicious and meaningful, such as pine cranes prolonging the year. It is said that the materials were shipped from China in those years, and the embroidered mother from Suzhou, China was invited to embroider them locally. It has a history of more than a hundred years.

the furniture used in the whole building, whether in the living room or bedroom, including the square table, plush chair, arhat bed, coffee table, cabinets and so on, has been passed down for generations. All of them have a history of more than a hundred years.

All furniture, doors, windows, columns and even stairs are made of the finest mahogany in China. The marble inlaid on the furniture comes from Dali, China, and it is inlaid with beautiful shells. All the tables and chairs are connected with a wooden last, without a nail. Even the stairs are nail-less. It is said that the master also invited craftsmen from China to make them locally.

the most amazing thing is that the golden painted flowers on furniture, doors and windows are pasted with gold foil. In fact, all the gold and silver decorative patterns in the whole house are made of gold foil and silver foil.

From today's perspective, every object in the whole building is a valuable work of art..

what I saw was really shocking. What is amazing about them is not the age and splendor. It does not lie in the delicacy of employment and the extravagance of throwing money like water. It is because these exquisite craftsmanship and precious materials, as well as great country craftsmen, traveled across the ocean in an era when transportation was inconvenient and the road was very long, and they came from China. Can't help but be deeply touched.

the screen door between the living room and the lobby is inlaid with translucent glass. It was also a luxury at that time. There is a big lantern hanging above the hall, which is the font size of the main house-there is a leisure patio outside the hall of Zengfu. There is a carved fish on the wall of the patio. It is not only a decoration, but also a drain. When it rains, the rainwater on the roof flows down through the water pipe in the wall and then out of the fish mouth. It's a beautiful sight.

the kitchen is very spacious. There are many household appliances on display.

the most amazing thing is the four sets of dishes. They are used in different occasions and have different functions.

The most beautiful set of doodles is used by the main family for weddings. The most plain blue and white ones are used for funerals. A set with red edges for guests. A set of white colors for dinner on weekdays. Four sets of tableware are used separately according to the occasion. This is the rule of a big family.

The stairs leading from the lobby to the second floor are carved with heavy China mahogany. The back of the stairs is carved with exquisite patterns and decorated with gold. It is said that this luxurious staircase is the only one.

Go up the stairs to the second floor, and there is the master's bedroom. It mainly displays the clothes and appliances of Chan Chan and Niangjia when they got married. A pair of models in the room are wearing the traditional costumes of Chan Chan and Niangjie when they got married. There are wedding utensils opposite.

It is said that Niang's wedding dresses are usually made by herself. In the old days, when a large family chose a wife, there were many criteria for assessment. Besides cooking, there is also an important condition: female red. Therefore, little nyonya can generally cook delicious food such as Niangjiagao. Their needlework directly affects their life.

Opposite the new house is Shoutang. Some family funerals, utensils and other things were displayed.

What is impressive is that there are two heavy fence doors at the exit of the stairs on the second floor, and when they are closed, the whole exit of the stairs is sealed. The key was kept by the hostess at home. Every day after dinner, little nyonya will go back to the house to make pearl embroidery and needlework. The master closed the door and locked the stairs. In this way, it can prevent gangsters from breaking into the upstairs at night to do evil. At the same time, young little nyonya can't sneak out to go shopping and meet lovers. It embodies strict traditional family rules and family education.

flow over time