Why is Shenzhen a gourmet desert?

Cantonese cuisine is rich in ingredients and meticulous in practice.

Located in the tropics along the coast, it provides Guangdong with rich and varied animal and plant ingredients and seasonings.

In practice, due to its long history, there are various cooking methods of ingredients.

Take eating geese as an example. There are roast geese, red roast geese, white cut geese, deer geese and drunk geese. Roasted goose with litchi wood is the best.

Cantonese will definitely say that their roast goose is more delicious than Beijing roast duck.

Ancient deep well, natural litchi wood, roasted goose, especially crisp, even, delicious/味味味味味味味味 @ Haig cuisine.

Guangdong's white-cut chicken and sauce chicken are more delicious than other chickens. Boiled chicken must also be served with Jiang Sha soy sauce.

Then take snacks, there is a strong morning tea culture; For dessert milk, play with double-skin milk, ginger milk and fried milk.

And on the basis of drinking, old fire soup, all kinds of attention.

In terms of seasonings, there are all kinds of seasonings in other places, and there are some that cannot be found in other places, such as fish sauce.

On the kimchi, there are not only prunes but also olives.

2065438+February 23, 2009, Guangzhou City, Guangdong Province, morning tea.

But Shenzhen, Guangdong seems to be an exception.

People who have stayed in Shenzhen for a period of time can't have never heard this sentence:

Where is fun in Shenzhen? Go to Hong Kong.

Where is delicious in Shenzhen? Go to Guangzhou.

Is Shenzhen really short of food and clothing, so that passengers are lost to the surrounding areas?

Shenzhen, a gourmet desert in the south.

As a first-tier city, Shenzhen people's spending power and a large number of foreign business travelers and tourists can certainly attract all kinds of catering businesses to open stores.

However, compared with similar cities, Shenzhen can't compare with Shanghai, let alone Guangzhou, which has the reputation of "eating in Guangzhou".

In 20 17, the overall operating income of Guangzhou catering industry was nearly double that of Shenzhen.

The number of enterprises above designated size and the income from meals in Guangzhou are more than those in Shenzhen.

Comparison of catering between Guangzhou and Shenzhen/Based on the data of Guangdong Statistical Yearbook 20 18.

This does not mean that Shenzhen people don't like food, nor does it mean that the catering industry can meet the needs of Shenzhen people when it develops to this extent.

According to the investigation of catering industry in 22 tourist cities, Shenzhen is the city with the highest demand for catering, and Shanghai is the city with the highest supply [6].

Shenzhen people's thirst for food can also be seen from Li Baoge's success in Shenzhen.

This is not an old shop. It started in Hong Kong and settled in Shenzhen on 20/0/3. After that, it grew rapidly and got a bonus from Shenzhen Taxation Bureau.

There are plenty of dishes in the store /facebook@ Libaoge

Today, Li Baoge has become the first comment on the list of Cantonese cuisine in Shenzhen. Its Kerry Store has about 17000 comments, leaving the second place with nearly 10000 comments [1][3].

However, the price of this store is not low, and the per capita consumption has reached 158 yuan.

A large number of Shenzhen locals or foreign tourists are willing to spend this store at a higher price.

The interior decoration is magnificent and the consumption level is not low /facebook@ Libaoge.

What spirit is this? People in Shanghai and Guangzhou can't hear it. Maybe only people in Beijing can hear it.

Judging from the stores with the most reviews in a single store, the per capita consumption of Cantonese cuisine in Guangzhou is 75 yuan, while that of Guimanlong, a local dish in Shanghai, is 86 yuan.

And Beijing is like a replica of Shenzhen in the north, with high per capita consumption and many reviews.

As an immigrant city, Shenzhen is a mega-city. Apart from Cantonese cuisine, it does have rich exotic foods, but it is not as good as Guangzhou and Shanghai.

20 17 12.24, Shenzhen Light Music Food Festival opened, and the food street was bustling with tourists.

Take Sichuan cuisine, which occupies a strong position in Guangdong, as an example.

Shenzhen has a high proportion of immigrants, and Sichuan immigrants can rank among the top three immigrants.

The Miao Sichuan cuisine with the highest single store comment in Shenzhen is about 1 1,000; In Guangzhou, Sichuan Rongyu (Jiangnan Avenue Store) with the highest single store reviews has 1.3 million pieces; There are 26,000 comments about Sichuan peppers in Shanghai [2].

In the hot pot list, Shanghai's first store, Shanghai's second brother, is much higher than Shenzhen's hot pot Bahe Caspian Sea, and Guangzhou's first hot pot Fengyuan Coconut Chicken Coconut Theme Restaurant is also higher than Bahe Li.

In terms of Japanese food, western food and Southeast Asian food, Shenzhen is not as good as Guangzhou and Shanghai at the top.

The comparison of the reviews of the shops with the largest number of comments on public comments shows that the local dishes in Shenzhen and Guangzhou are Cantonese cuisine, while the local dishes in Shanghai are Jiangsu and Zhejiang cuisine.

The number of public comments is small, either because the store was opened late or because there were few diners and there was no punching.

In either case, it reflects to some extent that the store is not hot enough, or there are fewer people who have received meals.

Guangdong, where food is a dime a dozen, why is Shenzhen hungry?

Shenzhen is still too young.

Shenzhen is an immigrant city.

Before 1980, there was no development in Shenzhen. At that time, the buildings on Shenzhen street were only about one floor high, standing within 3 square kilometers [4].

The short history of Shenzhen's development is rare in the world.

This determines that compared with other cities, Shenzhen has no time-honored brands and traditional snacks.

On February 7th, 20 19, the night scenes of Jingji 100 Building and Wang Di Building were very beautiful. "Shenzhen Speed" has left the tradition of this city behind.

The influence of historical inheritance on food culture is considerable.

For example, Chaozhou cuisine, because Chaoshan was once vast and sparsely populated, lacked food and loved porridge, became exquisite, making the best use of ingredients.

And all kinds of sacrificial foods in Chaoshan area, such as glutinous rice, have also spread to the daily diet [5].

If there is no drastic change, this food culture can continue to develop.

Compared with Guangzhou, where there are not as many immigrants as Shenzhen, Cantonese cuisine can do well in Guangzhou after 1980s.

Rice porridge after Chaoshan casserole/Bi Li Bi Li @ Wu Xiaoshi

At that time, Guangzhou absorbed elements such as brine from Chaozhou cuisine (also known as Chaozhou cuisine, which originated and prevailed in Chaoshan area of Guangdong Province), and also absorbed elements from Hong Kong-style Cantonese cuisine, and developed into "Cantonese cuisine" among most people today [8].

The saying that "food is in Guangzhou" has a long history.

Guangzhou people have always loved eating, and eating out costs more. Engel's coefficient and per capita food expenditure are high [17], which also supports the catering industry in Guangzhou.

Comparison of Engel's coefficient in five cities in early years (unit:%). Engel's coefficient is the proportion of catering to consumption, and Guangzhou has the highest proportion among cities. Investigation report on social and economic hot issues in China in 2006 [M]. Beijing: China Statistics Publishing House. 2007.

Local people love to eat, which can cultivate the local catering market, attract tourists for food tourism and further develop the catering industry.

Guangzhou and Chengdu are such examples [9].

As a small village, Shenzhen itself expanded rapidly after becoming a special economic zone and became a huge population pump in the south.

In 2005, Shenzhen has been an immigrant city with a population of 8 million, and 70% of the population is not local.

A large influx of immigrants are busy making money, not as fond of food as Guangzhou people, and have their own tastes. Consumption can not provide a strong driving force for cultivating catering.

20 18 July18, Shenzhen Huaqiang North Subway Commercial Street opened, with a flood of passengers. With the influx of population, various commercial streets came into being.

Chen Xiaoqing once had a Weibo saying:

Shenzhen is an immigrant city with a huge number of individuals, and almost everyone is their inner hometown, so the taste is a little unclear.

Due to the influx of people from Hunan, Hubei, Sichuan and other places. And the recent Northeasters, who brought Sichuan cuisine, Hunan cuisine and Northeast cuisine. Among them, the earliest developed Sichuan cuisine is stronger.

2018 June 15, Shenzhen Pingzhou subway station night market, where delicious food from all over the world is gathered.

These delicious foods from all corners of the country began to expand in Shenzhen.

However, Cantonese cuisine with no background in Shenzhen is excluded.

Local food is not strong, and it is difficult for foreign food to develop in Shenzhen.

Let's take Sichuan cuisine as an example. Sichuan cuisine is in the lower reaches of the contempt chain in Guangdong.

Cantonese cuisine, with extensive materials, light and delicate flavor, is at the top of the contempt chain; Sichuan cuisine, on the other hand, is very spicy and belongs to foreigners [8].

Even Cantonese cuisine itself, the more advanced the restaurant, the lighter the food, the more delicious it is, while the lower-end Cantonese restaurant may serve fried, sweet, salty and spicy dishes.

A Sichuan restaurant in Shenzhen does as the Romans do, serving small bowls of Sichuan noodles with light taste.

A Sichuan restaurant in Shenzhen does as the Romans do, serving light food.

Guangdong people eat vegetables and soup, Shenzhen Sichuan cuisine does as the Romans do, and there is also a Sichuan cuisine restaurant that provides sea cucumber and vegetable soup/呫呫呫呫呫呫 @ bunny.

Sichuan cuisine and Cantonese cuisine have different orientations, so it is difficult to win the love of people with different tastes at the same time.

In addition, can the development of different places develop authentic Sichuan cuisine?

It's not easy.

For short-term tourists, no one has to spend so much money to eat Sichuan food in Guangdong.

For the resident population, the mobility of Sichuanese in Guangdong is also greater than that of Cantonese, which is a fatal blow to the establishment of reputation of cuisines.

In the past three or four decades, Shenzhen has experienced a vigorous industrial iteration [7].

In this industrial iteration, the permanent population of Shenzhen is highly educated and the middle class is increasing [15].

On May 30th, 20 19, employees in the canteen of a large factory were ordering food. The gathering of large factories is also the attraction of Shenzhen.

Some people who have served in restaurants have left, and some newcomers have arrived in Shenzhen. Then, the establishment of word of mouth becomes difficult.

Secondly, in terms of consumption power, the per capita monthly income of local migrants in 2004 was 10 14 yuan, while the local registered population was 2 159 yuan [16].

The more restaurants that serve foreigners, the lower their spending power.

Shenzhen, which is difficult to let a hundred flowers blossom.

Guangdong cuisine in Shenzhen is not very developed, and Sichuan cuisine is not very developed. What about other dishes?

Speaking of it, Shanghai can become the first Michelin guide city in Chinese mainland, not only because of the local food, but also because of a certain kind of food.

The prosperity of Shanghai catering industry is the result of a hundred flowers blooming.

On 20 18 12 15, tourists visited the Yuyuan Garden in Shanghai and tasted all kinds of time-honored snacks, Nanxiang steamed buns, crab powder soup packets and so on.

2065 438+09. 6. 22 Many northerners don't understand why Shanghainese have to wait in line to buy soup packets. In their eyes, isn't this the ordinary steamed bread that every family can make?

2018 July 15, Shanghai, Cantonese Restaurant. In Shanghai, you can eat all over the world if you have money.

But why is Shenzhen not very famous in other dishes?

Behind the food of each city, it is inseparable from the characteristics of the city itself.

A study shows that the catering industry in a city is mainly determined by agriculture, transportation and water supply and power supply behind the city [6].

Although the traffic in Shenzhen is developed, it does not rank high in agriculture, water supply and power supply.

June 2065438+May 19, a traditional fisherman in Jiaochangwei, Shenzhen. Shenzhen was originally a small fishing village.

After becoming a special zone, Shenzhen has developed rapidly and expanded its area, but it is still a city with high population density in the world, and almost all of its areas are high-rise buildings.

Such a high density has affected the catering industry in Shenzhen from two aspects.

First, the supply of ingredients; Secondly, the architectural form will affect the catering vitality of the city.

2018 July 14, Luohu, Shenzhen, the old village was demolished, and the night market was very lively.

Within the jurisdiction of each city in China, a certain amount of agricultural land is generally reserved, so that the food supply has a certain self-sufficiency rate.

But Shenzhen is an exception.

Shenzhen lacks agricultural land, and the seaport is not used to develop fisheries.

In 2008, the self-sufficiency ratio of agricultural and fishery products in Shenzhen was already very low.

Chengdu is a model of developed agriculture around the city, which can supply Chengdu with a large number of vegetables. There is also a popular format that closely combines agriculture and catering: farmhouse music [10].

The self-sufficiency rate of ingredients in Chengdu, Nanjing, Shanghai and Shenzhen is the statistical year in brackets. Source: Lang G, Miao B. Urban Food Security in China [J]. International Planning Research, 20 13, 18 (1): 5-20.

This situation will not change. A few non-construction land in Shenzhen are mainly used for afforestation and golf course construction [10, 13].

Among other cities in Guangdong, Guangzhou itself produces a large number of vegetables and aquatic products, and Foshan and Dongguan also produce more.

The diversion of precious land in Shenzhen will inevitably increase the transportation cost of ingredients.

It is not that there is anything wrong with such resource allocation, but from the perspective of eating goods, Guangzhou seems to be more suitable for a trip to eat goods.

Output of aquatic products, pork and vegetables in Shenzhen-Guangzhou, Foshan and Dongguan in 20 17/drawn according to Guangdong Statistical Yearbook 20 18.

The influence of land lies not only in the supply of ingredients, but also in the place for dining.

Shanghai has catering construction land. In 20 18, there were more than 65,438+10,000 restaurants in Shanghai, and the number and density of restaurants ranked first among cities in China [1 1].

However, the number of restaurants in Shenzhen is small, and chain restaurants are developing towards compactness.

The ratio of the business area and the number of seats divided by the number of employees in Shenzhen is a low point in big cities [12].

Basic information of chain catering enterprises in Shanghai, Guangzhou and Shenzhen in 20 17/Based on the data of Statistical Yearbook of Retail and Catering Chain Enterprises in China in 20 18.

The ratio of the number of seats divided by the number of employees is low, which indicates that the more employees, the fewer seats are served. To some extent, it shows that they are more exquisite and may be more expensive when the land in Shenzhen is more tense.

And restaurant chains are generally successful and mature catering enterprises.

This may explain that Shenzhen is not completely devoid of food, but lacks more food that ordinary people can afford.

2015 65438+128 October, a well-known hotel in Shenzhen, the price in Shenzhen is very high, you can eat and play, as long as you can afford it.

Fortunately, friends in Shenzhen don't have to wait too long.

Nowadays, Shenzhen has become an ideal place for many people to move to, and gradually presents the characteristics of high income and high food consumption.

The Engel's coefficient of Shenzhen (referring to the proportion of food consumption expenditure to total expenditure) exceeds the national level in the same period, and also exceeds that of Beishangguang [14].

20 18 10 3, Shenzhen Miaojie Food City is a lively scene. The food demand of Shenzhen people is no less than that of any first-tier city.

The middle class in Shenzhen is rising, and its taste is very personalized [15].

Even if Shenzhen people have never really been "full" in the past, there will be people scrambling to satisfy Shenzhen people's stomachs in the future.