Introduction of oil swirl dishes

According to legend, three brothers Xu Shi learned it in Nanjing during their southern tour in Qing Dynasty (now Qihe County). The oil swirl in the south tastes very sweet. After the Xu brothers came to Jinan, they changed the taste of the oil spiral to salty according to the dietary characteristics of northerners, which has been passed down to this day.

Yang Xiaolu by Gu Zhong in Qing Dynasty recorded the making of oil swirl: "Oil swirl is re-entered and rolled out by oil-forming agent. Add oil forming agent and roll for seven times. The stove is branded and beautiful. " It is said that Fengjilou in Jinan during the Daoguang period was an early shop that operated oil whirl. Yuan Wensheng Restaurant opened in Guangxu period 20 years ago, and was once famous for its many local snacks such as oil whirlwind. In the early years of the Republic of China, there were more than a dozen shops in Jinan dealing in oil whirling, which became a national snack at that time. At present, the only craftsman in Jinan who can make a true biography of oil spin is Su Jianglin, 69. His master, Geng, was a cook in the restaurant when he was young.

Follow the teacher/master

In Su Jianglin's memory, his teacher Geng is a simple, kind and serious teacher. After Master Geng came out of Wen Sheng Garden, he operated an oil spinner near Beiyang Grand Theater. 1956, Jinan held the city's famous food conference, which selected the oil skimmer made by Master Geng. After the meeting, Master Geng was transferred to the famous Jufengde Hotel in Jinan at that time. A few months later, Su Jianglin also came to Jufengde and began to learn to make oil spins with Master Geng.

Master Geng taught Su Jianglin to study and work in strict accordance with the way the master taught his disciples in those days. Su Jianglin had just turned 65,438+08. Usually, I basically do coke smashing, preparing ingredients, mixing noodles and other chores. Su Jianglin recalled that the stove for baking oil spinners was different. It was a square brick round stove, and it was burning inside. First, put the unformed oil skimmer on the frying pan for baking, then grease both sides and put it on the inner wall of the furnace for baking. After the oil swirl is baked, put your hand into the fire to take out the hot oil swirl, and don't touch the hot furnace wall with your arm.

When Su Qiang Gang Lin began to study, he was not proficient. If you are not careful, your arm will be branded with red blisters by the high temperature furnace wall, sometimes it hurts so much that you can't wear long-sleeved clothes. Master Geng often said to Su Jianglin, "If you want to learn oil spinning well, you can't be afraid of hardship. That's how I survived when I learned my craft. As long as you are willing to work hard, you can naturally master it flexibly after a long time. " A year later, Su Jianglin, who worked hard at internal skills, became Master Geng's "closed disciple". Under the witness of all the staff of Jufengde, both the master and the apprentice signed an apprenticeship agreement in an ancient way.

Strive tirelessly for improvement.

During 1990, Su Jianglin went to Hangzhou to participate in the national famous snack exhibition on behalf of Shandong. His on-site oil-spinning, shoulder-back sesame seed cake and small crispy sesame seed cake (the latter two snacks were once famous in Jinan and are now on the verge of extinction) have been well received by many critical southern judges. Su Jianglin not only learned round oil swirl, egg oil swirl and horseshoe oil swirl from his master, but also created peach oil swirl himself.

Su Jianglin said that it is most important to make oil whirl and flour, and the mixing amount of flour in four seasons is different. After finishing the oil spin, we should achieve "three lights (hand light, basin light and surface light)", that is, the hardness and viscosity of the surface are just right, the hands and basins are clean, and even a little extra surface cannot be left. When Su Jianglin played oil spinning, the reporter could hear the rolling pin in his hand beating the chopping board from time to time and making a rhythmic "thump" sound. Master Su said it was called "Dian", which was handed down by the older generation of oil spinning artists. Because the oiler's workshop is in the house, the oiler never shouts. Stay close and don't shout. When the "old foodies" hear a little crisp and pleasant sound, they know that the oil press is almost ready, and many old customers will come and buy it.

Although the small oil swirl looks inconspicuous, the production process is not simple. This kind of thin cake is made of dough as thin as 60 layers of newspapers. No wonder some customers like peeling layer by layer. Earlier, old Jinan people liked to drink bowls of rice noodles or wonton when they ate oil swirl. For half a century, rice noodle shops, large and small, have gradually declined. Since the 1950s, there have been fewer and fewer people playing oil spinning in Jinan. Later, only two or three shops such as Jufengde were still engaged in oil spinning. Su Jianglin said that some old Jinan people who grew up eating oil spinning wheels told him that they occasionally met self-employed people pushing tricycles to sell oil spinning wheels on the street, but their oil spinning wheels were not only tasteless, but also difficult to bite, "and they couldn't fall off the road 12."

Teach and inherit

Su Jianglin said that the business of Jufengde Oil Spinning is very good, basically selling as much as possible. Even in the difficult period of people's life in the 1960s, the demand for oil spinning of sweet potato noodles was still in short supply. In addition to retail, the oil swirl of Jufengde Hotel has always been a signature pastry for foreign guests in the store. When Prince Sihanouk came to Jinan, he went to Jufengde to taste the oil swirl. Unfortunately, Geng died in the 1980s. 1992, Su Jianglin retired and left Jufengde. He said that on the day he went home, what he wanted most was the jujube chopping block that had followed him for many years. Su Jianglin has been moping since he came home. Su Jianglin said that for decades, he has taught more than a dozen disciples to play oil spinning, but none of them satisfied him. He hasn't signed an apprentice yet.

Su Jianglin said that he can't watch the craftsmanship that has been passed down for more than a century be destroyed in his own hands. Later, he and his wife opened an oil spinning workshop in an alley opposite the old department store in quancheng road. The fragrant onion and crisp sound often crowded the alley. One day, a middle-aged man who came to buy a spinning machine told Master Su that his father went to Taiwan Province Province in the 1940s. When he went back to visit relatives in Jinan a few months ago, he almost searched half of Jinan but failed to eat the oil press he remembered as a teenager. If his father is lucky, he will be very satisfied when he visits his home next time. Su Jianglin has always insisted on "teacher training" and never sold oil spinning overnight. He said, "You should eat the oil while it is hot. The freshly baked oil swirl is the best. If you sell an oil spin that hardens overnight, it's equivalent to smashing your own brand.

"In 2000, when quancheng road was rebuilt, Su Jianglin's oil spinning workshop in Hutong was demolished. In order to revitalize the famous snacks in the store, the manager of Jufengde Hotel invited Su Jianglin back to the store. Su Jianglin, who is close to ancient times, said that his three children have no intention of inheriting his father's business, and no one in the shop has learned from him in a down-to-earth manner. Many of his former apprentices suspected that "learning to spin oil is to make less money" and changed careers one after another. Su Jianglin said that as long as he is alive, he will play oil spinning for a day. He is worried that if one day he can't do oil spinning, the traditional oil spinning skills in Jinan will be lost, which is his most distressing thing.

However, the peak turns and the flowers bloom brilliantly. 20 14 is a year that makes Mr. Song Lao feel comfortable, because the old craft finally has a black hair inheritor, and he can also eat the authentic "Su's Oil Swirl" in Jinan. From March 1 1, Su Jianglin, the 80-year-old head of Su's oil spinning, officially passed on the skill of making oil spinning to his grandson Nie Shuheng. "I learned the craft from the master, and I can't let this craft be destroyed in my hands. Nowadays, many young people are unwilling to study. My grandson can have this heart and wants to inherit this craft. I am willing to teach him. " The old man Su Jianglin said with a smile that he was very happy when he thought that his craft was followed.

suggestion

1958 that day, Su Jianglin will never forget it. That morning, he was busy in the shop as usual, and suddenly the shop received an urgent notice that the epidemic prevention department was coming to check the hygiene. The staff of Jinan epidemic prevention station came to the store with large and small testing instruments at the first time. Two lesbians in white coats not only examined the oil, salt, onion and other ingredients used in oil spinning, but also studied the hands of Su Jianglin and Master Geng for a long time with a microscope. Su Jianglin later learned that it was testing the bacteria on their hands. After the inspection, the manager said that there were guests waiting to take the oil thrower. Just then, two middle-aged people in Chinese tunic suit entered the room and stood behind Su Jianglin and Master Geng. Su Jianglin was surprised that the two "customers" never said a word and kept their eyes on them. Soon, 20 oil rollers were made, and the two carefully wrapped each oil roller in transparent plastic paper before leaving. 10 minutes later, the manager rushed in and panted, "Your Majesty has great news for you. Do you know that the Oil Whirlwind you just played is for Chairman Mao who is visiting Jinan? " Su Jianglin said not to mention how happy he was at that time. On that day, the whole party in Fengde was filled with joyful atmosphere. Su Jianglin later heard that Chairman Mao lived only four roads away from Jufengde. Ji Xianlin, the academic leader and master of Chinese studies, was born in Linqing, Shandong. Ji Lao left his hometown at the age of six and went to Jinan to go to his uncle. He went to private schools in Jinan, primary and secondary schools, and then went to Beijing to go to college. Life in Jinan left an indelible mark on Ji Lao. Ji Lao mentioned his hometown and Jinan in many essays such as My Childhood, Moonlight at Home with how bright! .

Ji Lao likes to eat the special snack of Jinan-oil swirl. Professor Cai Degui is very careful. He goes to Beijing almost once a month. Every time he comes to see Ji Lao, he specially orders oil spinning machines from Jinan, prepares them in the morning and arrives in Beijing at noon, so that Ji Lao can eat them on the same day. This has become a fixed "topic" for Professor Cai every time he goes to Beijing. Considering the health of the old man, he always tells the shop to put less salt.

Ji Lao was very satisfied with the snacks in his hometown, and also wrote an inscription for Zhangdian, which made the oil swirl: "Soft and crisp, oily."