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Waiting for three thousand years, just for Ejina.
Ejina Banner, located in the west of Inner Mongolia, is home to a magical plant-Hu Yangshu and Hu Yangshu, which have a reputation of being unchanged for 3,000 years and immortal for 1,000 years! A thousand years after death! Immortality after a thousand years! Ejina Banner is one of the only three Populus euphratica forests in the world and the hometown of another Populus euphratica forest outside Aksu, Xinjiang. Unlike Aksu, this is Populus euphratica. Here, it is the most ideal place to watch and photograph Populus euphratica.
A "hero" made the names of Populus euphratica and Ejina Banner spread like wings. This remote place, together with the Ya Dan landform in Dunhuang and the Arrow and Bamboo Sea in Jiuzhaigou, has become a paradise for travelers and photographers. I also created many works in this beautiful place. In this magical and beautiful land called "green pure land", Populus euphratica called "living fossil" grows. The long national history, colorful scenery of Populus euphratica and the living customs of desert oasis herdsmen constitute Ejina's unique cultural heritage. Every year from the end of September to the mid-autumn of 10, bustling people from all over the country flock to witness the illusion of Populus euphratica, which will not die for a thousand years, will not fall after death, and will not rot after falling for a thousand years.
1. Where is Ejina? (Where is Egina?)
Ejina Banner is located at the westernmost end of Inner Mongolia Autonomous Region. Adjacent to Gansu Province in the southwest and Mongolia in the north, it is a border flag of ethnic minorities with Mongolian as the main body. The famous black cities of Juyan and Xixia in Han Dynasty have a long history and are brilliant. The vast desert is magnificent, and Populus euphratica is magical and beautiful in autumn, which complements the Jiayuguan and Jiuquan satellite launch bases, the western starting point of the Great Wall of Wan Li.
Second, the climate.
Ejina Banner belongs to the typical continental arid and extremely arid desert grassland climate in the northern temperate zone, with distinct seasons and large temperature difference between day and night.
Third, the best travel time.
The best time to enjoy Populus euphratica forest is autumn every year, and the best season to visit Populus euphratica forest in Ejina Banner is autumn from the end of September to the middle of 10/5 (September 25th -65438+ 10). It is suggested to avoid five days before the National Day, otherwise you can only visit people. Arrived on the 6th, few people, very comfortable. Ejina Banner is the birthplace of sandstorms in China, with dry climate, little rain all the year round and severe sandstorms. In spring, the sky is full of yellow sand. Only in September and June, 65438+1October every year, the weather is refreshing and there are few sandstorms, which is suitable for entering the desert hinterland. From the beginning of 10 to the middle of 10, the leaves of Populus euphratica are the brightest yellow. Autumn is the best time to travel to Alashan every year. In sunny weather, follow the camel team into the desert, and you can enjoy the desert oasis and magical fountains. The endless Populus euphratica forest fluctuates like waves, and the golden red leaves burn the world like fire, which is magnificent.
Fourth, the traffic situation (the most headache)
Located in the west of Lanzhou, you can walk from Anning Huangyangtou Toll Station, and from Tianshui Road Toll Station to Lianhuo Expressway in the east, with one stop to Zhangye.
train
Only one city in China has opened a train to Ejina, and that is Hohhot (21:10-12: 35).
plane
There is no direct flight to Ejina Banner. There is only one military airport. You can only go to the surrounding cities first, and then transfer to Ejina Banner by long-distance bus.
be self-drive
The self-driving route I planned for you: Starting from your city-Xi 'an-Yinchuan-Alashan Zuo Qi-Ejina Banner-Jiuquan-Jiayuguan-Zhangye-Lanzhou-Gannan-Huahu-Zoige-Chuanzhusi-Maoxian-Chengdu, you can see the most beautiful scenery on this route. Go on road trip is the first choice for Ejina Banner. You can stop to take photos at any time or come according to your own time.
Sages from other provinces turn (dizzy)
1) Lanzhou-Zhangye-Ejina: daily departure time 10. Arrive at 8: 30 pm, 10 hour. Try to go to Jiuquan by train or bus.
2) Lanzhou-Dunhuang-Jiuquan-Ejina: Take K9667 (17:19-08: 00) or K591(18: 41-09: 04.
Verb (short for verb) Accommodation conditions:
Ejina Banner is remote, with inconvenient transportation and poor accommodation conditions, but it can still meet the needs of ordinary travelers. There are many state-run hotels in Ejina Banner, such as Jiaotong Hotel in the long-distance station, Xinhua Hotel next to Xinhua Bookstore, Lu Tong Hotel opened by Highway Bureau, Changxin Hotel of Telecommunication Bureau, Postal Hotel next to Post Office and Ejina Hotel next to Military Camp. Depending on the situation, ranging from 10 yuan to 100 yuan, N times in peak season, using public toilets. In addition, it is strange that there are yurts near the forest, so you can live there. You need to bring your own sleeping bag to live in yurts.
Six, and catering related:
Ejina Banner is an oasis in the desert, and materials have to be brought in from the outside, so the diet is more expensive. Comparatively speaking, it is cheaper to grab mutton and sauce camel meat. Locals usually use camel meat as stuffing to make steamed stuffed buns or jiaozi. Camel meat in sauce tastes like beef in sauce. The beer is only western cold beer, and the white camel wine is very cheap, only 5 yuan. The staple food is noodle soup or Daoxiao Noodles. There are potato chips and tomatoes in the noodles, and a big bowl is 4 yuan, which is delicious. In Bayinhaote and Wuliji, you can buy some special products of Inner Mongolia, such as milk skin, cheese, milk cake and other dairy products.
Ejina Banner's diet is mainly beef, sheep, camel meat and pasta, while vegetables are few and expensive. Because there are many tourists in the peak season, eating becomes a problem. It takes patience to go to a restaurant for dinner, and sometimes you have to rob it! Recommended diet: 1. Iced apricot skin water, a cup of 2 yuan, similar to sour plum soup; 2. Hami melon, 10 yuan; 3. Imported Mongolian milk tea; . 4. handmade yogurt; 5. kebabs.
Seven, the tourist boutique route recommended by Hiroko.
East Line: Visit the first bridge Populus euphratica forest, the main venue of Populus euphratica Festival, Populus euphratica village, the shooting place of Hero, Erdaoqiao Populus euphratica forest, Tawangfu, herdsmen living in Mongolian camp and Sidaoqiao Populus euphratica forest.
Huyanglin in Mouse Nest, Huyanglin Reserve in Qidaoqiao, Desert Playground in Badaoqiao, Swan Lake (Yanze Ancient Residence) and Baiyutan Sha Feng.
Northern Line: Populus euphratica, Shenshu, Wolongshu Huyangjia, Baori Aobao, Juyanhai, the birthplace of sandstorm, and Ceke Port.
South Line: Ejina River scenery, beacon tower in Han Dynasty, Populus euphratica forest in Donghe Bridge, strange forest, Hongcheng in Han Dynasty, Erta Temple in Xixia, Wuta Temple, Datong City in Tang Dynasty, and Black Water City in Xixia Yuan Dynasty.
anatomize
1: Eastern Line (Comments: Shock, Temptation, Gouhun)
Bridge 1-8 is the core attraction of Populus euphratica forest. Go as far as possible to Swan Lake. A bridge: the Heihe River is around the city, with a moat beside the city and binjiang road by the river. Populus euphratica reflected in the water is the best place to shoot Populus euphratica. Erdaoqiao and Sidaoqiao are the shooting locations. Heroes, the Wind in the Sky and the Holy Land Ejina were all filmed here. Badao Bridge, connected with Badain Jaran Desert, is a holy place for shooting sunsets and sunrises: the undulating sand dunes in the distance are dyed golden by the sunset, and the camels lined up on the sand dunes and the camel bells ringing in the distance form a unique landscape. Go to Badao Bridge from Yinchuan in the morning, don't miss the sunset, and then go to Ejina Banner to find accommodation. )
2. the southern line (comment: vicissitudes. Sadness. Spectacular)
The southern line is Black City-Datong City-Wuta Temple-Red City-Strange Forest. Black City is the ancient city of Xixia, and now only the entrance twin towers, mosques and some ruins are left, and the atmosphere is very sad. The strange forest is a dead Populus euphratica forest, with the most spectacular scenery at sunrise and sunset.
3 North Line (Comments: The journey is long, the cost performance is not high, and those who have no time can give up. )
The northern line is Juyanhai, Shenshu and Zeke Port. The lake in Juyanhai has basically dried up, and Shenshu is a huge Hu Yangshu with a history of 880 years. Ticket price 10 yuan, I don't recommend going if I don't have time. However, the Hami melon fields on the northern line are very comfortable and you can pick them yourself.
Eight, matters needing attention
1. temperature: about 28 degrees during the day, with strong sunshine, so it is necessary to pay attention to sun protection and sand prevention, and it is about 2 degrees at night, with a large temperature difference. Generally speaking, the weather is sunny during the National Day, but sometimes it will be windy. You should bring some warm clothes.
2. Documents: Bring your ID card, driver's license and driving license. I'll check my files in Uligi.
3. Refueling: The distance from Wuliji to Ejina Banner is 356 kilometers, and there is basically no gas station along the way, so it must be filled in Wuliji.
4. Ejina Banner has a special self-driving camp, and it is more appropriate to adjust the temperature scale of sleeping bags to -8. It should be pointed out that for security reasons, the government does not allow camping in the sand.
Because the sand is loose, the car can't drive into the sand to play, otherwise it will get stuck in the sand and can't get out. Pay more attention when parking, and don't get too close to the sand.
6. North parking hotels basically need to pay parking fees. Everyone should be mentally prepared. Don't argue with others.
7. The taste in the north is salty, and people in restaurants have bad temper. Everyone needs to overcome it and calm down.
The autumn wind blew the green leaves of Populus euphratica into pure gold. Under the bright sky, the golden Populus euphratica forest is so beautiful in the deserted desert. The local government will irrigate the forest area around September 25th every year, so that Populus euphratica can present the most beautiful scenery to tourists during the 1 1 month Golden Week. By June 10 and June 15, with the arrival of the cold wind, the glory of a tree will become golden everywhere. When the leaves of Populus euphratica are gone and the beautiful scenery is gone, we have to wait for the next autumn.
The sun shines where it is needed, and the Millennium Populus euphratica makes a metallic call.
Moonlight shines in the corner where it should not appear, and the ruins of the Black City are cold and chilly with history.
Yang and Yue Er have always wanted to talk, but in fact, they have been sleeping on the weak river.
Strange forest statues are unearthed cultural relics.
The autumn wind is rustling, and the silent stone tablet bears witness to the selfless dedication of the people of all ethnic groups in Ejina to the aerospace cause of the motherland. When the train was running in weak water, Ejina's slow steps began to move.
In the dusty season, Ejina trudged with heavy Badain Jaran on his back. Under the high sky, a wave flew to Juyanhai, covering the whole dust in Ejina.
This barren land, which is famous for sandstorms, lacks not sunshine but rain, and all the cantaloupes planted grow into Juyan cantaloupes.
The wind blowing from the remote Badain Jaran dried many legends into stories and hung them in the holy land where Shenzhou took off for people to spread.
Populus euphratica species are generally distributed in northwest China, but only the patches of Populus euphratica forests on both sides of Tarim River and Ejina can attract people's attention. Especially the Populus euphratica forest in Ejina is not only because of its ups and downs of colorful and magnificent style, but also because it has experienced disasters that people can't understand, which makes people feel sad when they think about it.
When I was in Ejina, the spectacular scene of Populus euphratica forest and even the news that the Heihe River was cut off made me feel inexplicable pain. ......
In a strange forest, I heard the sequel to the legend of the black general: some soldiers waited for their loyal and beloved black general in a strange forest after breaking through the black city, and they would never leave until they saw the black general. In the long, sincere and persistent waiting, the soldiers gradually turned from hunger and longing into an upright Hu Yangshu, and finally into a strange forest.
When telling you this tragic legend, I clearly heard a solemn and distant call:
? There used to be a group of mighty warriors and dense green poplar forests here; It used to be an important part of the forest and Juyan oasis where wild animals and flowers were in full bloom. Like our comrades stationed here, it guards the frontier without regrets.
? Strange forest, Populus euphratica forest in hyperosmotic dehydration, stretches for hundreds of miles!
? Here, I have seen the ruthlessness of the old people in history and the true tears of Populus euphratica since ancient times;
? Here, you have to admit the eternal desert pride and see what is eternal winter;
? Here I am deeply attached to the call for spring and the yearning for green. ...
? I savor the cemeteries and tombstones created by lack of water; Taste the bones and toughness of Populus euphratica; Taste the sorrows and sorrows of Populus euphratica martyrs.
? I feel the deep memory and hard search of dead wood, and I feel the thirst and infatuation for ecology in distant legends; They shed the last drop of blood for mankind, and they warned all living things for mankind.
? Entering a strange forest, I saw the trunk upright or obliquely inserted or lying on other trees, or attacking or retreating, which was horrible and ferocious, just like entering a post-war battlefield, which was terrible.
? Entering the forest, the forest is strange and strange, like a ghost, which makes people nervous. The wind is wailing, like many women crying.
? Sorrow for strange forest, sigh for strange forest, complain for strange forest, cry for strange forest.
? I heard the screams of hordes, I saw the machine guns with fire, and I remembered Xu Chi's reportage "Tears of Populus euphratica".
? I have a more urgent expectation and a more complete understanding of water: water is not only the source of life, without water, life is not the only thing that dies.
? Nowadays, the exotic forest has become a tourist attraction.
? People look for it in strange forests, looking for the freshness and greenness of ancient times;
? People are walking in strange forests, and dignified thoughts are surging in their minds.
? People talk in strange forests, so that history and reality can talk silently;
? People marvel at strange forests and accuse the vastness of Gobi and the ruthlessness of nature.
? If you go into a strange forest alone, you are a symbol of courage; If you enter a strange forest at night, you will be faithful to love; If you dare to spend the night in the strange forest, you will be invincible.
? Walking into a strange forest, I walked into heavy and thinking;
? When you walk into a strange forest, you walk into the desert and the truth.
? When you enter a strange forest, you enter a distant war and an eternal soul.
? Strange forest, it's not strange.
? Strange forest, what have you left for mankind?
People cherish Populus euphratica forest because its existence is a miracle. Populus euphratica is a tree species that appears with the uplift of Qinghai-Tibet Plateau. Later, the discovery of Populus euphratica fossils in the middle of Paleogene strata in Xinjiang and Gansu proved this point, at least 65 million years ago.
Populus euphratica lives in desert areas for special reasons. After the uplift of the Qinghai-Tibet Plateau, the atmospheric circulation changed strongly, which led to the decrease of rainfall, the increase of evaporation, the change of geological landform and the gradual loss of living conditions in northwest China under the control of the westerly airflow in the arid inland. However, it is in such a harsh natural environment that Populus euphratica cleverly escaped the bad luck of species elimination and survived tenaciously.
Populus euphratica has a special way to fight against the harsh natural environment. It can put its roots deep into the ground a few meters to more than ten meters, and at the same time it can extend its roots into the distance in parallel, looking for a limited source of life, not only stubbornly living, but also passing on its descendants through the roots on the ground. In order to adapt to the environment, the leaves on the young branches of Populus euphratica are as narrow as willows, while the leaves on the adult branches are as round as poplars. That's it. Populus euphratica endured countless cold, heat, frost and cold rain, and formed teams with tall bodies to resist desert sandstorms and spread benefits for mankind. People also call Populus euphratica "the hero tree" and "the backbone of the desert", leaving the legend that Populus euphratica lived, died and fell for thousands of years.
Populus euphratica is the earliest resident of Ejina, which has been called Juyan Oasis since ancient times. It covered the land here with thick green shade, resisted the wind and sand, witnessed the vast sea and mulberry fields on earth, witnessed the Han civilization, Xixia civilization and Mengyuan civilization that appeared in this land successively ... Until now, it is still depicting the figure of pioneers who walked through the ancient Silk Road, telling the life movement played by the Ding Dong camel team when crossing the Gobi Desert, and crying that the dynasty struggle brought heartbreaking pain to this land. ......
War is bloody and brutal. War brings killing, destroys castles and hurts innocent Populus euphratica. At the beginning of the Ming Dynasty, a war broke out in the Black City surrounded by Populus euphratica. Man-made diversions in the war cut off diving and lowered the water level, resulting in Hu Yangshu in the Black City and Populus euphratica forest nearby drying up and lodging, and the ghost still lingered. Of course, it is precisely because there is no shelter for Populus euphratica. After the fire, the black city became a ruin and a place ravaged by sandstorms, and people will always mourn for it. ......
In fact, Populus euphratica still has a dull pain, which is something that happened in recent decades.
Historically, Ejina once owned more than 700,000 mu of Populus euphratica forest, which was an important barrier to prevent the Badain Jaran Desert from spreading northward. However, with the climate change and people's deforestation in the middle and upper reaches of the Heihe River, the irrigation area has been blindly increased. The Heihe River, which originated in Qilian Mountain, has been extended for an average of more than 200 days a year, and the Heihe River can no longer flow to Ejina and Juyanhai, resulting in a sharp deterioration of the ecology here, and the Gobi Desert has increased by more than 460 square kilometers. In this way, Ejina has become one of the main cradles of frequent sandstorms in northern China, which makes people in Beijing and Tianjin mention Ejina.
Does it hurt? Of course it hurts! When people lament that Populus euphratica is far away, I think people should perhaps lament human beings themselves. Populus euphratica also has life. In the face of cruel nature, people should cooperate with Populus euphratica to resist the invasion of sandstorms and reduce the harm of invasion. However, the greed of human beings makes people cold enough to kill another life and destroy their homes.
Perhaps loss will awaken a sense of protection and action. 10 years ago, in order to solve the ecological problems in Ejina Oasis, the state specially set up the Heihe River Basin Administration, and urgently started the inter-provincial unified dispatching of the mainstream of Heihe River, which made Populus euphratica in Ejina see hope, so the new green on the fallen dead trees of the Black City Strange Forest was so pitiful. ......
Populus euphratica is strong because it has a strong will; The beauty of Populus euphratica stems from its beautiful heart. Populus euphratica's requirements are not high, as long as people know kindness, it will give kindness in return, so with the improvement of water conservation ability, Populus euphratica in Ejina stood up again, standing on both sides of the river with its tall body and on the Gobi desert.
Yes, this is a tree species worthy of pride and admiration. It comes from ancient times, and its growth is closely related to phoenix and blood. It has unyielding pride and beautiful figure. When you come from Badain Jaran Desert, you will see that spring and summer are green, late autumn is golden and winter is brilliant red. ......
It has been raining all day, and it is dripping. Autumn in the south is autumn in Yi 'an, autumn in Li Yu and autumn in Rong Ruo. At dusk, dribs and drabs.
Don't say "worry", but the empty room gives birth to a sense of loneliness for no reason. Make a cup of hot tea and fight against time in a quiet place.
When I opened the page, a yellow leaf fell. That is a leaf of Populus euphratica brought back from Ejina. I put it in the book as a bookmark.
The leaves are withered, and the original color of life cannot be found. Following a clear vein, I think of that autumn, that autumn as beautiful as a fairy tale in Ejina. . .
Autumn in Ejina belongs to Populus euphratica forest. "Reading all over Populus euphratica, there are no trees in the world", what a heroic and high-profile language, Populus euphratica is well deserved.
When the car passed Jiuquan Aerospace City and sped on the way to Ejina, I couldn't restrain my inner joy and couldn't wait to see its magnificent autumn colors.
Eight thousand miles of clouds and the moon, across the Qian Shan, from the beautiful south of the Yangtze River to the desert, I like to date for a thousand years.
Weak water river, Hongchengzi, Xixia Black City Site and Juyanhai are all ancient and mysterious names. Populus euphratica is accompanied by them, and I think it must have irresistible charm.
I first met Populus euphratica in a strange forest. Although I have seen many photos of it from major travel magazines and heard many legends about it, I am a little surprised by such close contact.
In the afterglow of the sunset, the whole forest is like an ancient battlefield that has experienced a life-and-death struggle, with broken limbs and broken arms and bones. The smell of death gives people terror, loneliness, heaviness and depression.
The dead Populus euphratica is inclined, standing or falling, which explains a kind of courage, tenacity and fearlessness with their unique posture and silent language.
Some shouted at the sky, some bowed their heads silently, some were exhausted, some danced wildly, some were ferocious, some were hoarse ... The silhouette under the backlight was tragic and desolate.
I stroked these dead trees, and my heart was filled with awe. What kind of destruction you have to experience and what kind of perseverance you need to grow into such a strange bush.
Legend has it that it was born without death for a thousand years, died without falling for a thousand years, but it was immortal for a thousand years. Although no one can witness the whole process of its life, what I see is perseverance and struggle with fate.
How many rivers have been filled and how many battlements have been buried by ruthless sandstorms. And it, fighting its way out, lives tenaciously. Even if you die, don't let the yellow sand bury its clank and iron bones.
In 3,000 years, it has erected an indestructible monument between heaven and earth. Facing it is an epiphany to life.
Goodbye Populus euphratica, it's by the Blackwater River. The first bridge, the second bridge and the eighth bridge are all enchanting. It turns out that death, they are warriors or strong men. Born in a famous family, but so charming.
On that day, there was a big sandstorm in Ejina, and rustling leaves fell one after another. Blue sky, tall tree trunks, golden leaves, soft desert, and green river water of Heishui River.
Everywhere you go, there are trees, and each tree has its own unique personality, which exudes different charm from different angles and under different light. The variety is endless and poetic.
In a tree, I saw and photographed its past life. Young eyebrow-shaped pointed leaves, middle-aged peach-shaped round leaves, old dead branches. Three forms, * * * born * * long.
I was speechless in an instant and walked quietly on the wooden bridge, for fear that my clumsy steps would disturb their beauty. Several times, I suspected that I was dreaming.
I think this is a legend, a legend about Populus euphratica. Thousands of years of it and modern me, we will meet on this black water river, next to the wooden trestle.
A few years ago, I watched the film Hero directed by Zhang Yimou. Two women in red are fighting in a golden Populus euphratica forest, and the shooting point is Sidaoqiao. It felt so far away.
At the moment, I am painting. Look at its life in full bloom, its exciting colors and its dancing posture in the west wind. I know the beauty of Populus euphratica only lasts for more than ten days. Missing this season is another long year. Twilight is like water, and the wooden bridge winds, and we come to it again.
There are long guns and short guns everywhere and jackets everywhere. It turns out that they are as reluctant to give up as I am. Populus euphratica in the sunset is another kind of beauty.
It is better to watch a curtain call of life and appreciate its beautiful and wordless ending when it is in full bloom than to look at the natural beauty.
One leaf and one autumn, singing an elegy in the wind, completing the growth of an annual ring in the pain of falling.
Populus euphratica is a living fossil of plants, a miracle in the desert, an immortal legend of life and a gift from nature to the industrious people of Ejina.
Populus euphratica, as a spirit, always inspires us.
With the first cool breeze blowing, the Populus euphratica forest here unconsciously changed from thick green to light yellow and then to apricot yellow. At this time, standing on a high place, Populus euphratica rises and falls in autumn, like the tide and the golden ocean.
On the way from the big town to the port of Zeke, there is a thousand-year-old Populus euphratica called "holy tree" deep in the dense Populus euphratica forest. The tree is 23 meters high and needs six or seven people to join hands to enclose it. Known as the king of Populus euphratica. Within a few tens of meters nearby, there are several Hu Yangshu trees with different brawniness, which form a typical ecological model and are called "Mother and Son Tree". These Populus euphratica trees with connected crowns cover the sky and look spectacular from a distance, making them the most representative landscape of Populus euphratica forest in Ejina.
The patron saint tree is two wrinkled old people. I know that they are descendants of the Mongolian Turku Department who went through difficulties and obstacles and "returned to the east" from Wan Li on the Volga River. In Mongolian, Ejina means hometown, so the local Turks call Heihe River Ejina River and grassland Ejina Grassland. When I saw these two old people, they just sat there quietly with a pious face. I didn't speak, just sat down beside them silently, silently experiencing an ancient breath and the vicissitudes of time and space. ......
Yes, I think of the dead Populus euphratica near the ruins of Black City, and a cluster of lush Populus euphratica leaves growing on the branches at one end of the trunk that has been dead for thousands of years. That cluster of new leaves is tender and full of aura, giving people a breathtaking beauty in this desert Gobi.
Ejina, history is true, written on Populus euphratica and the desert. Maybe in a few years, I will be your story and you will be my legend. I thought a lot at that moment, and I even suddenly remembered a teacup. If I can't catch it, it will make a tragic sound when it falls on the concrete floor. For you, I am willing to wait three thousand years. ......
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