The development history of Hanfu in the Tang Dynasty?

Tang Dynasty costumes The reason why Tang Dynasty costumes are so colorful is due to many factors. First of all, the foundation was laid in the Sui Dynasty. The reign of the Sui Dynasty was short, but the silk weaving industry made great progress. It is recorded in the literature that Emperor Yang of the Sui Dynasty "decorated his traitors with rich crowns and costumes." Not only did he make his ministers and concubines wear gorgeous costumes, but even the ropes of the ships when traveling on the canal were made of silk. The trees on both sides of the bank decorated their willows with green silk. The flowers are tied with colorful silk, which shows the amazing silk production. By the Tang Dynasty, silk fabrics were produced all over the country, and both output and quality exceeded those of previous generations, thus providing a solid material foundation for the novelty and richness of Tang Dynasty clothing. In addition, he has extensive contacts with people of all nationalities in various countries and adopts a broad-minded attitude towards the cultures of various countries, integrating them with his own national costumes, thus being able to introduce countless novel and wonderful crown costumes.

There are a large number of colorful paintings depicting the Buddhist world in Dunhuang murals, including many images of flying fairies, heavenly beings, etc., which are very beautiful. If you look at the costumes of the Tang Dynasty, the most prosperous cultural period in Chinese history, you will find that they are very similar to the costumes of the heavenly beings in the murals. In fact, when the ancients respected morality and Taoism, respected gods and believed in Buddhism, some truths in the universe would be revealed to humans intentionally by gods. Everything that was beautiful and sacred was the standard for humans to pursue and imitate. It can be seen that clothing itself is a part of culture. , all have profound connotations behind them. In fact, for the people of the dynasty who emphasized virtue and good deeds, the universe will bring them all good things, including culture and beautiful costumes. Here we will give a brief introduction to some costumes of the Tang Dynasty. We hope that these truly beautiful costumes will bring them good things. Clothing can arouse people's thinking. Is the life of ancient people really not as good as ours today? Regular clothes: 1. Veiled, large-sleeved and plain clothes: It belongs to regular clothes. His hair is combed with a "high wall" hairpin and a large flower, a unique hairstyle of the Tang Dynasty, decorated with flower hairpins and walking steps, and his eyebrows are decorated with makeup. He is wearing an open collar and double-breasted coat, a bright coat with large sleeves, a long skirt, a large ribbon, and a soft belt. Wear small knots and wear high shoes. In the Tang Dynasty, this dress was used as outer clothing and became popular among noble ladies. 2. The half-sleeved shirt made by ladies in the Tang Dynasty: It is a unique popular dress in the Tang Dynasty. It was first worn for banquets and later also used as regular clothes. It was favored by concubines and celebrities. 3. Banquet dress for ladies in the Tang Dynasty: a tube top on the upper body, a tulle plain coat on the outside, and a long skirt on the bottom. The skirt reaches the waist of the chest, is narrow at the top and wide at the bottom, and ends with a soft belt and a small belt. It is a banquet house interior dress, but the hair is combed With the high bun and hairpin, this outfit can also be used as outerwear for everyday wear. After looking at these costumes, some people may think that the costumes at that time were also very open! In fact, in a society that pays attention to morality, people's behavior is also very standardized. In the history of China, it has always been said that men and women are different. Men have men's code of conduct, and women also have women's ethics. Among the hostesses, women generally take care of household chores at home and go out for rides. Even at family banquets, men and women sit separately. From this point of view, there is nothing wrong with these clothes being used as home clothes. It is conceivable that women in the Tang Dynasty dressed like this were actually very beautiful, and their lives were not as mechanically tense and full of pressure as modern women. Maybe many women are worried that they will be offended in this kind of relationship where the male is the outsider and the female is the inside. In fact, these worries are not artificial and can be solved by any method. I hope these beautiful clothes can arouse the insecurity in people's hearts now. Modern women's arrogant and kind nature enables them to enjoy women's beauty, dignity and tranquility. Most of the Tang clothing mentioned today refers to the Chinese clothing of overseas Chinese in Chinatowns abroad. It is generally an evolved clothing of the Qing Dynasty clothing. From the Sui Dynasty to the Tang Dynasty, ancient Chinese clothing developed into its heyday. Political stability, economic development, progress in production and textile technology, and frequent foreign exchanges promoted the unprecedented prosperity of clothing. Clothing styles, colors, patterns, etc. all presented an unprecedented new situation. , and the women's clothing of this period can be said to be the most exciting chapter in Chinese clothing. The rich and gorgeous crowns and costumes, and the bizarre and complicated decorations are all dazzling. The image of women's clothing in the Tang Dynasty for more than 200 years can be mainly divided into three types of supporting clothing: skirt clothing, men's clothing, and Hu clothing. The following is described in detail with the help of ancient books, poems and paintings.

"New Book of Tang Dynasty: Li Shizhuan" records, "I heard that there are two golden birds and brocade robes in the ban. In the past, Emperor Xuanzong was lucky enough to wear the hot springs and Yang Guifei's clothes." "It can be seen from this that it was quite common for women to imitate men's clothing and wear men's clothing at that time. 3. Hufu Hufu From the early Tang Dynasty to the prosperous Tang Dynasty, the northern nomadic Xiongnu, Khitan, and Uighurs had many contacts with the Central Plains. In addition, the camel caravans on the Silk Road There is an endless stream of people, which has a great influence on the costumes of the Tang Dynasty. The so-called Hu people are a derogatory name for the northern peoples. When we talk about history, we have the right to retain the culture that came with the Hu people, especially the Hu people. Hufu---this kind of ethnic costume, which includes elements from many ethnic groups such as India and Persia, was refreshing to women in the Tang Dynasty. As a result, a strong wind-like fever for Hufu swept through cities in the Central Plains, especially Chang'an and Luoyang. The ornaments are also the most exotic. Yuan Zhen's poem: "Since Hu Qi's smoke and dust have spread all over the land, women have learned Hu makeup from Hu's wives, and their skills have entered Hu's music and Hu's music... Hu Yin, Hu Qi and Hu Zhuang has been here for fifty years. "Xuanzong of the Tang Dynasty loved Hu dance and Hu music. Yang Guifei and An Lushan were both experts in Hu dance. The "Nancy Clothes and Feather Clothes Dance" in Bai Juyi's "Song of Everlasting Sorrow" is a kind of Hu dance. There are also Huntuo dance, withered branch dance, The Hu Xuan Dance and other arts had a great influence on Han music, dance, costumes and other artistic categories. It is also conceivable that the exciting scene of "all the concubines learning the dance" was recorded in Yao Runeng's "The Deeds of An Lushan". Notes: "In the early days of Tianbao, the nobles, tourists, and common people wore good clothes and hats, while women wore hairpins and swung their hair when they walked, and the clothes were made of narrow sleeves. "The image of women wearing Hufu may be seen in stone carvings and other ancient monuments. The more typical ones are wearing a hat, a narrow-sleeved, tight-fitting lapel robe, trousers, and high-waisted boots. "Yu Fu Zhi" It is said that "after Zhongzong, there were men wearing clothes and boots like Xi and Khitan clothes", which should be this kind of attire. 4. Crown uniform system The Tang Dynasty was an era of highly developed politics and economy in our country, and a prosperous culture and art. It was a splendid feudal culture. A glorious era. The Tang Dynasty unified the chaotic and divided states of the Wei, Jin, Southern and Northern Dynasties and the Sui Dynasty, established a unified and powerful country, developed foreign trade, and greatly developed productivity. The country was peaceful and the people were peaceful for a long time, especially when the Tang Dynasty became the center of economic and cultural exchanges among various Asian nations. The central period is the most glorious page in the history of Chinese culture. This period absorbed Indian and Iranian culture and integrated it into Chinese culture, including murals, stone carvings, sculptures, calligraphy, paintings, silk embroidery, pottery figurines and clothing. , fully reflected. In the Sui and Tang Dynasties, the most obvious feature of Chinese clothing was the dual-track system. In normal times, the traditional clothes of the Han people were worn in the Tang Dynasty. Unification, economic prosperity, more open styles, and more and more gorgeous clothing. The characteristics of women's clothing in the Tang Dynasty are the unification of skirts, shirts, and skirts. Among women, there is an image of bare breasts and arms. There is a mural on the east wall of Princess Yongtai's tomb. The image of a Tang Dynasty woman with a high bun, exposed breasts, red silk draped over her shoulders, a yellow narrow-sleeved blouse, a green floor-length skirt, and a red belt hanging from her waist, thus "half-hidden suspicion of pink breasts" and " We have a more vivid understanding of "when you are sitting, your belt is lingering in the grass, when you are walking, your skirt is sweeping away plum blossoms". Slowly tied skirts with half exposed breasts are not something that everyone can do. In the Tang Dynasty, only those with status could wear them. Princess Yongtai could wear half-breasted shirts, and singers could wear half-breasted clothes to please the ruling class, but women from common people were not allowed to wear half-breasted clothes. At that time, the half-breasted skirts of the Tang Dynasty were somewhat similar to modern Western evening dresses. , but the shoulders and back are not allowed to be exposed. The collars of women's clothing in the Tang Dynasty include round collars, square collars, slant collars, straight collars and sweetheart collars. The characteristic of long skirts is that the waist is tied higher. Above the waist, some are even tied under the armpits, giving people a pretty and slender look.

The sixth grade is made of yellow (lemon yellow) double-plated (geometric pattern) silk, and the belt is made of rhinoceros hooks. The seventh rank is made of green tortoise shell, double giant, and ten-flower (all geometric patterns) damask, and the belt is silver buckle. The ninth rank is made of cyan silk cloth, and the belt is made of jade stone hook. During the period from 627 to 649, the four sides were pacified and the country was prosperous. He proposed to practice martial arts and cultivate literature, advocated civilized governance, awarded ministers the title of virtue, and made more detailed regulations on the colors of official uniforms.

According to the "New Book of Tang Dynasty·Cars and Clothes Records", the robes of the third and above grades were purple, tied with gold and jade belts, and the thirteenth kuai (a hanging belt mounted on the belt, which also served as a decoration). The fourth grade robe is deep crimson and has an eleven gold belt. The fifth-grade robe is light crimson and has a ten-piece gold belt. The sixth-grade robe is dark green, with nine silver belts. The seventh-grade robe is light green, with nine silver belts. The eighth-grade robe is dark green, the ninth-grade robe is light blue, and the jade belt has eight talons. Foreign officials and common people were allowed to wear yellow, with seven copper and iron belts. (In the first year of the General Chapter, foreign officials and common people were prohibited from wearing yellow, as mentioned above) In the second year of Longshuo (AD 662), Emperor Gaozong of the Tang Dynasty, the robes of the Eighth Grade were changed to green because they were afraid that the robes of the Eighth Grade would be dark green and purple (in ancient times, indigo was used for many times to dye the dark blue and reddish light, so they were afraid of mixing with purple). Since Duke Huan of Qi (reigned from 685 BC to 643 BC) wore purple robes during the Spring and Autumn Period, the color pattern of clothing with purple as the top grade was determined, and it remained unchanged until the Song and Yuan Dynasties. It was replaced by bright red in the Ming Dynasty. "New Book of Tang Dynasty·Cars and Clothes" records the styles of civilian official uniforms, including the luan with a long ribbon, the crane with the Ganoderma lucidum, the magpie with the auspicious grass, the wild goose with the majestic ceremony, the handsome falcon with the flower, the rehmannia with the cross branches, etc. The clothing color system stipulated by the Tang Dynasty government could not be completely implemented in real life. In May of the fifth year of Xianheng, Emperor Gaozong of the Tang Dynasty (i.e., the first year of Shangyuan, AD 674), foreign officials and common people wore short shirts and jackets of red, purple, blue, green and other colors under their robes, or wore these colors in public in the countryside. robes, so a ban was issued. The uniforms and colors of military attachés in the Tang Dynasty stipulated that for military officers of the third rank and above, the left and right Wuwei guards should wear tigers, the left and right leopards should wear leopards, the left and right eagles should wear eagles, the left and right jade guards should wear falcons, and the left and right Jinwu guards should face chi. The kings also decorated the dragon and the deer, the prime minister decorated the phoenix pond, and the minister decorated the pair of wild geese. Later, it was stipulated that the Qianniu guard should be decorated with Rui Niu, the left and right guards should be decorated with Ruima, the Xiao guard should be decorated with tiger, the Wu guard should be decorated with eagle, the Wei guard should be decorated with leopard, the leading guard should be decorated with Baize, the Jinwu guard should be decorated with warding off evil spirits, and the prison guard should be decorated with lion. In the sixth year of Taihe in the Tang Dynasty, he was allowed to wear falcons holding auspicious grass, geese holding ribbons, and pairs of peacock silk coats for those with grades above three. These patterns are all embroidered, and according to Tang Dynasty clothing styles, they should generally be embroidered on the chest, back or shoulder sleeves. In the Tang Dynasty, those who galloped on the battlefield were all light cavalry wearing horse armor and no armor. Infantry armor accounted for 60% of the infantry. "Liu Dian of the Tang Dynasty" records that there were 13 types of armor in the Tang Dynasty, namely Mingguang armor, Guangxi armor, Fine scale armor, Shanwen armor, Black hammer armor, white cloth armor, soap and silk armor, cloth back armor, infantry armor, leather armor, wood armor, chain mail armor, and horse armor. Chain armor is the chain armor mentioned in Cao Zhi's table. "Book of Jin: Biography of Lu Guang" records that when Lu Guang of the former Qin Dynasty attacked Kucha City, he saw that the armor of the armies of the Western Regions were like chains and could not be penetrated. During the Sui and Tang Dynasties, the Kang State of the Western Regions attacked the Central Plains. The imperial court paid tribute to this type of armor. In the Tang Dynasty, this kind of armor was divided into three types: large, medium and small, and they were assigned to warriors according to their body size. The "Tang Liudian" Arsenal Order records the types of bows, knives and armors, and the shield was renamed Peng Pai, with 6 types in total, namely rattan Pai, Tuan Pai, lacquer Pai, wooden Pai, jointed wooden Pai and leather Pai. It is noted that the rattan, Tuan, lacquer and wood are all made in ancient times. 5. Big-sleeved shirts in the Tang Dynasty: In the Tang Dynasty, it was also popular for women to wear "Hu clothes". "Hufu" is the clothing of people from the Western Regions. The form of the belt is also deeply influenced by Hufu. Before this, people's waist ornaments were made of gold, silver, copper and iron. At this time, it was popular to wear a "bucket belt" with gold ornaments and a short and small belt for fastening things. This kind of belt was most popular in the Tang Dynasty, and was used until the Northern Song Dynasty. After the prosperous Tang Dynasty, the influence of Hu clothing gradually weakened, and the styles of women's clothing became increasingly broad. In the middle and late Tang Dynasty, this feature became more obvious. In general women's clothing, the sleeve width was often more than four feet. The aristocratic dresses of the middle and late Tang Dynasty were generally worn on important occasions. When wearing this kind of dress, there were gold and green hairpins in the hair, so it was also called "tin-hairpin dress". After Emperor Gaozong of the Tang Dynasty, purple was used as the uniform color for third-rank officials; light crimson was the color for fifth-rank officials, dark green was the color for sixth-rank officials, light green was the color for seventh-rank officials, dark cyan was the color for eighth-rank officials, and light green was the color for eighth-rank officials. Cyan is the color of the uniforms of the ninth-rank officials, and yellow is the color of the uniforms of people outside the palace and common people. Tang suit also has a great influence on neighboring countries. For example, the Japanese kimono has greatly absorbed the essence of the Tang suit in terms of color, and the Korean suit has also inherited the advantages of the Tang suit in form. Tang suit skirts have long and soft lines, are very graceful and free, and are mainly made of silk fabrics. Therefore, its clothes are famous for their "softness" and "rejoice".

The Tang suit itself has many categories and is adaptable to change. It boldly absorbs the characteristics of foreign costumes from appearance to decoration. It mostly refers to the costumes of Central Asia, India, Iran, Persia, and the foreign costumes of the northern and western regions. It enriches the costume culture of the Tang Dynasty and makes the costumes of the Tang Dynasty rich and colorful. Magnificent, unique and colorful in style, it has become a wonder among Chinese historical costumes and attracted the attention of the world. The clothing patterns of the Tang Dynasty changed the past creative thinking based on the divine right of genius, and used real flowers, grass, fish, and insects for sketching. However, the traditional dragon and phoenix patterns were not rejected. This was also influenced by the divine right of the emperor. decided. At this time, the design of clothing patterns tended to express free, plump and fat artistic styles. The clothing patterns in the late Tang Dynasty were more exquisite and beautiful. The flower and bird clothing patterns, edge patterns, and flower patterns on the soft silk clothing are really a cluster of flowers, competing for beauty and beauty. As Wang Jian of the Five Dynasties said: "The leaves of the Luo shirt are heavily embroidered, with a cluster of golden phoenixes and silver geese each dancing in two directions. Among them are the words "Long Live Peace". Today, these luxurious and beautiful clothing patterns we see are the result of painters' work. The Dunhuang Grottoes used hard work to preserve precious image materials for future generations. The development of clothing in the Tang Dynasty was an overall development. At this time, the design of clothing patterns tended to express freedom, fullness, gorgeousness, and roundness. The expressions in shoes, hats, scarves, jade pendants, hairstyles, makeup, and jewelry all illustrate this Features. The Tang Dynasty inherited the styles of the Zhou, Warring States, and Wei and Jin periods, integrating the rigor of the Zhou Dynasty's clothing pattern design, the stretch of the Warring States period, the brightness of the Han Dynasty, and the elegance of the Wei and Jin Dynasties. On this basis, it was more luxurious, making it Clothing and clothing patterns reached a historical peak; the influence of Tang Dynasty clothing and clothing patterns on future generations continues to this day. The use of branch-tangled patterns in modern clothing patterns demonstrates the connotation resulting from the combination of traditional patterns and modern aesthetic consciousness. 6. Summary The costumes of the Tang Dynasty, especially women's costumes, were not only admired by people at that time, but even today people feel extremely excited when looking at the costumes of the Tang Dynasty. There is no pretense or pretense here. What is displayed in front of people are costumes that are full of vitality, exciting and intoxicating. The colors are not overwhelming, and all kinds of bright colors compete with each other. They are not willing to be sparse and lonely. Coupled with the mixture of gold and silver, it becomes more dazzling to the eyes. Its decorative patterns all include pairs of birds and animals, clusters of flowers, auspicious light and full of life and interest. It can be said to be a grand scene of the Tang Dynasty.