Why do Suzhou people pay attention to "noodle soup" when eating noodles?

Suzhou Tou noodle soup is a famous dish with all colors and flavors, belonging to Suzhou cuisine. One of the delicacies in Tip of the Tongue 2, the so-called soup, refers to the first batch of noodles cooked with clear water just one day after the noodle restaurant opened. Many people who have eaten noodles in Suzhou remember this scene, such as celadon-like soup bowls, various table number wooden clips on the Eight Immortals table, several green vegetables in the first bowl of noodle soup, sesame oil and shallots floating on the noodles. Many Suzhou people of the older generation have the impression that they used to be able to eat a bowl of authentic noodle soup for a few cents in Songhelou.

A good Su-style noodle soup has the characteristics of "three scalds": noodle scalding, soup scalding and bowl scalding. Even in the cold winter, eating it can make you sweat. "Old Suzhou" will naturally be eaten while it is hot. It is better to finish the noodles in three to five minutes, which is the original flavor.

Even a bowl of Yangchun noodles, because the noodles absorb the fresh soup of meat and bones, just eating noodles is enough to feel the thick taste.

The exquisite Suzhou people naturally prefer this dish.

I have been to Suzhou by accident and like this kind of noodles very much. Every word is fresh.

Suzhou people are famous for their noodle soup. What Suzhou noodle restaurants can't be missed in Suzhou?

Today, I went to eat a bowl of sufa pot noodles with my friends. I have retired for more than half a century. I'm afraid I won't catch up with the soup, so I deliberately missed the morning rush hour and slowly passed.

As soon as the pot cover noodles came up, we were busy taking pictures. About before we moved chopsticks, Uncle Han came to our table and said with a smile, "Noodles are going to agglomerate."

"In the past, when three or four people ate noodles together, the bowl was so big," Han Bobo said with his hand. "When I was a child to eat with adults. In the past, there was much oil, and the oil in my mouth floated straight, which was delicious. "

Five meat and five vegetables, commonly known as Five Blessingg.

Five meats: peeled pork belly, Kaiyang, scallop, tendon and shrimp.

Five elements: mushrooms, fungus, day lily, bamboo shoots, oil gluten.

Vegetable toppings should use vegetable oil wok (fire, oil pan), and meat toppings should use lard wok, not one wok.

Master Qian Wanxing improved the method of making the noodles for restoring sufa, and used a little stock instead of oil to make the taste fresher, which was different from the thick oil red sauce in which the noodles were directly poured into the oil pan.

The soup and noodles on the pot surface are separated, unlike Su noodles.

Suzhou people pay attention to soup, meticulous to the bone. At 3 o'clock in the morning, the masters will start hanging soup and cook it with fresh pig bones, vermicelli bones, grass chicken, mushrooms and pig skin for 4-6 hours. The noodle soup we had in the store at 9: 00 was the best. It was full of collagen, which made the soup mouth "smack" and had a strong taste.

With permission, we went into the kitchen to visit.

The aunt who cooked noodles quickly grabbed a handful of noodles, and it was two and a half standards. She turned and threw it into the boiling pot.

The prepared auxiliary juice is lined up on the edge of the pot, and a spoonful is added to the bowl from the broth that has passed by (the pot keeps boiling), and the red soup is ready. When these two barrels of broth are used up, today's noodles will be over.

After a while, the water came out. I picked up a long chopstick and waved it in the Guanyin bucket. I quickly shook it twice in the air and rolled it tightly into a Guanyin head.

When filling the bowl, you don't drag water or splash soup, and you can do it in one go at the moment of turning around. Into the bowl, it should be like the back of crucian carp, slightly arched in the middle, and the noodles are neat as if they had been coded.

It is impossible to do it in three or four years with the following efforts.

In Suzhou, bamboo shoots and oil noodles are used in spring, and Fengzhen meat noodles and Sanxian shrimp noodles are eaten in summer. In autumn, it's time to eat crab noodles. In winter, all we need is a bowl of warm and strong hoofed noodles.

Where to eat noodles is obviously the four seasons.

A few steps in a city is a noodle restaurant, which has been more than 30 years old. Every noodle restaurant that can be opened has every parent, so it is impossible to compete.

However, if you want to eat this delicious bowl of Five Blessingg pot cover noodles, you must come to Qian Wanxing.

Suzhou people like to eat noodles.

Many people eat noodles.

Noodles jiuduo

There will be more pressure on the opposite side.

A bowl of authentic Soviet-style noodles pays attention to noodles, dew, soup, pouring and green.

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Pay attention to surface

Eat freshly squeezed noodles.

Noodles are noodles. Noodles need to be pressed now, and the taste of noodles will be poor after more than 3 hours, so people who eat noodles in the afternoon sometimes ask: Is it pressed in the afternoon?

Below, more water, less noodles.

The pot below should be big, with more water and less noodles. When the noodles are thrown down, the water is still boiling, and the heating time of the noodles is short, so the noodles are delicious. So the pots in the noodle restaurant are very big. If there is less water and more noodles, put the noodles down. The water has been boiling for a long time. That kind of noodles is not delicious. There is a technical term called "swollen face". Give this kind of noodles to customers, and no one will go next time.

Hard and rotten, you can ask for redone if you don't like it.

Hard noodles are cooked for a short time and rotten noodles for a long time. Rotten noodles are just soft, not really rotten. About half of Suzhou locals will ask the following masters if they are harder or worse when eating noodles. Different masters may have different grasp of hard and soft. If the hardness is too bad, you can ask for a new bowl.

Wide surface and fine surface

Suzhou used to have several sizes of noodles, which were distinguished by their widths. Wide face, universal face, thin face. In the past, ordinary noodle restaurants usually had two or three specifications, but now there are fewer, probably because the requirements of the width opposite the market are not sensitive, so now ordinary noodle restaurants only operate one kind of noodles, but they have nowhere to go if they want to eat wide noodles.

Pay attention to dew and soup.

The formula of a noodle sauce can't be changed at will.

Dew is the formula of various spices, which is prepared in the middle of the night and used in the morning. This is the root of a noodle restaurant, because dew determines the basic taste and customer base of noodles, so the formula of dew cannot be easily changed. It is easy for an old Suzhou to find out whose noodles this is, or to point out where the noodles in the franchise stores are different.

The boss turned it off himself.

Dew is usually a secret recipe, and the boss usually makes it himself. It is said that the dew of Zhu Hongxing, the largest noodle restaurant in Suzhou, contains juice boiled with eel bones. After some time-honored brands were publicly owned, many of them were lost, which led to the closure of those noodle restaurants.

Red soup and white soup

Those with soy sauce in the dew are called red noodle soup, and those without soy sauce are called white noodle soup. Now people eat less soy sauce, and the business of red soup is not as good as that of white soup. Most noodle restaurants only make white noodle soup, and occasionally there are several red noodle soups and white noodle soups. Only red noodle soup is rare, but some customers still like red noodle soup.

Ordinary red soup also contains sugar. If friends who can't stand sweet dishes come to Suzhou, it's best to eat white noodle soup.

Soup is not very particular.

Soup, if you don't pay attention to it, is just ordinary broth, and its taste is all in dew. Before serving, you will add oil, dew and soup to the noodle bowl until the noodles come out.

Jin Tang kuantang mixed noodles

Because dew is constant, customers ask for more soup. No soup is called mixed noodles, less soup is called tight noodle soup, and more soup is called wide noodle soup. When handing in the ticket, what I heard most was the requirements of "tight soup and hard noodles" and "wide soup and rotten noodles", which are only for noodle soup. Oil is extra, so people often ask for "free oil".

Tight soup and noodles are very heavy, and the taste is very light after adding soup. There are many noodle soups in Suzhou, so especially the red noodle soup is too heavy, even if it is not tight, it tastes too fresh and salty. If you like light friends, you'd better eat white noodle soup.

Toutang

The older generation of Suzhou people like to eat noodles in the early morning when the noodle restaurant just opened, because the water below was still clear and the noodles tasted the best. The first pot of noodles under clear water is called "noodle soup"

Want to come to "noodle soup" has long been sought after by Suzhou people, and the old people who get up early in Suzhou still maintain the tradition of chasing noodle soup.

It is true that this noodle is delicious. The main noodle soup is that we like to eat noodles in advance here Noodle soup is very important. It's all bones, chicken and Kaiyang noodles. It's usually half-cooked. After eating this noodles, I feel that the noodles in other places are average.

Hello, I'm Lamian Noodles. I have been engaged in the beef noodle industry in Lanzhou for many years, and I have a unique and professional opinion on pasta with local characteristics. Noodle soup is not only an exquisite noodle for Suzhou people, but also a lot of pasta with China characteristics. For example, I also pay attention to eating the first bowl of noodles in Lanzhou, which is the same reason. Let me talk about the mystery!

The personal homepage has a series of video tutorials produced by Lanzhou Lamian Noodles and the sharing of various recipes in Lamian Noodles. Those who are interested can go and have a look.

Professional people look at doorways and don't know how to watch the fun. Many opinions about noodle soup are different, but they don't get to the point and don't say why!

Pay attention to the first noodle soup: the change of umami flavor

No matter what kind of special noodle soup it is, all kinds of fresh seasonings will be used in the preparation of the soup base, such as monosodium glutamate, delicious treasure and so on. For example, there are many soy sauce soups in Suzhou, and various brands of soy sauce seasonings will be added to the soup base, and soy sauce contains a lot of sodium glutamate, which is often called monosodium glutamate. That's why the soup base is delicious!

However, what many people don't know is that the seasonings added in the soup are not static, but the umami flavor will be lost with the extension of the storage time of the soup, which is also an important reason why many people pay attention to eating noodle soup. That is to say, the practical significance of noodle soup is that only by tasting the soup base just prepared at the first time can we experience the best taste!

Such a small detail in catering also reflects a phenomenon, why the taste of noodle soup base with stable passenger flow will not change much, while the taste of noodle soup base with unstable passenger flow will change from good to bad in one day! This is because noodle restaurants with stable passenger flow will adjust the amount of soup base according to the usual passenger flow, so that the cooked soup will not stay for a long time, so that the taste can be guaranteed and the fresh fragrance of the soup base will not be lost, because it will be sold out before the taste of the soup base changes. On the contrary, noodle restaurants with unstable passenger flow will sell soup bases from morning till night, and the natural taste cannot be guaranteed!

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Pay attention to the first noodle soup: the preservation of the soup base.

There are two important reasons that affect the change of soup base, one is the relationship between the flavor of soup base and time, and the other is the preservation of prepared soup base.

Generally in noodle restaurants, there are two ways to preserve the soup base. One is to heat the prepared soup continuously with low fire to ensure the temperature of the soup, and the other is to heat the soup intermittently. Boil the fire or heat it when guests come, and turn off the fire when there are no guests!

The above two common preservation methods of soup materials, no matter which one, will cause the taste change of the prepared soup materials, because the soup materials will be accompanied by the evaporation of water during the heating process, which means that the water in the prepared soup materials will be reduced, but the seasoning will not be reduced, so the taste of the soup materials will be too salty! The taste of other seasonings will become heavier, which will directly affect the taste of the soup base! This is also an important reason to pay attention to eating noodle soup!

The personal homepage has explanations of various practices of beef mutton soup and sharing of soup-making experience, and regularly answers common questions about soup-making.

The taste of soup base will change with time, so will noodles, but the change of noodles is indirect!

Changes of noodle taste:

Whether noodles are delicious or not depends mainly on whether the noodles taste rich and smooth and whether the noodles are fragrant enough! In noodle restaurants, there are countless bowls of noodles to be cooked in a day. Most of the water for cooking noodles in a noodle restaurant is used from morning till night, which will lead to a situation. The greater the amount of noodles cooked, the more turbid and sticky the water becomes, and the taste of the cooked noodles will change from smooth to sticky at the beginning, mainly because the state of the water for cooking noodles has changed, so the noodle soup for the first time, whether it is noodle taste or soup base taste, is in the best state!

The noodles in Suzhou are all alkaline, that is, edible alkali is added to the noodles. When alkaline noodles are cooked, the water in the cooked noodles will turn dark brown or red, which is the function of alkali in noodles. At this time, the discolored noodles cooked will also have a strong alkaline taste, so the fragrance of the noodles itself will be covered by the alkaline taste, thus affecting the taste of the noodles! This will not happen in noodle soup!

The personal homepage has a series of video tutorials made by Lanzhou Lamian Noodles and various recipes shared by Lamian Noodles. I often share them:

Explain all kinds of pasta practices, make all kinds of soups, and explain all kinds of stew practices.

What is noodle soup?

Suzhou proverb says, "Noodles should be soup, and bathing should be muddy soup." It means eating noodles while it's early. The first bowl of carefully cooked noodle soup is always the clearest and freshest. The water below should be clear, and it will smell like alkaline water when it is turbid.

The older generation of Suzhou people like to eat noodles in the early morning when the noodle restaurant just opened, because the water below was still clear and the noodles tasted the best. "Head noodle soup" is the first pot of noodles cooked with clear water in the morning, which has no alkaline taste. Too much noodles will paste and have a strong alkaline taste. Only noodle soup is refreshing and delicious.

Different from Hui noodles, beef noodles and squeezed river noodles in the north, a bowl of Su-style noodle soup is the most valued by Suzhou people. It is boiled in a large pot and shows its strong flavor. After a long time, the soup becomes turbid. Therefore, many old Suzhou people have to eat a bowl of noodle soup early in the morning to really get full.

If noodle soup can be widely circulated, it must be attributed to teacher Lu. I have read the Gourmet written by him many times, and Zhu Autonomy, who has always been despised by the protagonist and shameless, is simply my idol in his persistent pursuit of food. He just likes noodles in soup.

Every day when I wake up, an idea pops up in my mind: "Go to Zhu Hongxing to eat noodle soup!" " "If he doesn't eat noodles with soup on his head, he will be depressed all day, and eating a bowl of noodles with soup will always feel a little unhappy.

The world of eating goods is so inconsistent.

There are many exquisite noodle soups in Suzhou. First of all, a bowl of good noodles should be scalded four times: soup scalding, noodle scalding, pouring scalding and bowl scalding. The literal meaning is also easy to understand: soup should be hot, noodles should be hot, and it should be hot when eating; There are more and more people eating noodles, and it is difficult to pour and iron bowls.

Every old Suzhou has its own preference for eating noodles, and the terms of eating are also very characteristic of Suzhou: hard noodles, rotten noodles, mixed noodles, noodle soup, tight soup, wide soup, salt reduction, salt increase, heavy green, no green and no oil. ...

Hard surface requires shaving; Rotten noodles are slightly overcooked; No soup is mixed noodles; Less soup is tight soup; Too much soup is wide soup; Heavy green means more garlic; No oil means no lard; Heavy green means more garlic leaves, and no green means no garlic leaves; Heavy surface and light pouring is multi-faceted and less topping; When crossing the bridge, don't cover the topping on the noodle bowl. When eating, put it on another plate and hold it with chopsticks. Quite special.

People don't pay much attention to this now, and noodle restaurants also provide standardized noodle soup. If you want to cross the bridge, you may have to pay more. Of course, eating small dishes costs more.

I have eaten Zhu Hongxing, but my authentic northerner's stomach really doesn't adapt to the sweet, bland Su-style noodle soup. It's true that one side of the soil and water support one side, and a place has its own taste.

Noodle soup is not the name of a certain noodle. Noodle soup refers to the first batch of noodles when the noodle restaurant opens in the morning, because the water in the pot is fresh and the alkali in the noodles is easily released. The water behind will be more and more mixed in the noodles, which will affect the eating of noodles. The pot at the bottom is very big. If it is mixed, it takes time and temperature to replace all the boiling water in a large pot. Therefore, in general noodle restaurants, water is put into the noodle pot with the tap on the bottom, but it is not as good as the water in the first shop.

This is a kind of pressure and a habit. Just like the old farmers in the northern rural areas, the first thing in the morning is to boil water first, then brew big leaf tea, and the tea oil will be one finger thick after boiling. They are the most particular about drinking the first bowl. If you have relatives and neighbors at home at this time, they will advise you to drink like wine and be very enthusiastic. But sensible people will never drink, and will find various reasons to be modest. If you meet someone who is not sensible, take it and drink it. After you leave, they will rinse the teapot and brew it again. This is the pressure of life and a kind of culture.

The most important thing for Suzhou people is to eat noodle soup. Thousands of bowls of noodles, a pot of soup, down to 1000 bowls, the noodle soup is burnt, the noodles are not so refreshing and slippery, and there is a smell of noodle soup.

Head noodle soup, the so-called head noodle soup, refers to the first batch of noodles cooked with clear water just one day after the noodle shop opened. Many people who have eaten noodles in Suzhou remember this scene, such as celadon-like soup bowls, various table number wooden clips on the Eight Immortals table, several green vegetables in the first bowl of noodle soup, sesame oil and shallots floating on the noodles. Many Suzhou people of the older generation have the impression that they used to be able to eat a bowl of authentic noodle soup for a few cents in Songhelou. In addition, the first pot of bone soup in the morning is also better, and the topping is fresh.