Dojo Hill, manjuji and Duobao Pagoda: Perhaps the most scenic spots in Huzhou.

I visited Daochang Mountain in Huzhou. After coming back, I feel that the relevant historical and cultural background is too complicated and the information is too large. I don't know how to remember that trip. After grinding for a week, I almost threw up. Finally, I made up my mind to end it. It took three days, but it turned out to be a whole piece of foot binding. Helpless.

Dojo Hill, manjuji and Duobao Pagoda: Perhaps the most scenic spots in Huzhou (I)

@ Tieshan Qingshi (laughing alone) [Narrator]

May 2020 14, Duobao Pagoda in Daochangbang Village, Daochangshan manjuji, south of Huzhou City.

Recently I stayed in Huzhou for some reasons. From May 8th, I will visit one or two places in Huzhou city and suburbs every day. I have been to Wushenmen Village, Jinguaishan Ancient Plum Blossom Temple (Chunyang Palace), Xiajiacheng Ruins, Fengshengmen (Park), Fei Ying Tower (Park), Pangong Bridge, Chenmu and Lianhuazhuang (Lianhuazhuang Park).

What I want to say is that in these seven days, today is the most satisfying day for me. There are two main reasons: First, manjuji and Duopagodas not only have stories to listen to, but also have things to see, especially manjuji, which is majestic and profound (worthy of being called "the first scene in Huzhou" and one of the "Five Mountains and Ten Temples" Zen temples recognized by the Southern Song Dynasty court); Second, the road up the mountain, which is dominated by two ancient roads, makes me sweat profusely, which is both incisive and refreshing (this undoubtedly benefits from the outstanding natural ecological environment and air of Dojo Mountain). In this way, I think I can solemnly recommend Dojo Mountain to friends who have the opportunity to visit Huzhou.

The top of the Dojo is at the foot of the mountain, from the top to the valley.

I come from a mountain cave, but I still love this mountain enough.

The vicious lake is white, and the green hills suddenly become a dragon and snake plate.

There is no wind on the high mountain, and the sound is loose, mistaking the stone teeth for rapids.

Monks don't let the mountain spring out, and the bottom of the house is clear and the pool is illuminated by Yao seats.

Incense enters the clouds in front of the steps, and immortals plant themselves in the middle of the month.

Looking back at Cui Yun, Biwa Zhu Lan is ethereal.

White paddy fields ask for directions, and rivers and mountains are deep.

A master reads at night, and so far the mountain crane sings at midnight.

I gave up my studies today and didn't go back to the mountain. In the mountains, I sighed at the empty wine.

This is Su Shi's ancient poem Heshan on Dojo Mountain. The reason why I quote the whole poem here is because I have read this ancient poem recently and I am obsessed with Dojo Mountain. At the same time, I saw a Dojo poem written by Zhao Mengfu for the grandson of my eldest brother Zhao Mengfu (Yin Di) on Sohu of Minglu Bookstore. Although at first reading, Su Shi failed to fully understand the description of the benefits of Dojo Mountain and He Shan (namely Jin Gai Mountain, also known as He Shan because He Jie, the satrap of the Eastern Jin Dynasty, once opened a reading hall on the mountain), the third and fourth sentences "I come from a cave of mountains and rivers, but I still love this mountain enough" are still well understood (it is said that the place name of "Love Mountain" in Huzhou City came from this). I'm glad that I finally made up my mind to pursue the peak.

Why is this ancient poem by Su Shi sung by Dojo Hill and He Shan? Presumably, in Su Shi's eyes, Dojo Mountain and He Shan are two places of interest that are integrated into one, and in fact they are exactly the same. Daochang Mountain is opposite to rivers and mountains, and both are part of the residual vein extending north of DongTianmu Mountain. What do the first two sentences mean "where is the foot of the top of the Dojo"? It goes up to the top of the mountain and down to the valley. ”？ In this regard, Jiatai's Wu Xingzhi in the Southern Song Dynasty explained that "Dojo Mountain is better than the top of the mountain, and rivers and mountains are better than the foot of the mountain", and quoted Wang Zao, a writer in the Southern Song Dynasty, as saying: "Those who visit Dojo are like entering the house of princes and crossing rivers and mountains, like building a hermit's house." "The lake is white and long, and the green hills suddenly become a dragon and snake plate." What these two sentences say is that the lake city area is full of "white as the eye can see" lakes at first sight (before the "reclamation around the lake" in the 1960s and 1970s, Bilang Lake overlooking the top of the Dojo was vast, and it should be "white as the eye can see"), but Dojo Mountain and rivers and mountains suddenly appeared in front of us like a "dragon snake dish". Then three or six sentences describe the knowledge and experience of Dojo Mountain and explain why I "love" and "can't get enough of it".

"Looking back at Cui Yun from the mountain, Biwa Zhu Lan is ethereal." This is what I saw when I went down to Dojo Mountain. "Baishuitou asks for directions, and rivers and mountains are deep." It means asking for directions in Wushenmen Village at the foot of the mountain to learn how to get to the rivers and mountains, because there is an original Zhenzhen River connection between Gumeihuaguan and Wushenmen Village (this river is said to have been opened by Sun Quzhen, the 24th Quyuan who was called "the chief historian of Penglai without me" at the end of the Eastern Han Dynasty. It was originally a time when he was practicing in Jin Gai Mountain, but now it only leads to the tourist road of Jin Gai Mountain where the stone archway in Gumei Mountain Villa is located). "The master learns at night, so far the mountain crane rings in the middle of the night." This should refer to He Jie, the satrap of the Eastern Jin Dynasty, who once opened a reading library on Mount Jin Gai. "I gave up my studies and didn't go back to the mountains, sighing in the mountains." The word "mountain" in these last two sentences means that the former refers to Jin Gai Mountain and the latter refers to Dojo Mountain.

Alas, I seem to be reading this ancient poem. Let's get down to business. It should be said that I went to Dojo Hill and Duobao Pagoda, not manjuji. Dojo Hill is 5 kilometers south of Huzhou City, with an area of about 8 square kilometers, and the highest peak is 2 10.7 meters above sea level. According to Hongzhi's Huzhouzhi in the Ming Dynasty, Dojo Mountain is "a unique place in Xing Wu, with beautiful peaks and lush water and rocks", so "all tourists from ancient and modern times come here". However, The Official History of Huzhou in the Wanli Period of Ming Dynasty lists Dawn of Dojo as the first of the eight scenic spots in Xing Wu (the other seven scenic spots are Qingqiu in Cangge, fishing in the evening of the race, Changyan in summer, Yungui in Longdong, Mulan in Hengshan, Rain in Nanhu and Jinguiyun in sequence, among which Longdong refers to Qingqiu in Cangge).

When I went to Wushenmen Village to see the ancient plum blossom view of Jin Gai Mountain, the ruins of Xiacheng Mountain and Suwan Village to find Bilang Lake, I had already taken the No.307 bus twice, which took almost one to an hour and a half. So when I went back to Auto Parts City Station and took the No.307 bus to Daochang Mountain, I felt very familiar. I got off at Manjuji Station, which was six stops. Manjuji was standing in Dojo State Village. When I got there, there was a road sign guiding me to the entrance of manjuji. At the entrance of the ancient road, there is a stone archway inscribed by Zhao Puchu, and the words "Millennium Temple" on the back correspond to the name of manjuji on the forehead. The ancient road is not only quiet, but also lonely, with both ancient flavor and wild interest, and it feels quite enjoyable.

The ancient road stops halfway up the mountain (in fact, the distance to the top of the mountain is one third), and then you have to take the Panshan Highway. It is worth mentioning that there is a "Guanghao Pavilion" built in the Republic of China (1933) (it is said that there are ten pavilions on the ancient road, and Guanghao Pavilion is the latest one). I walked from the ancient road to Panshan Highway. When I saw this pavilion, I saw a white car parked in front of me. The first thing that catches your eye is the word "flying empty". Then I turned to the pavilion and saw the words "famous mountains and rivers, beautiful scenery". At the same time, the couplets on the pavilion columns on both sides also aroused my interest. They said: The tourists at the foot of the Dojo fell in love with the lonely pavilion in a shower, and they met Guiyun Nenghua Crane (the author signed "Wang Kun Garden") by the Bilang Lake. Then turn from the back of the pavilion to the front of the pavilion, and you will see the name of the pavilion on the back of the "Famous Mountain". The couplets on the pavilion pillars on both sides are: If you want no regrets, cultivate yourself first, and each has its own reasons (the author signed "Arbitrary Li Weiheng").

Then I met a man and a woman going down the mountain, and I asked the man if he could go up the pagoda. The man said it was closed, so he could only go up a little, just ahead. I think even if I can only go a little further, I will go up, so I continue to go up ... When I get to the periphery of manjuji, the first thing I see is the closed Tianwang Hall and the old man who is dozing in front of the temple. I thought to myself, "it's closed", and then I said a few words to the old man in a greeting way. I said that many temples are closed now, and the Tiefo Temple in the city is closed, so I have to look around the temples and see what the buildings look like. He also replied to me, but didn't tell me whether manjuji was open (of course, I didn't ask him). Later, in the process of "visiting the temple", I found the main entrance of manjuji (the name of the temple was also inscribed by Zhao Puchu), and there was an open door, just like saying that "this temple is lenient to believers and tourists", which really made me overjoyed!

In this way, when I entered manjuji, the first thing I noticed was the many pagodas at the top of the Dojo above the temple building. I began to look at them with trepidation, fearing that someone would come out and drive me away. As a result, none of the people I met were monks. A middle-aged woman should be a temple logistics staff and two young men should be tourists. In the meantime, I met two young men and a squirrel was screaming. I'm a little surprised. I thought it was a crow and said to myself, "What's that noise?" A young man told me that the squirrel was being chased by a cat. I immediately saw the squirrel strutting around the old tree in despair, but I didn't see the cat.

(unfinished)

Dojo Hill, manjuji and Duobao Pagoda: Perhaps the most scenic spots in Huzhou (Part Two)

@ Tieshan Qingshi (laughing alone) [Narrator]

(continued)

The main buildings I first saw in manjuji were Daxiong Hall, followed by Drum Tower and Great Compassion Hall, Release Pond, Dizang Hall, Guanyin Hall and Tongyuan Hall, followed by Galatia Hall and God of Wealth Temple, Wanfo Hall and Manjusri Hall, Four Pagodas of Monk's Tomb, Shengquan Pavilion and Mu Ying Ancient Well ... During this period, my feeling was that these main buildings were very important in distribution and coordination besides their own characteristics.

At the same time, it is most worth mentioning that the ancient well in Mu Ying (covered with a "Shengquan Pavilion") is located on the east side of the temple, not far from the entrance of Dengduo Pagoda, because there is a legend behind it. There is a shrine embedded in the stone wall next to the well, engraved with the words "Yingmu ancient well", and a couplet is engraved on both sides, which reads: "Yingmu was opened in the Tang Dynasty, and springs were built after the light." According to legend, at the end of the Tang Dynasty, when Zen master Ru Ne first built a temple, he begged for wood because of the steep peak and impassable road. He persuaded the Dragon King of the East China Sea to help dig wells and transport firewood, and it was completed overnight.

By the way, I need a brief overview of the history of manjuji. Dojo Mountain manjuji was built in the late Tang Dynasty, and its founder was a Zen master like Ne (because the tiger in Dojo Mountain was subdued at the beginning of the mountain without being angry and arrogant, it was later called "Zen Master Hu Rune"). In the Five Dynasties, King Qian Liu of wuyue inscribed "Zhengzhen Temple in Xing Wu", which was renamed as "Miaojue Temple" in the early years of the Northern Song Dynasty, and was given to him later. In the mid-Southern Song Dynasty, it became one of the "Five Mountains and Ten Temples" (ranking second among the "Ten Temples"). Destroyed by soldiers at the end of Yuan Dynasty, it will be rebuilt at the beginning of Ming Dynasty. In the mid-Qing Dynasty, a copy of Long Zang (the Qing Yi Xiu Da Zang Jing), which was engraved by the imperial court, was presented in Tibet. In the late Qing Dynasty, it was destroyed by a fire. At the end of the Qing Dynasty, another volume of "Long Zang" was presented and rebuilt. It took more than 50 years to recover to the previous scale. Today, manjuji has been restored by 1984 for fifteen years. Manjuji is not only the peak of incense, but also full of disasters.

Due to accidental negligence, I didn't go to the back of the Ursa major, nor did I do a carpet search. Therefore, I didn't see the Thousand Buddha Pavilion, the Tibetan Scripture Building, the Dharma Hall, the Abbot Building, the Ancestral Hall, and the Yaochi, Dongpo Xiyan Lake, which are said to be located in the northeast of the temple, and the stone carvings for praying for the New Year. In particular, the inscription for praying for the New Year, which reflects the situation that the supreme governor of Huzhou Road, the great scholar Huachi, boarded Dojo Mountain at the end of the Yuan Dynasty to pray for a bumper harvest for the people, is said to be one of the two major monuments of Dojo Mountain, also known as Gu Jing in Mu Ying. June 2008+10 just became a national key cultural relics protection unit, but it's a pity not to see it. I took a look at the photos taken by netizens, and they were indeed "well-preserved, with clear handwriting" as the official introduction, and the calligraphy felt "vigorous and powerful, coming and going in and out of Yan Liu".

Besides, Tianwang Temple is facing dozens of stone steps, and I didn't investigate what the road is under the stone steps, so I missed the Dongpo Ancient Road (I don't know what it has to do with the ancient road) which is said to be Su Shi's ascent to the mountain, and the Hufu Pavilion rebuilt by the rune of the Millennium Zen master (and Hufuyan is said to be halfway to the top of the mountain on the east side of the Tibetan Scripture Building, about a few hundred steps away from the temple, but I didn't see it either). These are the consequences of not doing enough homework. I regret it afterwards, but at the same time, I feel that there is no need to blame myself, because the historical and cultural background of manjuji is too complicated and the amount of information is too large, so it is really difficult for it to be absorbed by the subsystem and completely digested.

At the same time, I suddenly realized that when I visited manjuji, my heart was not calm enough (a little nervous, a little impatient), which should be the main culprit of my carelessness. When I was in a hurry to climb to the top of the mountain to see many pagodas, I really found the ancient well in Mu Ying after coming down from the top of the mountain. Afterwards, I thought to myself, if I even missed the ancient well in Mu Ying, I really don't know what I saw after grinding in manjuji for a long time.

At that time, I felt that I had "visited" manjuji, so I continued to climb the mountain from the entrance of the found Dengduo Pagoda (the sign is an archway with the word "Prajna" on my forehead and "diligence" on the back). This is the experience of the second ancient road. Compared with the ancient road from the foot of the mountain to the Panshan Highway, it feels that this ancient road is longer, the stone steps are steeper, brighter and more transparent, and less secluded. The most distinctive thing is that you can see the green slate engraved with lotus leaves on the road near the top of the mountain. There was a shabby pavilion on the way, which didn't look very particular, but it was quite folkway. On the side facing the top of the mountain, two words (not lettering) are written, saying: sit in the pavilion and catch up with the new, and see the world at the top. "Looking at the world" and "getting rid of the old and absorbing the new" are not right, obviously not done by experts. There are four sentences posted on the beam on one side of the pavilion, which are quite right. They said: good intentions are rewarded, family relations are rewarded, and they are calm, and they will change when they are finished.

Near the top of the mountain, there is a brand-new "Ma Ting" (I feel that it is not appropriate to compare stopping and panting to "Ma Ting", which lacks ancient meaning), overlooking a large area extended by the Dojo Bang Village, and the view is very good (so you can actually see this pavilion when you look up at many pagodas on the road at the foot of the mountain). The pavilion is casually engraved with "secular" and "evil" on the rocks where you can sit and lie on the top of the mountain. When mating, I stopped to catch my breath and chatted casually, and I met two young men from Guizhou (younger than the two I met in manjuji). To my surprise, the two boys didn't reach the top of the mountain in the end. When I came down from the top of the mountain, they had disappeared.

At the summit, I first saw the plaque of "Buddha's Light and Purple Society" on the side of the pagoda, and then I saw the pagoda with seven floors and eight sides, and there was a pagoda on it, which was exquisite, handsome and straight, beautiful and dignified. Reminiscent of the multi-pagoda, also known as the pen tower, the lake pen with the same name as Huimo, Xuan paper and Duanyan comes from Huzhou, which really fits. It is said that these pagodas have always been regarded as two symbols of Huzhou context together with the ancient well of white marble dug by Tiefo Temple in the middle of Ming Dynasty.

Duobaota, commonly known as Dojo Pagoda, was built in the early Northern Song Dynasty, overhauled in the middle and late Ming Dynasty, and rebuilt in the middle and late Qing Dynasty. Since the late Qing Dynasty, due to disrepair, all the eaves of the tower collapsed, leaving only a few rafters outside the tower. Today's multi-tower was rebuilt by 1988. The stupa is made of brick and wood, and the outer eight sides are square. Under the overhanging eaves, upturned eaves and wind overhanging eaves on each floor. The seven-story iron-cast pagoda is 33 meters high, and the outer wall at the bottom is 1.98 meters wide.

During this period, there is a legendary story about many pagodas. According to Huzhou local chronicles, Huzhou never won the top prize in Tang Dynasty and Northern Song Dynasty. Monks in manjuji think that there is no person in Huzhou who is the best in the world, because Dojo Mountain is a mountain of writing, which is lower than other states, so it is so extraordinary to build a pagoda by alms. This year is the sixth year of Xining in the Northern Song Dynasty (1073). The monk said: In another 30 years, Huzhou will be the champion. Results In Daguan, Zhenghe and Ugly years of Northern Song Dynasty, two students in Huzhou successively won the first prize. Moreover, from then on to the Jiajing period of the Ming Dynasty, in every ugly year, Huzhou had people ranked in the top. Of course, this may be just a coincidence, but it has made many pagodas famous.

I saw a Manjusri Hall in manjuji before, but I didn't expect there was another one on the top of the mountain. I suspect that this Manjusri Hall is dedicated to "sideline". Because on one side of the pagoda, there is a small wooden sign on the ground, which reads: "Thanks to Manjusri Bodhisattva, wisdom will enter from here".

Looking around from the side of many pagodas, you can have a panoramic view of the lake city. It is said that if you look north on a clear day with high visibility, you can still vaguely see Taihu Lake. This is also a big advantage of Dojo Hill as "the first venue in Huzhou". I think Su Shi's "love" and "lack of appreciation" for Dojo Mountain is not only the beauty of temples in the mountain, including "the mountain is getting better every day", but also a decisive key factor (a netizen in Huzhou said in an American article that "Dojo Mountain should be the hometown mountain of Huzhou people", which is obviously related to climbing Dojo Mountain and overlooking the whole lake city). In the process of climbing the mountain and reaching the top, the sky was clear, but after reaching the top, there seemed to be no sun (only the sky was not cloudy), and I met two crows (? ), screaming above my head and flying around the pagoda several times made me a little uncomfortable. But on the whole, this trip to Dojo Mountain made my whole body and mind feel a kind of pleasure of both gain and release, and I think I can go to a place like Dojo Mountain again if I have the chance.

When I came down from the top of the mountain to mate, I met two mature men. After greeting, I realized that they were foreigners working in Huzhou. I said to one of them, "I'm a foreigner, too", so I smiled at him. When collecting information about Dojo Mountain, manjuji and Duobao Pagoda, I once saw a Huzhou netizen say with a little regret that most Huzhou people go to Ren Huang Mountain instead of Dojo Mountain on weekends and holidays, thinking that this may be true. Take the Panshan Highway from manjuji. I didn't know until I reached the foot of the mountain that the entrance of Panshan Highway was in Nanbang, Daochangbang Village, very close to the 307 bus stop.

(May 2, 20201to 23)

June 2020 18

On June 9, 2020, I went to Daochang Mountain in the south of the city, because I accompanied four friends from Hangzhou to wander around Huzhou (because one or two friends had difficulty climbing the ancient road, they never reached the top to see the pagoda called Futu). I visited the scenic spots inside and outside Wanshou Temple, including the Hufu Pavilion ("Old Road of His Royal Highness the King of Heaven on Dongpo outside the Temple"), the Abbot Tower, the Tibetan Scripture Building, the Yaoxi Pool, the Xiyan Lake on Dongpo, the Ganquan Pavilion, the stone carving for praying for the New Year (on the Manchurian side outside the Temple), the column carving of "Lake Pen gives birth to flowers" (Panshan Highway outside the Temple) and so on. There is another stone tablet near the outer Manchuria side of the temple, which is called "Praying for the New Year".

In addition, I accidentally saw the article "Anti-Japanese War in Daochang Mountain, Huzhou" on the Sina blog of netizen Xu. The first paragraph says: There is a hidden cave on the left side of Dojo Hill Pagoda, and its underground storage hall is dedicated to the memorial tablet of "Dojo Hill was killed in the Anti-Japanese War", which is turned over to pay homage to Gui Jun 2 1 Seventh Army, 170. There are also two pairs in front of the spirit tablet: "Chinese sons and daughters are loyal to the war of resistance, and 800 soldiers protect the mountain gods." "Heroes become red with blood, and the top lotus blooms as a Buddha."

In other words, the "Dizang Hall" next to the Dojo Hill at most is also dedicated to the memorial tablet of "Guangxi Army soldiers who died in Dojo Hill during War of Resistance against Japanese Aggression". /kloc-I didn't know this when I climbed Dojo Mountain in May, and I didn't see the "Shiwai Zhai" on the top of the mountain. -Well, is the so-called "King Earth Treasure Hall" the "Manjusri Hall"? If so, then I saw it, but I didn't open the door. At that time, I also suspected that Manjusri Hall was specialized in "sideline", which was really disrespectful! It is hereby recorded.