Classification of jacquard weave types

1. Judging from the looms used, there are two differences in production between large jacquard looms and small jacquard looms. First of all, jacquard looms use taps instead of brown frames.

Heald line

halftone

A complex combination of brown silk; Second, jacquard pattern curtains are generally very long. If there are n weft yarns in a jacquard loop, there must be n pattern plates, and there must be a special bracket wall chart table curtain. It is important to wear a model. If the front and back of the pattern are wrong or the left and right ends are adjusted, the wrong pattern will be woven, and it is very troublesome to find the wrong pattern. The bracket of the hanging curtain is generally arranged above the loom together with the jacquard faucet.

Generally, there are at most 24 holes on the small jacquard board, which are used to control the jacquard and weft selection of the brown frame respectively. A large lifting diamond plate has thousands of holes, corresponding to the number of needles on the jacquard faucet. Each hole position is aligned with a needle to control whether to raise brown, and one hole position controls the movement of several warp yarns, which are one or several of each flower in the whole fabric. The principle is that warp yarns with the same trajectory can be hung on a hook through their own healds. If the quantity is too much, which exceeds the load-bearing capacity of the hooks, you can consider sharing it with more hooks. In many cases, the comprehensive number hanging on the hook is the number of flowers in the whole cloth.

Their information transmission process is pattern plate-pattern needle-hook-heald-heald-warp.

The advanced computerized jacquard machine equipped with jacquard faucet can save the trouble of arranging a pile of jacquard plates to run.

At the same time, the time from design to start-up is greatly shortened, it is easy to modify and the efficiency is greatly improved, but the equipment investment is much higher, often ten times or more than that of ordinary machines.

Jacquard fabrics, like ordinary fabrics, can only make limited yarn count and density, and not all patterns can be raised. Because it is jacquard, the warp yarns have many different knitting structures, and may have different knitting compactness, so that the tension of the warp yarns will be uneven during the knitting process. If the tension is slight, it can be produced, and the surface of the fabric is uneven or prone to star jumping.

If it is serious, it is impossible to weave, or the weaving efficiency is very low, which is accompanied by many defects.

This requires that the production feasibility should be fully considered when designing jacquard technology, mainly depending on the structure of flowers and ground parts, the size of some jacquard blocks and whether the flowers are evenly distributed on the cloth surface.

According to these factors, the technicians of the factory will estimate the production difficulty of a variety for the reference of the business department when quoting and taking orders. The factory will give up when it comes to varieties that are too difficult to produce.

The common jacquard method is to weave the positive and negative weaves of flowers and the ground respectively, or similar weaves, such as straight cross, 3/ 1 to 1/3 flowers, 3/ 1 to 2/2 flowers, 2/ 1 to/0/2 flowers, or flowers.

When the weave structure between the flowers and the ground is not tight, such as plain jacquard fabric, it is best to have linear patterns and distribute them evenly on the cloth surface, so that each warp yarn experiences the same or similar interweaving points.

If this is not possible, we can consider double warp beams or triple warp beams, arrange the warp yarns with similar tension on the same warp beam and pull the warp yarns with different lengths respectively.

Large jacquard machines are generally divided into 1400 stitches, 1800 stitches, 2240 stitches, 2400 stitches, 2800 stitches and 3700 stitches. 2400 stitches and 1400 stitches are the most common, and it is easier to make big patterns with more stitches. The 2400-needle machine is basically.

Weft loops are related to the warp density and the number of needles in the fabric. If all warp weaves do not repeat in a cycle, the maximum number of warp yarns in this flower is the number of needles. Combining the warp and weft density of the fabric, we can know how wide the flower shape can be, so the factory is more concerned about weft returning.

If there is a jacquard fabric with specifications of 50x50, 144x80, the flower shape is a vertical ellipse, and the warp and weft loops are the length and diameter of the ellipse respectively. If it is made of 2400-needle jacquard, the maximum size of weft return can be calculated as: 2400X2/ 144=33_, which means that the widest flower-shaped ellipse is 33_.

5_ wide.

The characteristic of jacquard weave is that the number of warp and weft yarns in a weave cycle is generally counted as dry, and most of them use one weave as the ground weave and the other weave as the pattern.

It is also useful to use different internal and external weaves and different colors of warp and weft to show a large number of color patterns on the fabric surface.

Large pattern fabrics must be woven on jacquard loom.

Jacquard can be divided into simple jacquard and complex jacquard. The former uses a warp yarn and a weft yarn, and uses the original weave and small jacquard to form patterns.

The latter has more than one warp or weft, and adopts double-layer weave, double-layer weave, towel weave, leno weave, etc. Alone or combined with other tissues to form a large pattern tissue.

Many jacquard fabrics in jacquard towels, carpets and silk fabrics are woven with large patterns.

Jacquard Jacquard is the same as Jacquard Jacquard. Both warp and weft are lifted and floated on the cloth surface. Although the machine used is different from jacquard, it is difficult to strictly distinguish jacquard from jacquard in terms of the size of flowers. In addition, it is difficult to distinguish the thickness of yarn count and the pattern change law. So the most reasonable and simple way is to see what machine to weave. If you use a common loom and add some jacquard devices, such as faucet lattice, to make products.

The cloth woven by a big jacquard machine is a big jacquard machine. A big jacquard machine can make a small jacquard machine, but a small jacquard machine can't produce a big jacquard machine.

Small jacquard patterns are generally satin series, herringbone series and their changing structures, diamonds, geometric figures, etc., mostly warp jacquard patterns.

Second, from the knitting principle, the weft-knitted jacquard weft knitting machine can also make different sizes of jacquard, also known as "large pattern weave".

It is made by knitting a yarn pad on a knitting needle selected according to the pattern requirements.

Jacquard can be formed in weft-knitted or warp-knitted single-sided or double-sided knitted fabrics.

Weft-knitted jacquard fabric is composed of two or more knitting systems, which weave a jacquard stitch row.

Each looping system loops only on those needles selected according to the pattern requirements-non-looping needles do not work-new yarns are not put on these needles-old loops are not taken off from these needles-jacquard loops are taken off on newly formed loops until the next looping system performs looping.

The tricolor jacquard fabric of weft-knitted tricolor jacquard fabric consists of three knitting systems, knitting a jacquard loop row.

Among them, red _ black _ white threads are woven in the loop system of 1_2_3 respectively, so that the front surface is composed of three color threads, and the back surface is composed of two color threads arranged at intervals.

There are many kinds of weft-knitted jacquard. According to the structure, it can be divided into single side and double side. According to color, it can be divided into monochrome and multicolor.

Single-sided jacquard can be divided into uniform jacquard and uneven jacquard according to whether the coil size is the same or not. Uneven jacquard is widely used in socks and coat fabrics.

Double-sided jacquard can be divided into complete jacquard and incomplete jacquard according to weave structure.

In each knitting system, the weave formed by all the dial needles participating in reverse knitting is called complete jacquard weave, and the weave formed by every other dial needle participating in knitting is called incomplete jacquard weave.

Incomplete jacquard commonly used in production has clear patterns, stable structure and small extensibility and detachability.

The pattern of weft-knitted jacquard knitted fabric can be changed at will within a certain range, and it is widely used in various coats and decorative articles.

Warp-knitted jacquard fabric refers to the structure in which some needles fall off without padding during the knitting process of warp knitting machine, forming elongated loops.

When this kind of tissue is formed, the guide bar does not penetrate completely, and the needles corresponding to the empty godets are not stuffed and closed, so new yarns are not stuffed on these needles, and old loops are not taken off from these needles, thus forming elongated loops.

Embossed plate is often used in warp knitting jacquard to prevent needle selection from closing. The notch of the pattern pressing plate must correspond to the empty guide needle in the guide bar. At the same time, the pattern pressing plate must cooperate with the guide rod and move horizontally together.

Warp-knitted jacquard fabrics are widely used in clothing and decorations.

Shuttle jacquard is a kind of jacquard woven by shuttle loom or silk loom according to the principle of warp and weft interweaving.

There are many specific varieties, which are mainly divided into two categories: 1) cotton products: cotton jacquard, rayon jacquard, pure ramie jacquard, single-sided computer jacquard, single-sided computer double mercerized jacquard, stretch jacquard, polyester-cotton jacquard and polyester-viscose interwoven jacquard.

, cut velvet jacquard, brocade jacquard, terry computer jacquard, cotton silk jacquard, denim jacquard, polyester jacquard, cotton elastic jacquard, cotton combed jacquard, cotton yarn-dyed jacquard, general anesthesia jacquard, dyed jacquard, rayon yarn-dyed jacquard and double-sided computer jacquard.

Silk-cotton interwoven jacquard, chenille jacquard, linen jacquard, linen-cotton interwoven jacquard and viscose blended jacquard are mainly used in clothing, decorative items and bedding.

2) Products with filament as the main raw material: all kinds of jacquard silk, satin, brocade, silk, spinning and so on. Brocade, brocade, silk products, etc.

Silk fabrics can make fine patterns, such as silk portraits, silk landscapes, flowers and birds on jacquard quilts, dragons and phoenixes, etc. , mostly used in clothing, bedding and decorative items.