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You asked the right person. I am a Miao girl from Rongshui Miao Autonomous County. In the university, the teacher is a doctor of ethnology, and I arranged a small paper for her. Some of them are my own experiences, and of course I also refer to some literatures.

Rongshui Miao costume culture

My hometown is in the beautiful Rongshui Miao Autonomous County. It is no exaggeration to say that it is beautiful. Compared with Guilin, Rongshui Miao Autonomous County has simple folk customs, original ecological scenery and pollution-free river water. Although it is not as famous as Guilin, it also maintains the ecological balance of Miaoshan. Melting water can be described as a "paradise" hidden deep in the mountains!

Learning "Language and Culture" has aroused my thirst and strong curiosity for my hometown culture. 20121210/Rongshui Miao Autonomous County held its 60th anniversary celebration. The wonderful performances full of Miao customs made me interested in my hometown culture.

I am also a Miao, and I have been exposed to my own culture since I was a child. And my junior high school is an ethnic middle school. In the minority class, I have a more specific understanding of Miao culture and history.

Miao nationality is an international nation that originated in China. In the 20 10 census, the total population of Miao people was 9.426 million, mainly distributed in Guizhou, Hunan, Yunnan, Chongqing, Guangxi and other provinces. Miaoling Mountain and Wuling Mountain, where Miao people live together, have mild climate, and are surrounded by mountains and waters, with large and small dams scattered all over the place.

Melting water seedling branch: this branch calls itself "wood" According to the language and dress, the Miao people in Rongshui can be divided into five categories: partial Miao, red-headed Miao, flower Miao, white Miao and plain Miao. Its various clothes reflect each other. Among them, the most gorgeous is the flower seedling. Miao Hua's clothing is complex, multi-layered and colorful. The most common in meltwater is actually white seedlings. It is the familiar white seedling in silver ornaments.

Miao costumes are also divided into casual clothes, holiday clothes and wedding dresses. I belong to Bai Miao, Miao, and I have my own set of clothes, which are holiday clothes. Of course, the Miao costumes in Rongshui have been improved a lot in order to facilitate action and performance.

Generally speaking, there are many totems or symbols of dragons and birds in Bai Miao costumes. Every tribe or branch has its own Tutankhamun. Miao people in Rongshui Miao Autonomous County advocate dragon birds. Some websites say Phoenix, but it's not true. Our holiday clothes have a unified name-Hundred Birds Clothing. This is enough to show that we Miao people actually advocate the god bird instead of the phoenix.

First of all, let me introduce our Miao people's casual clothes.

Casual wear is only based on its style and convenience. However, there is no simple process for the production of Miao costumes. Casual clothes are mainly composed of purple bright cloth and indigo cloth. Making such cloth needs to go through many processes such as dyeing, bleaching, drying, beating and painting. It is roughly like this: spinning white cloth with hemp thread, washing it with warm water once after getting off the machine, drying it in the sun, putting it in a big dyeing vat filled with indigo glutinous rice sweet wine boiled by special plants, taking part in diving and stirring, taking out clear water, drying it in the sun, and soaking it several times a day for five or six days, which is called indigo cloth. When indigo cloth is processed into purple sequined cloth, it needs to be boiled with dry cowhide into glue, and the filtered juice after mashing yam is put into a bucket with glutinous rice grass ash water, and then the cloth is soaked and dried several times, and the cloth becomes hard. Then spread it out, coat it with egg white, beat it repeatedly with a special mallet, and then dry it. This process takes about three times. After a few days of beating, dip duck feathers in the cloth with a warm water brush to prevent cracking. Of course, when I was a child, I often accompanied my grandmother to make Miao bu. Girls have been doing miao clothing with their female elders since childhood, because in Miao nationality, exquisite workmanship is the first consideration for girls. Or you can't get married. Unfortunately, this tradition is gradually forgotten. Make this cloth into clothes and add lace embroidered with patterns and dragon patterns. It is made into casual clothes. Miao costumes are not used to buttons. Generally, the front is folded in half left and right, and the waist is tied with rope cloth. Of course, in Miao costumes, for convenience, some even sew hidden buttons. Wear pleated skirts or trousers at the bottom. In order to facilitate movement and do farm work.

Casual clothes have no headdress. After the woman curls her hair, she simply wraps her head in soft black or blue cloth. There must be a "prick" on the foot. It is also tied with rope cloth. There must be rules about how to tie it.

Then, the holiday costumes are quite gorgeous. Melting water is also known as "the hometown of hundred festivals". Miao people are hospitable and like to entertain and dance with each other from village to village, so there are many established festivals and festivals. This is indispensable, that is, a beautiful bird costume, which is simply a beautiful scenery.

Hundred Birds Clothing is a branch of Miao costumes with a long history, and there are many legends about it. From the Miao people's worship of birds. Miao ancestors hunted all kinds of birds in the mountains during migration and after settlement, thanking birds for bringing them food, and the worship of birds came into being. Not only will birds be embroidered on clothes, but also various feathers will be decorated on the hem of clothes. The cloth of bird clothes is self-spun, self-dyed, self-woven indigo cloth or purple bright cloth. In addition to cloth, there are layers of shoulders and waistlines embroidered with bird patterns, which can reach hundreds in size. Strictly traditional bird clothes have 68 strings of earth pearls, 9 pearls in each string, totaling 6 13 pearls; There are 10 down hanging at the end of each bead, totaling 680. Plus all kinds of lace handkerchiefs embroidered with velvet. The skirt consists of 16- 18 embroidered stripes, and the lower end of the stripes is covered with badminton, mostly white feathers. The inner skirt is pleated, and hundreds of straight pleats are pressed one by one. Hand-made bird clothes are worth tens of thousands to hundreds of thousands of yuan.

Men's wear includes tops, vests, headscarves, belts and leggings. Women's wear is very complicated, including Miao Yin headdress, neck collar, longevity lock, coat, shawl, belt, ribbon, pleated skirt and leg cover. Because clothes are layered, it is usually the grandmother at home who helps the little girls dress up. Because different parts of the skirt are exquisite, you can't go wrong with the leg covers. If that girl wears the wrong program, insiders can see it at a glance and will be laughed at.

Of course, it would be a little sad if such a complicated female bird suit is made of purple bright cloth and covered with heavy Miao silver ornaments, but it can't sit.

I really haven't seen a wedding dress, because my grandmother died early and my parents have settled in the city. I don't have a wedding dress.

Unfortunately, I don't know the wedding clothes of Miao girls. It is said that this is a home with girls, and my mother has made it for girls since she was a child. Then teach the girl Miao Xiu, batik. Until the girl gets married. This kind of wedding dress can only be worn once in a lifetime. I only saw it once at menstruation's house in the country. It's amazing. But it's not a traditional wedding dress, it's an improvement. Because the technology is complex and there is a lot of real money, almost no one in the younger generation can make it. Maybe it has been frozen by history.

But I know from my aunt that an unmarried Miao woman wants to learn embroidery, and there are still many people who can learn it. It's called pre-marital embroidery, also called flower picking show.

Flower embroidery is a handicraft that can best embody the beautification of Miao girls' lives. In addition to carefully embroidered holiday costumes, they also secretly embroidered handicrafts that only their hearts can understand. This is Miao's "pre-marriage embroidery", also called "secret embroidery".

The so-called pre-marital embroidery is actually to embroider hats, floral dresses, bags, suspenders and other accessories for future children. In order to avoid others gossiping, Miao girls embroider these articles for outsiders, and they are embarrassed to let their fathers and brothers see them, especially their younger brothers of the same age. Even if their mother or sister-in-law finds out, they can't tell anyone.

"Secret embroidery" usually ends on the eve of a girl's wedding. Generally, there are four or five flower hats, seven or eight flower coats, two or three coats and three or four suspenders. The girls wrapped up the embroidery and gave it to their mother for safekeeping. But if mother dies, she will give it to her sister-in-law. These exquisite and beautiful embroideries will be put on hold in her house for many years. After the girl got married, it was not until she gave birth to her first baby that the relatives and friends of the two families happily drank the full moon wine together, and then her family took it out one by one and put it on the long table in the main room for everyone to enjoy.

Miao women are also good at batik. They spread white cloth on the table, put beeswax or turpentine into a small pot, heat it to dissolve it into juice, and draw it on the cloth with a bamboo needle or wax knife. Generally, we don't make proofs, but only draw pictures with ideas. Their paintings are symmetrical and appropriate, such as flowers, birds, insects and fish, and Wei Sha Xiao Wei. After painting, put it in a dye vat for dyeing, then take it out and boil it with clear water, rinse it to remove wax, and there will be a pattern of white flowers with blue background or black background.

Miao silver ornaments are all made by local craftsmen. Silver ornaments include silver head ring, silver crown, silver collar, silver bracelet, silver medal, silver chain, silver feather, silver hairpin and silver flower. Production depends entirely on manual operation, with many procedures and high labor cost. For example, to make a silver head ring, it is necessary to draw silver into silver wires with slightly thicker hair, and then gather dozens of silver wires together to form a polygonal silver ring. The silver crown is more exquisite, and the crown frame is decorated with ornaments such as silver flowers, tapiscia sinensis, silver needles, silver butterflies and silver labels.

After entering the 2 1 century, Miao people, like other ethnic minorities, have been greatly impacted by foreign cultures. Most of them usually wear ordinary clothes, and only when they participate in festivals and festive activities will some people wear their own national costumes.