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Shirt making process?
initial communication
as soon as the guests enter the store, the booking expert or tailor will come forward to receive them, ask about their needs, and guide them to the exclusive library table for initial communication.
Choose the occasion and fabric
Customized shops with general specialty. If there are specified requirements, professionals will provide advice; Unless otherwise specified, guests will generally be asked in detail about the occasion and function of custom-made clothing; Regarding the choice of cloth, the master of the shop will recommend the one that is most suitable for the guests and help them choose.
measurement of dimensions
the master needs to measure the detailed dimensional data of the guests and record their physical characteristics. Generally, there are two ways: 1. Make use of the existing shirts in Shige store and invite guests to try them on, so as to more directly understand the style details and looseness of the guests' preferences and improve the understanding and accuracy of the customized clothes that customers want; 2. The guest should bring a comfortable shirt for the master's reference.
communication of details
every detail on customized clothes can be adjusted and changed.
shirts tailored by professionals generally consist of at least 15 different accessories, and each accessory used also provides a variety of unique choices. It consists of 5, fabrics, more than 2 neckline and cuff designs, 1 different neckline linings, 24 embroidery styles and 3 different embroidery thread colors. Many guests will ask for more careful fine-tuning to make the shirt more personalized. For example, the collar tip is lengthened? Inches, or collar tip distance? Inches and so on.
Design personalized patterns
The custom-made experts and tailors will take measurements for customers and write down the personal posture and characteristics. When making patterns, we will combine different details, such as the slightly inclined left shoulder or the size change required for a strong chest, with the customer's patterns, in order to make the clothes cut neatly and comfortably.
cutting and sewing
each shirt is individually cut to match the fabric pattern from the shoulder to the sleeve and sleeve fork. Subsequently, each cut piece will be shrink-proof in the workshop to minimize the shrinkage in the future. The French stitching of shirts is done with a single stitch and 22 stitches per inch.
First fitting
After the initial communication is completed for 1-2 weeks, the guests need to go to the store for their first fitting, and the master needs to make fine adjustments to various details repeatedly to ensure the fit of the clothes. All the details of the changes will be recorded on the guest's pattern at the same time to guarantee future orders, and shirts will be made with the latest size.
Final fitting
After the first fitting is completed for 1-2 weeks, the custom-made clothes have all been completed. Guests can go to the store to try on the clothes for the last time and deliver them when they feel satisfied.
After-sales follow-up
After a few weeks of satisfactory delivery of customized clothes, we will contact the guests for timely follow-up to understand the effect of wearing customized clothes.
manufacturing technology of men's shirts
1. basic technology of ready-made clothes
*** * hand sewing technology
1. keyhole
hold the upper and lower layers together with the thumb and forefinger of the left hand, so as not to let the lower layer get out, and poke the needle tip out of the serifs by .15cm, let the sewing thread wrap around the needle, and then take out the needle.
2. Lock the round head
to the round head, and enlarge the needle distance appropriately. Each time, the poking needle and the pulling wire are aligned with the center of the circle * * * in the radial direction * * *, so that the round head locking lines are arranged evenly, neatly and radially.
3. Closing
After the last stitch on the right is finished, put the stitch through the first stitch lock coil on the left, poke it out of the lining barrier, and seal two lines at the tail end, then pass through the buttonholes and seal one line at the tail end, then fix the two lines of sealing, tie a knot on the back of the garment piece and pull the knot into the interlayer.
3. Buttons
Buttons usually have two types: practical buttons and decorative buttons. Practical button In order to make the clothes smooth and submissive after being buttoned, the stitching should be loosened so as to wrap around the button feet. The decorative buckle can be nailed as long as it is flat.
when nailing practical buttons, press the chalk thread to go down from the front of the garment piece, so that although the thread knot remains on the front, the thread knot is covered after nailing, but the dried noodles are bright and clean. The button usually adopts double thread, and the four-hole button can be nailed in the shape of "=" or "X". Usually, each pair of holes is tied twice, then the button is pulled away from the cloth surface by .3cm, and the button is wound several times from top to bottom until the cloth surface, and then the thread is led to the opposite side to tie a knot, and the knot is drawn into the interlayer.
*** sewing process
1. Preparation before sewing
* * * 1 * * Install the machine needle correctly
Before sewing, check whether the machine needle is bent, whether the needle tip is fluffy or dull, and if so, replace it. One side of the needle is flat, and one side is provided with a groove * * *, that is, a slot * * *. When loading the needle, one side of the slot should be placed on the left hand side of the needle, and the needle bar should be propped up, so as to install the needle straight and upright.
***2*** Properly install the bobbin and bobbin case
Install the bobbin on the bobbin rack for rewinding. When rewinding, the presser foot should be lifted, and the rewinding should be even and flat, not skewed or too full. Put the bobbin into the bobbin case, and when the thread is pulled out from the spring skin of the bobbin case, the bobbin should rotate clockwise, that is, the rotating direction of the bobbin is opposite to that of the spring skin of the bobbin case.
the notch of the shuttle shell is upward, and the shuttle latch is aimed at itself. Install the shuttle core and the shuttle shell on the rotating shaft, push it inward until you hear a click. Lift the shuttle shell latch and take it out, as shown in Figure 1-1-2.
* * * 3 * * Determine the stitch number and stitch distance
The thickness and stitch distance of machine needles are determined according to the thickness and efficiency of the sewn fabric. * * * See Table 1-2-1***. Under normal circumstances, when sewing thick fabrics, the needles should be thicker and the needle spacing should be larger; Sewing light fabrics, the needles should be thinner and the needle spacing should be smaller. Therefore, we should try sewing with broken materials before formal sewing, and then determine the needle distance and needle number.
***4*** Adjust the tightness of the bottom thread and the top thread
Sewing stitch * * * stitch * * * is formed by the engagement of the top thread and the bottom thread. If the tightness of the bottom line is suitable, the knot of the bottom line is between the two layers of material, and the stitch is even and tidy. If the bottom line is not well matched, not only is the stitch not beautiful enough, but sometimes there are signs of broken needles and jumpers. Therefore, before each computer pull series, you should first try the stitches with scraps, and then sew them when you are satisfied.
2. Sewing essentials and skills
* * 1 * * * Sewing posture
Align your body center with the needle position of the sewing machine, straighten your back muscles and sit on the stool.
* * * 2 * * gesture: the right hand slightly tightens the lower layer, aligns with the upper layer, and the left hand pushes it twice together. See figure 1-2-4.
* * * 3 * * Feet method: keep the left foot on the ground, stabilize the center of gravity, pedal the right foot, and control the jitter. After training, it will reach the level of one stitch.
***4*** Sewing joint: The width of the boring head is usually determined by how much sewing material is exposed at the right edge of the presser foot, because the distance from the machine needle to the right edge of the presser foot is .6cm, and if the sewing material is exposed at the edge of the presser foot by .2cm, the sewing joint is
3. Common sewing types
***1*** Flat sewing
. Sewing, trousers side seam and other parts.
***2*** Lapping seams
Fold the seams of two layers of clothes flat on each other, and stitch a seam in the middle
The method is as follows: first, the seams of the upper and lower layers are apart, the seams of the lower layer are large, and the seams of the upper layer are small. After stitching an inner seam, sit down the seam to one side, straighten the seam, and then press an open line on the front.
***4*** Wrapping seam
First, the back of the garment piece is combined, and the lower seam is wrapped around the upper layer, and one seam is made along the edge of the seam head, and then the seam head is seated down, and another seam is made on the front side of the garment piece. Usually, the lower seam head is released to the upper layer, and the seam head is caught around the bag, and then the seam is seated down, and a .8cm clearance is made on the front side. Outer seam is often used for jackets, etc.
***5*** Inner seaming
First, the front side of the garment piece should be combined, and the lower seam should be sewn on the upper side, then turned to the front side, and the seam should be sewn upside down, as shown in the figure. Usually, the lower seam should be released for .6cm to be wrapped on the upper side, and the wool should be caught along the seam, and then turned to the front side, and the seam should be sewn on the front side of the garment piece by .5cm. The inner seam is often used for boxers and so on.
***6*** hemming seam
A piece of clothing is refracted along the edge, and then a seam is made along the inner side. Usually, the shirt is 1.5cm wide at the folded edge, .7cm wide at the inner seam, and .1cm at the inner side. Hemming seams are often used at the bottom of shirts and skirts.
8. Come and go sewing
First, combine the back sides of the garment pieces, and sew a "coming" seam .3cm along the edge, then trim the seam head to make the front sides of the garment pieces meet, and sew a "going" seam .7cm along the edge, and wrap the "coming" seam so as not to expose hairs. Coming and going sewing is often used for thin clothes.
*** three * * * ironing process
1. Basic principles of ironing
The basic principle of ironing is to realize the thermal characterization of clothing by using the physical characteristics that fibers can expand and stretch in a hot and humid state and keep their shape after cooling. The process of ironing clothes can be summarized as follows: the water is quickly converted into steam by the heat of the iron, which penetrates into the raw materials neatly, so that the fibers are wetted, stretched and expanded, and under the action of heat, the clothes are no longer moved, and the clothes are ironed into the required appearance. Obviously, there are three elements in the ironing process: temperature, moisture and pressure.
2. The basic function of ironing
Ironing technology is an important means of garment making, which runs through the whole process of garment making. To sum up, it has the following five functions:
***1*** Pre-shrinking of raw materials
Before making clothes, the opposite and auxiliary materials are usually pre-shrunk, such as wool to be pre-shrunk in water, beautiful silk to be pre-shrunk in water, feather yarn to be pre-shrunk in water, etc., which are all related to ironing.
***2*** ironing adhesive lining
The use of adhesive lining is a great progress in garment making. How to use and iron adhesive lining well has added new content to ironing process. Temperature, pressure and time are the necessary conditions for ironing the adhesive lining. If the temperature is low, it will not stick firmly, and if the temperature is high, it will leak glue or the fabric will turn yellow. A certain pressure is conducive to the close adhesion of the surface and lining, and the iron will stay for a proper time to facilitate the full melting and penetration of the rubber particles. Non-woven lining should be padded with a piece of tissue paper when sticking and ironing, so as to prevent the iron from sticking with glue on the opposite side of the lining.
***3*** Button-ironing corners
In the process of garment making, the seams need to be separated and inverted, the corners of the pockets need to be square or round, the welting needs to be buckled and turned, and the seam stop needs to be thinned and flattened, all of which need the help of ironing technology.
***4*** Push, return and pull
The garment pieces have a certain three-dimensional shape after being shrunk or punched, but they can't meet the actual situation of the human body well. Taking advantage of the excellent characteristics that textile fibers, especially wool fibers, can stretch and expand in wet and hot state, and can keep this shape after cooling, some parts of the garment are pushed, pulled and pulled, commonly known as "push", "return" and "pull", such as "push the door" of suits and "pull the crotch" of trousers. Obviously, the clothes processed by pushing, returning and pulling can better conform to the shape of the human body, and it is naturally more beautiful and comfortable to wear.
* * * 5 * * Finishing
Finishing is the last process in the garment making process. People often say that "three points are done and seven points are hot", which is a bit exaggerated, but it also shows the importance of ironing. Ironing is not only ironing the uneven parts, but also making up and correcting the shortcomings in the garment making process to the maximum extent, ironing the open parts, stretching out the tight parts, ironing the chest round and full, ironing the general and the lapel to make the clothes flat, and ironing the hem and hem flat and straight.
2. The basic ironing method
***1*** Separate ironing
Separate ironing is to separate the combined seams to make the combined parts of the clothes flat and obedient. The method is to flatten the seam, brush it with water, separate the seam with your left hand, and gradually separate the sharp corner of the iron with your right hand, and then press it with the whole bottom of the iron. Separate ironing usually only needs flat ironing, but like the crotch of pants, tops? When sewing waist joints, sleeves and elbows, etc., it is necessary to stretch them properly when ironing. Then, where there is a fat potential in the upper section of the back seam, it needs to be slightly shrunk when ironing.
***2*** buckle ironing
buckle ironing is often used to buckle the Mao Kou of the seam before assembly. The method is to press the seam head down with the left hand, fold the edge while retreating, and gradually move forward with the sharp corner of the iron with the right hand to iron the folded seam edge flat and straight. The corner of the arc-shaped bag can be .5cm away from the edge, sewn by hand with a nano-needle, and then the seam head is drawn according to the net sample of the cardboard, and then the sharp corner of the iron is gradually reduced to shrinkage and ironing.
***3*** Pressing and ironing
Pressing and ironing are often used in the seam allowance of clothes, especially for thick fabrics. When ironing, you need to exert a strong force. Immediately after removing the iron, use a ruler or "hunchback" to press it again, so that the heat-shrinkable fiber can be cooled and shaped quickly, which is beneficial to thinning and flattening the seam allowance.
***4*** Pad ironing
Pad ironing is often used for jacket sleeves and pants crotch. When rolling and ironing the crotch of trousers, you can first turn the crotch upside down and buckle it on the iron stool, first spread the inner seam with the sharp corner of the iron and iron it flat, and then roll and iron the seam after folding and splicing, in order to make the inner and outer seams of the crotch consistent and make the appearance lines of the crotch seam smooth and smooth.
3. Precautions for ironing
* * * 1 * * It is necessary to know what material the dresser is ironing, what effect it has, what is the current temperature of the iron used, and whether the two match.
***2*** Ironing should be done on the reverse side of the fabric as far as possible. If ironing is to be done on the front side, it is generally necessary to cover the ironing cloth to avoid yellowing or auroras. Ironing cloth can be made of old cotton cloth, old sheets, old quilts, etc., and new cotton cloth must be washed away before use.
***3*** Electric irons can't iron clothes on wooden boards. This is because clothes lack room for fiber elongation under the pressure of irons and wooden boards, and some fibers will fall down to produce aurora. Therefore, the irons must be carried out on a padded ironing board. The mat can be made of double-layer cotton blanket covered with natural white fine cloth.
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